[W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues

[Dick Spellman]

Tad Heckaman wrote:

>> Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 

>> 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, 

>> not sure if thats normal. 

>>

>> A few other issues...

>> Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the 

>> antenna to do anything?

>> ... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new 

>> one in?

>> Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and 

>> theres fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or 

>> something. The pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is 

>> almost full.


Tad:

I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be 
operational to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the 
antenna.  Does your 82 have an Antenna switch for mast height in the 
console?  I'd pull the radio and check to see if the harness at rear is 
plugged in and getting power.  If you choose to keep the original radio 
there is a source that handles the Becker head unit and associated amps 
and fader repairs.  If you choose to replace with an aftermarket, this 
list will jump to life with all sorts of recommendations.

I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses are 
plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly behind the 
ic.  The clock is the first and easiest power source to check back 
there.  It's a single lead providing continuous +12vdc that attaches to 
a spade lug on the clock segment.  Check voltage between this lead and 
one of the ground points.  See what you get before working the ic repairs.

Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend some 
serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is equally likely 
the cam shafts and rockers have seen better days.  If on the other hand 
the dual chain conversion has been done I'd next inspect the chain rails 
and tips of the sprockets.  Look for cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of 
sprockets should not have sharp pointed edges, should be smooth with 
some meat at the tips to round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes 
for galling.  If the cams are galled the rockers are galled as well 
(rockers not easily viewed without light and mirror).  I have wet lapped 
a few cam lobes and replaced the respective rockers to eliminate a miss 
and a tick but, once the metals have started to go (scoring/galling) you 
are looking at more machine work or the need to replace the cams (about 
$800 each) plus the rockers (short money).  Again, I'd hold up on doing 
too much until you see the history on that engine from the dealer.

Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may be 
plugged with sediment, you will instantly need a new seal/grommet for 
the reservoir where the pump is seated.  So, I'd have one or two 
(headlamp washer line if equipped) ready when you do this fix.  You'll 
need to pull the battery and that's a good time to repair the batt tray 
and inspect underneath for corrosion or damage to the sway bar fitting 
that sits under the tray.  New tray is <$20US.

Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse power 
(380 US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer lasting motor with 
less dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500 (US 184 hp) IMHO.  
Preference on a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if you can find one.

-\Dick
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