[W126 Coupe] Steering Damper...

[Jon Pridham]

Hi Dick,
 
Sorry for the delay in responding - i've been away on business all week.
 
Many thanks for the info - very helpful indeed.
 
Regards
 
Jon


Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:32:51 -0400From: spell.yy at verizon.netTo: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.comSubject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Steering Damper...
Hi Jon,Maybe start with this DIY primer on the front suspension for 126 chassis MB's as I have come to know them.  Pasted from a post I made to someone in the past.
I've done many partial and two complete 'zero clocking' of MB 126 suspensions, including my SEC.On the SEC you have the following which are replaced if worn in the front suspension:

Lower ball joints (display creaking and groaning, sounds like an old boat going over bumps).  Elevated wheel and pry bar will show up/down play on the joint pressed in the lower arm.  If this is what you find, time to replace.  If no signs of trouble, leave em alone.
Wheel bearings, check/inspect when rotors replaced.  Sold as a kit that included inner/outer bearings, races, the grease dew-hickey(distributes the grease as the wheel rotates) in the cap and the grease seal that sits up on the spindle.  I've done them as a matter of course at 120k miles or so on my MB's.
Upper ball joint and arm plus the (2) sway bar bushings, one to either side of the upper arm.  I've done them when doing the brake supports and shocks at the same time.
Brake Support (track rod) displays clunking when you start/stop also you can usually see the rubber boot has torn and in severe cases physically move the rod in and out with a pry bar.
I recommend you do the big rubber bearings in the 'dawg bone' attached to the brake support if they are original or if oil has spilled on them when doing the brake support (track rod).
Idler arm - slop or play in the car while driving- either torque the arm to see if it will tighten up or just replace with the MB idler arm kit.
Steering Dampner -  I just remove one bolt/screw and see if this horizontal shock moves freely in and out.  If it does, time for a new one.  If it's nice and stiff, leave it alone.  Severe wear and it will rattle as the outer case smacks the inner case/rod.
I always check under the battery tray (passenger side on US models) to see if batt acid has had any impact on the sway bar upper steel bracket or rubber mount.  If so, clean this up or replace as needed.  Not so bad on the batt side.  And no fun at all on the fuse box side which should be in relatively good shape where not much can cause harm there.
Tie-rod ends
Steering box play-I've done this many times with great results but, the how to is best left to someone else as doing this wrong is costly
Shocks all around - replaced when the car continues to bounce more than 1 1/2 returns so to speak.
Springs all around - replaced if badly rusted or if sagging in the rear.  Pretty inexpensive using conventional MB springs.  Can really improve ride quality.  Done these on one euro sedan along with zero clock of entire suspension front and rear.  Then the SEC enjoys the H&R's lowered with 18 inch rims and the correct rake and alignment, plus new rubber spacing (nibs) front and rear.  Ride is more responsive, corners flat for a big chassis MB.  Ride is noticeably firmer than with stock springs.  BTW I chose H&R Luxury Springs vs. the Sport.Don't know if I missed anything.  Not a mechanic just a back yard hack that has been coached by the best on this list over the years.Carl, Steve, Mike and Jonathan (my parts supplier, too!) to name the more proficient of the bunch.Rear suspension -Maybe another time as it's far more work than the front if you do the whole enchilada or minor if you just do sub-frame mounts and sway bar bushings.Regards,Dick/Jon Pridham wrote: 


 Hi Everybody, What are the symptoms for a worn out steering damper? Reason i'm asking is that i'm due to replace my current front shocks (lower bush mounts are past their best!) with some Bilstein HD's and i noticed they do a steering damper. I know on certain components you expect to replace items after a certain milage or lifespan ie, timing chains and accessories etc.  Now, as far as i know i still have the original damper fitted, and she's entering her 21st year and just shot past 148,000mls in style! :o) Any info would be much appreciated! Thanks Jon 1982 380SEC1987 560SEC 

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