[W126 Coupe] HELP UNSUB.

[Phil Shuman]

WOULD SOMEBODY PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. I'VE FOLLOWED THE PROCEDURE AT THE MAIN WEB SITE 5 TIMES... OR GIVE ME A PHONE # OF SOMEONE THAT RUNS THE LIST SO I CAN CALL THEM AND PERHAPS DO IT THAT WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
  PZAPATO at SBCGLOBAL.NET

Axel Wulff <axelwulff at hotmail.com> wrote:
        You wrote:
  Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. 
  - Pull the instrument cluster and check all leads and circuits.
  Oil pressure goes past 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if thats normal. 
  - Normal.
  If its not, can I still get it converted to dual chain? Or is that too costly/not possible?
  - Yes, and its the same price as a timing chain change.
  Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the antenna to do anything?
  - Yes, the radio send a signal through the antenna switch. Without this signal the antenna won't work.

  Windshield washer fluid is not coming out.
  - Check all the hoses and blow through them with compressed air if necessary.





Regards,   
Axel J. Wulff   
610-731-5453 Cellular   
610-572-4611 Home   
  
  
  
    
---------------------------------
    
From:  "Tad Heckaman" <douglash at gmail.com>
Reply-To:  Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
To:  "Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Subject:  Re: [W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues
Date:  Mon, 11 Dec 2006 09:40:34 -0500
  



  On 12/11/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:   
  
  
  
     
     
  
  
Tad Heckaman wrote:   
  Replys below...
  
  
  
     On 12/9/06, Dick Spellman < 
spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:   
       
       Tad Heckaman wrote: 
       I just purchased a 1982 380SEC, and it   
runs great. There   
are a few little issues that I'd like to get fix.
  
      
  
      The first thing is the locks. I know they are vacuum   
based, but other   
than that I dont know much. Basically what happens is that when I lock   
the drivers door, either with the key or the lock itself, I hear the   
pump run, and all they all lock, but then the passenger/trunk/fuel   
unlock, and then they all lock. It never actually stops doing that (it   
did it for about 10 time before I decided enough was enough and pulled   
the drivers side lock back up to stop the endless lock/unlock cycle).   
Now this car did have a dead battery for a while, so perhaps some   
sensor needs to be reset? I am not sure.     
You'll need to read up on the simple 3-wire vacuum pump on your 82 SEC   
in the MB manual.  Pull the fuse for now from the engine compartment   
fuse box so you do not burn out that expensive pump in the trunk spare   
tire well.  Pick up a Mighty Vac ($30) and start with the vac line at   
the pump and work your way forward from trunk lid to gas cap to   
passenger door to driver's door to see if there is a slow leak or a   
break in the vac line.  I've seen many breaks at the point where the   
line passes through the door hing rubber seal.  Don't pump pressure   
above 10 inches on the Mighy Vac when testing  
       
  
    
     

  Purchased a mighty vac today, I   
will test the vacuum in the next few days. I didnt pull the fuse, I   
unplugged the pump in the back. Is that bad or should I go ahead and   
pull the fuse as well?     
  So long as the pump is not powered you are all set.   
  
  
  
Great. 

    
        
    The car idles low, and lags roughly for a second before 
the car 
accelerates. While idling, it also surges, almost like its idling so   
low than it revs itself to keep it from stalling. The previous owner   
said that the injectors were dirty from sitting for so long (probably   
sat for a year or 2, then he drove it everyday to work for a few months   
and then parked it again). He took it to our local MB dealership and   
also to a regular car shop and they said that it just needs to be run,   
with some injector cleaner in it. They recommended that if its   
'working' then dont touch the injection system. Is that all that it   
really needs, or should I take it in myself and have it checked? Is   
there anything I can check myself?  Well, you can start with 1 can   
of BG-44K  ($30 or less at MB   
dealer) and see if the performance improves.  If not, take it back the   
the MB dealership for a proepr run through or you will have to become   
somewhat expert in short order to do all that is required to diagnose   
and fix the engine and it's systems yourself.  
       
