[W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues

[Dick Spellman]

Hi Tad:

Yes you need the cd-rom MB manual for the 126 chassis and you need the 
free Super Nervig Index that makes navigating the manual fast and easy.  
This group can walk you through any one of the elements you need to fix 
and I'd go on to say that when you pull something like the radio it's 
the right time to test all of the vacuum elements with that new 
MightyVac, check the vacuum switchng valve, replace the fiber node lamp 
behind their that lights up many of your switches and more.  So, pick a 
project and ask away.

I have cut (2) copies of the manual in recent days one for another 
mbcoupe type in Easton, MA and well, a spare.  If you live in the states 
and provide an address there is no telling what might show up in the mail.

BTW: I run an 83 380SEC and I am sitting on a pristine 500 motor for 
transplant because I've done all those inspections I laid out in the 
earlier post and I am facing a major repair job with cam shafts and 
more.  In my case the 500 motor was a bargain ($1 plus the cost of Acela 
train and lunch) and I drove the 500SEL beast 200+ miles from near 
Philly to Boston where it sits awaiting my attention.

Other thoughts...the electric heated washer nozzles may be fouled with 
car wax.  Just use a fine pin tip to clear each chrome nozzle (2 jets in 
each).  Clock...if you hear ticking but, it does not keep time, then 
it's (2) capacitors from Radio Shack (<$3) to fix.  Still need to 
investigate why other portions of the cluster are not operational.  
There is a kit for repairing the odometer gear yourself if needed.  
Pretty sure it's the same company that resells the seat belt arm 
presenter gears.

Dick

I naturally concur with Bellamy.  These are classics.Tad Heckaman wrote:

>

>

> On 12/11/06, *Dick Spellman* <spell.yy at verizon.net 

> <mailto:spell.yy at verizon.net>> wrote:

>

>     Tad Heckaman wrote:

>>>     Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes

>>>     past 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the

>>>     middle, not sure if thats normal. 

>>>

>>>     A few other issues...

>>>     Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for

>>>     the antenna to do anything?

>>>     ... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a

>>>     new one in?

>>>     Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running,

>>>     and theres fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its

>>>     clogged or something. The pump sounds like its running dry,

>>>     although the tank is almost full.

>

>     Tad:

>

>     I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

>

>     Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be

>     operational to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the

>     antenna.  Does your 82 have an Antenna switch for mast height in

>     the console?  I'd pull the radio and check to see if the harness

>     at rear is plugged in and getting power.  If you choose to keep

>     the original radio there is a source that handles the Becker head

>     unit and associated amps and fader repairs.  If you choose to

>     replace with an aftermarket, this list will jump to life with all

>     sorts of recommendations.

>

>

> I wouldn't mind keeping the existing radio, kinda looks cool with all 

> the buttons on it. :)

> I assume that to pull the radio I will have to remove some panels? I 

> really need to get a book on this car. From what it sounds like it has 

> a separate amp for the speakers... I wouldn't mind bypassing the 

> entire radio and just attach my ipod directly to the amp. Is that 

> possible? Don't really need the radio, although I should fix it 

> sometime. I guess the ultimate fix for me would be a small hidden 

> audio jack somewhere that when plugged in, would override the radio 

> and allow me to play mp3s directly to the amp. Quality would be better 

> too.

> Am I way out in left field here with the way I understand how the 

> audio system works?

>  

>

>     I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses

>     are plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly

>     behind the ic.  The clock is the first and easiest power source to

>     check back there.  It's a single lead providing continuous +12vdc

>     that attaches to a spade lug on the clock segment.  Check voltage

>     between this lead and one of the ground points.  See what you get

>     before working the ic repairs.

>

>

> Well, I can hear the clock ticking, it just doesnt move very quickly, 

> or at all.

>

>     Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend

>     some serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is

>     equally likely the cam shafts and rockers have seen better days. 

>     If on the other hand the dual chain conversion has been done I'd

>     next inspect the chain rails and tips of the sprockets.  Look for

>     cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of sprockets should not have sharp

>     pointed edges, should be smooth with some meat at the tips to

>     round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes for galling.  If the

>     cams are galled the rockers are galled as well (rockers not easily

>     viewed without light and mirror).  I have wet lapped a few cam

>     lobes and replaced the respective rockers to eliminate a miss and

>     a tick but, once the metals have started to go (scoring/galling)

>     you are looking at more machine work or the need to replace the

>     cams (about $800 each) plus the rockers (short money).  Again, I'd

>     hold up on doing too much until you see the history on that engine

>     from the dealer.

>

> Still waiting on a reply from the dealer, I am hoping all this has 

> been done.

>

>  

>

>     Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may

>     be plugged with sediment, you will instantly need a new

>     seal/grommet for the reservoir where the pump is seated.  So, I'd

>     have one or two (headlamp washer line if equipped) ready when you

>     do this fix.  You'll need to pull the battery and that's a good

>     time to repair the batt tray and inspect underneath for corrosion

>     or damage to the sway bar fitting that sits under the tray.  New

>     tray is <$20US.

>

>     Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse

>     power (380 US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer

>     lasting motor with less dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500

>     (US 184 hp) IMHO.  Preference on a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if

>     you can find one.

>

>

> How much does one of those engines cost normally? I assume its higher 

> than rebuilding/fixing up the old engine. But then, I would get more 

> HP, which cant hurt anything but gas mileage. :)

>

>     -\Dick

>

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>     Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

>

>

>

> -- 

> Tad Heckaman

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

> The MB Coupes Website!

> W126 SEC Mailing List

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