[W126 Coupe] MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 67, Issue 5

Attila attila13 at bellsouth.net
Sun Jan 10 15:45:50 EST 2010




I would only add a few pearls of wisdom to what has

already been written, albeit in a different direction.

For the time you will spend correcting the system, it

will be about the same as removing it. And, no money

spent!!! I took it off my '89 about 4 years ago. For

the short time I have driven it, I cannot tell the difference.

It is riding on H&Rs, Koni adjustables, 18" rims with

very low profile Pirellis. Even with 2 people in the

back-seat, it makes no difference, in fact it is a better

(traction) ride. One less item to break, saves room

up-front (better cooling), one less belt to drag, tiny

weight savings (but it all adds-up). Of course, if you

carry 300lbs. in the trunk at all times, you may wish

to retain it. Just my view.

BTW. I'm also in the (wacky) mortgage business.



_____

From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Markus Meyer
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 3:05 PM
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 67, Issue 5



Ken,



I can second everything Axel is saying with the SLS. I've got 2 560's with
it, and have worked on it in both cars. My SEC I replaced most of the rear
of the system, the SEL most of the front. As Axel says, check for flow
first. You can take the lever off the rear sway bar from the valve and see
if it causes the rear to go up and down. If not, its faulty, I'd try to
locate a used one. Get genuine for sure, I also learned the hard way with
that. Good time to replace the hose between reservoir and metal line going
into the pump, at this age they tend to leak, due to the age.



If you have any specific questions, feel free to contact me directly, like I
said, I've had the "fun" of working on this system on both cars and know it
fairly well.



Markus

On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 2:06 PM, Axel Wulff <axelwulff at hotmail.com> wrote:

Ken,

If your SLS is not operating (hydraulic rear end suspension), there are a
number of components that may be malfunctioning or broken. You should easily
be able to tell if the system is not working; either your car will have a
very spongy ride (just springs, no damping), or the ride will be rock hard
(the hydraulic rams are not moving much).

If this is actually the case with your car, I'd start with verifying that
the pump is working. You do this by taking the top off the reservoir in the
engine compartment, the clear plastic bottle sitting on the driver's side
right next to the radiator. With the top off and the engine running you
visually verify that oil is circulating in the system. If there is no
circulation, either the pump is shot or the system is blocked (which would
ruin the pump in short order anyway....).

If you have oil circulation, the next thing to check would be the
accumulators. They're spherical devices (cannon balls) mounted to the rear
subframe. One for each side. If the rubber membrane between the nitrogen
chamber and the oil is ruptured, they'll stop working as dampeners and the
ride will suffer. Use only genuine MB spheres when you replace them. Don't
ask me how I know.......

With new spheres and replaced fluids, your system should work properly. If
you continue to have issues, the leveling valve may be malfunctioning and
should be replaced. Check back for the procedure to test the leveling valve
after you've replaced the spheres and the hydraulic oil. The hydraulic rams
(looks like conventional shock absorbers) are farily sturdy but can also
break. However, their most common problem would be a leakage.

Hope this helps in getting you started.

Regards,
Axel J. Wulff
610-731-5453 Cellular
610-572-4611 Home





_____

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 18:34:37 +0000
From: kenhartz at comcast.net
To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 67, Issue 5

Hey guys;

Thanks for the responses. I do believe the sway bar bushing is the problem,
since it is making the same noise it did when I bought the car used in 1993.
I immediately took it to my benz dealer and had a bunch of stuff done, but
the dealer had a tough time with the noise. They started replacing a bunch
of stuff, and after about two or three visits to them for the same problem,
they finally trouble shot the problem by having a technician ride in the
trunk, and determined the exact noise location. They replaced the sway bar
end bushings, and that took care of the problem. Unfortunately, I spent
about 1000.00 (if my memory is correct) to get to the root of the problem.
Anyway, I did find what looks like the correct bushing at this link
http://www.autopartsworld.com/mercedes-benz_parts/560sec/strutrod/1986.html
, but the bushing retails for 50.00, and they are charging 72.00!! I guess
it is a case of supply and demand, but I will keep looking. If anyone knows
where I can get this busing cheaper, please let me know.

Also, I looked up Auto-RX, and it looks interesting, I will probably give it
a try if the normal trans service doesn't cure the problem. I would get it
today and try it, but it looks as if it is only sold direct, and I was going
to do the trans work either tomorrow, or Tuesday.

One more thing regarding my rear suspension. The level actuator that
attaches to the sway bar doesn't work, or so I have been told by my ex
mechanic. The leveling feature doesn't work on the car, and I was
wondering, has anyone taken apart one of these actuators to try to repair
them. or are they completely shot when they go?? If the part was cheap, I
would just replace it, but it is about 350.00.

Thanks for all the help.

Ken

Kenneth N. Hartz, President
Advanced Mortgage Services, Inc.
946 Farnsworth Ave.
Bordentown, NJ 08505
(p) 609-351-6565
(f) 609-479-3557

----- Original Message -----
From: mbcoupes-request at mbcoupes.com
To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 12:15:26 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 67, Issue 5

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4. Re: Transmission problems and sway bar issues (Markus Meyer)
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