[W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues

[Tad Heckaman]

On 12/11/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

>

>  Tad Heckaman wrote:

>

> Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 3

> when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if

> thats normal.

>

> A few other issues...

> Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the

> antenna to do anything?

> ... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new one in?

> Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and theres

> fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or something. The

> pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is almost full.

>

>

> Tad:

>

> I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

>

> Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be

> operational to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the antenna.

> Does your 82 have an Antenna switch for mast height in the console?  I'd

> pull the radio and check to see if the harness at rear is plugged in and

> getting power.  If you choose to keep the original radio there is a source

> that handles the Becker head unit and associated amps and fader repairs.  If

> you choose to replace with an aftermarket, this list will jump to life with

> all sorts of recommendations.

>


I wouldn't mind keeping the existing radio, kinda looks cool with all the
buttons on it. :)
I assume that to pull the radio I will have to remove some panels? I really
need to get a book on this car. From what it sounds like it has a separate
amp for the speakers... I wouldn't mind bypassing the entire radio and just
attach my ipod directly to the amp. Is that possible? Don't really need the
radio, although I should fix it sometime. I guess the ultimate fix for me
would be a small hidden audio jack somewhere that when plugged in, would
override the radio and allow me to play mp3s directly to the amp. Quality
would be better too.
Am I way out in left field here with the way I understand how the audio
system works?


I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses are

> plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly behind the ic.

> The clock is the first and easiest power source to check back there.  It's a

> single lead providing continuous +12vdc that attaches to a spade lug on the

> clock segment.  Check voltage between this lead and one of the ground

> points.  See what you get before working the ic repairs.

>


Well, I can hear the clock ticking, it just doesnt move very quickly, or at
all.

Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend some

> serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is equally likely the

> cam shafts and rockers have seen better days.  If on the other hand the dual

> chain conversion has been done I'd next inspect the chain rails and tips of

> the sprockets.  Look for cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of sprockets should

> not have sharp pointed edges, should be smooth with some meat at the tips to

> round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes for galling.  If the cams are

> galled the rockers are galled as well (rockers not easily viewed without

> light and mirror).  I have wet lapped a few cam lobes and replaced the

> respective rockers to eliminate a miss and a tick but, once the metals have

> started to go (scoring/galling) you are looking at more machine work or the

> need to replace the cams (about $800 each) plus the rockers (short money).

> Again, I'd hold up on doing too much until you see the history on that

> engine from the dealer.

>

Still waiting on a reply from the dealer, I am hoping all this has been
done.



Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may be plugged

> with sediment, you will instantly need a new seal/grommet for the reservoir

> where the pump is seated.  So, I'd have one or two (headlamp washer line if

> equipped) ready when you do this fix.  You'll need to pull the battery and

> that's a good time to repair the batt tray and inspect underneath for

> corrosion or damage to the sway bar fitting that sits under the tray.  New

> tray is <$20US.

>

> Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse power

> (380 US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer lasting motor with

> less dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500 (US 184 hp) IMHO.

> Preference on a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if you can find one.

>


How much does one of those engines cost normally? I assume its higher than
rebuilding/fixing up the old engine. But then, I would get more HP, which
cant hurt anything but gas mileage. :)

-\Dick

>

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>

>



-- 
Tad Heckaman
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