  
       
     

  I have already put a standard   
bottle of injector cleaner (Tekron brand I think). This morning its not   
doing the lag when revving the engine, so it already seems to be   
improving. The engine will start doing the surging after about 2-3 min   
of running from a cold-start, but it doesn't seem as bad. Whats the   
idle rpm supposed to be? Perhaps its too low?    
  Park or Neutral and coolant temp <42 C 750 rpm minimium; >42   
C 500 rpm minimum for 116 81/82 380 US.   
  
    
    
Thats what I am seeing for my RPMs, hopefully it will clear up on its own.

  

      
        
A gas gauge does not work, where should I 
look first to fix that (makes   
me worry that I will run out of gas at some point)
  
The radio/antenna does not work (I really want to replace the radio   
with something more modern, and if I want to upgrade in the future,   
having a working antenna would be nice) 
  
      The sunroof sometimes works (prev owner stated that alot   
of the   
electrical problems are just caused by poor contacts on the switches,   
and opening the dash and cleaning up the contacts on the switches would   
help) (hah) Start by ordering up a complete fuse replacement kit   
($10) and   
replace every fuse in the fuse box.  See what is then fixed and report   
back.  I would not dive into much of anything until the fuses are   
replaced.  
       
  
       
     Just replaced all the fuses, 
nearly ran autozone out of those types of fuses. Should I find a fuse   
replacement kit and do it with those, or did I effectively do the same   
thing by buying standard fuses?   
  Copper tipped fuses replaced every 10 years of the correct value   
and you should be all set.  Clean any fuse holders that were pitted or   
burnt with a qtip and sandpaper.
  
   Fuel gauge doesnt seem to be   
working yet either. Where is that sensor located? I suspect the car sat   
without fuel in the tank for a period of time, and perhaps the sensor   
rusted or froze up.  The sender is in the fuel tank behind the rear   
bucket seat driver's side.  Probably need a new sender and seal if as   
you say the car was let to sit with anything less than a full tank of   
fuel.   
  
    
    I guess I will have to get in there and take a look at it.
 

    
        
    Odometer does not work, title already states that its 'not 
actual', but 
can I get that fixed?  Fuses first and yes the speedo can be   
repaired if needed.  
       
  
       
       
       
       Since I have never had a MB before, this will be a great   
way for me to   
get familiar with how these cars are put together. I just replaced a   
few lights and the sealed beams (cant wait for euro lights later on,   
what a PAIN to replace those sealed beams), so now I can get it   
registered and on the road.  I'd suggest you have someone confirm   
that the timing chain on the   
380 motor has been converted to a dual chain before spending any $ on   
the SEC.  You need to get a copy of the MB Cd-Rom for service on your   
SEC ($20-40 as a guess).   
       
  
    
     

  I emailed the local MB dealership,   
where it was supposedly taken regularly for all its maintenance. Would   
the dealership automatically upgrade it to dual chain if they replaced   
the timing chain?  I'd sure hope so!    
The engine is junk if it's not dual chain.  And then try and obtain the   
mileage on the dual row chain, tensioners and guide rails since it was   
last done.  See what the dealership says.   
  
    
    If its not, can I still get it converted to dual chain? Or is that too costly/not possible?



    

      
        

Thanks for any replies!
  
-- 
  
Tad Heckaman   
      
Comments highlighted.  Good luck.  Dick  

---------------------------------
  
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W126 SEC Mailing List  
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
  
      
       
  
    
  
The MB Coupes Website!
  
W126 SEC Mailing List
  
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
  
    
  
       
     
  
  Replys are inline, thanks for the   
replys!
  
  
  
  
  
-- 
  
Tad Heckaman   
  

---------------------------------
  
The MB Coupes Website!  
W126 SEC Mailing List  
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
  
    
You mention odometer not working.  Does everything else on the   
instrument cluster work except fuel guage?  Clock, tach, speedo all   
okay???   
    
Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if thats normal. 


A few other issues...
Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the antenna to do anything?   

... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new one in?
Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and theres fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or something. The pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is almost full.   


Thanks for the replys.



  

    
  
-\Dick
  
  
  
  
  

The MB Coupes Website!
W126 SEC Mailing List
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

  



-- 
Tad Heckaman   
  

  >The MB Coupes Website!

>W126 SEC Mailing List

>Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

    
The MB Coupes Website!
W126 SEC Mailing List
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
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