[W126 Coupe] MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 67, Issue 5

[Markus Meyer]

Ken,

I can second everything Axel is saying with the SLS.  I've got 2 560's with
it, and have worked on it in both cars.  My SEC I replaced most of the rear
of the system, the SEL most of the front.  As Axel says, check for flow
first.  You can take the lever off the rear sway bar from the valve and see
if it causes the rear to go up and down.  If not, its faulty, I'd try to
locate a used one.  Get genuine for sure, I also learned the hard way with
that.  Good time to replace the hose between reservoir and metal line going
into the pump, at this age they tend to leak, due to the age.

If you have any specific questions, feel free to contact me directly, like I
said, I've had the "fun" of working on this system on both cars and know it
fairly well.

Markus

On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 2:06 PM, Axel Wulff <axelwulff at hotmail.com> wrote:


> Ken,

>

> If your SLS is not operating (hydraulic rear end suspension), there are a

> number of components that may be malfunctioning or broken. You should easily

> be able to tell if the system is not working; either your car will have a

> very spongy ride (just springs, no damping), or the ride will be rock hard

> (the hydraulic rams are not moving much).

>

> If this is actually the case with your car, I'd start with verifying that

> the pump is working. You do this by taking the top off the reservoir in the

> engine compartment, the clear plastic bottle sitting on the driver's side

> right next to the radiator. With the top off and the engine running you

> visually verify that oil is circulating in the system. If there is no

> circulation, either the pump is shot or the system is blocked (which would

> ruin the pump in short order anyway....).

>

> If you have oil circulation, the next thing to check would be the

> accumulators. They're spherical devices (cannon balls) mounted to the rear

> subframe. One for each side. If the rubber membrane between the nitrogen

> chamber and the oil is ruptured, they'll stop working as dampeners and the

> ride will suffer. Use only genuine MB spheres when you replace them. Don't

> ask me how I know.......

>

> With new spheres and replaced fluids, your system should work properly. If

> you continue to have issues, the leveling valve may be malfunctioning and

> should be replaced. Check back for the procedure to test the leveling valve

> after you've replaced the spheres and the hydraulic oil. The hydraulic rams

> (looks like conventional shock absorbers) are farily sturdy but can also

> break. However, their most common problem would be a leakage.

>

> Hope this helps in getting you started.

>

> Regards,

> Axel J. Wulff

> 610-731-5453 Cellular

> 610-572-4611 Home

>

>

>

>

> ------------------------------

> Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 18:34:37 +0000

> From: kenhartz at comcast.net

> To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com

> Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 67, Issue 5

>

> Hey guys;

>

> Thanks for the responses.  I do believe the sway bar bushing is the

> problem, since it is making the same noise it did when I bought the car used

> in 1993.  I immediately took it to my benz dealer and had a bunch of stuff

> done, but the dealer had a tough time with the noise.  They started

> replacing a bunch of stuff, and after about two or three visits to them for

> the same problem, they finally trouble shot the problem by having a

> technician ride in the trunk, and determined the exact noise location.  They

> replaced the sway bar end bushings, and that took care of the problem.

> Unfortunately, I spent about 1000.00 (if my memory is correct) to get to the

> root of the problem.  Anyway, I did find what looks like the correct bushing

> at this link

> http://www.autopartsworld.com/mercedes-benz_parts/560sec/strutrod/1986.html

> , but the bushing retails for 50.00, and they are charging 72.00!!  I guess

> it is a case of supply and demand, but I will keep looking.  If anyone knows

> where I can get this busing cheaper, please let me know.

>

> Also, I looked up Auto-RX, and it looks interesting, I will probably give

> it a try if the normal trans service doesn't cure the problem.  I would get

> it today and try it, but it looks as if it is only sold direct, and I was

> going to do the trans work either tomorrow, or Tuesday.

>

> One more thing regarding my rear suspension.  The level actuator that

> attaches to the sway bar doesn't work, or so I have been told by my ex

> mechanic.  The leveling feature doesn't work on the car, and I was

> wondering, has anyone taken apart one of these actuators to try to repair

> them. or are they completely shot when they go??  If the part was cheap, I

> would just replace it, but it is about 350.00.

>

> Thanks for all the help.

>

> Ken

>

> Kenneth N. Hartz, President

> Advanced Mortgage Services, Inc.

> 946 Farnsworth Ave.

> Bordentown, NJ 08505

> (p) 609-351-6565

> (f) 609-479-3557

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: mbcoupes-request at mbcoupes.com

> To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com

> Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 12:15:26 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern

> Subject: MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 67, Issue 5

>

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> Today's Topics: 1. Transmission problems and sway bar issues (

> kenhartz at comcast.net) 2. Re: Transmission problems and sway bar issues

> (mbramel) 3. Re: Transmission problems and sway bar issues (Dick Spellman)

> 4. Re: Transmission problems and sway bar issues (Markus Meyer)

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