[W126 Coupe] HELP! Car Salling!!!!!

[David Fatovic]

All W126 cars take off in second gear, that is normal,
the problem is the shifting between gears.  Or it will
be running about 3K RPM in 3rd and won't shift to 4th,
even if you let your foot off the gas, it will just
rev down.  

As far as the ignition control module, most of the
time the car will not start at all if that is bad.  I
have heard that it can also cause problems with
stalling or bad spark.

David

--- Kivendren Moodliyar <kivendren at telkomsa.net>
wrote:

> I remember some time ago there was a discussion
> about the 560SEC taking of
> in 2nd Gear, maybe yours is doing the same.
> 
> Just out of interest
> How would you know if it was the Ignition Control
> Module??
> We had a Pirate Ignition Module and thus the
> Kickdown (Or Fuel Pump) relay
> wouldn't work we then purchased the original
> Ignition Module but replaced
> the HT leads with Pirate ones.. Would this be a
> Problem cos sometimes she
> doesn't start until you hit the Ignition module then
> she starts. 
> 
> Kindest Regards : Kivendren Moodliyar '83 380SEC
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com
> [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
> On Behalf Of David Fatovic
> Sent: 17 July 2006 04:16 PM
> To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
> Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] HELP! Car Salling!!!!!
> 
> I thought I would report back on this.  The car is
> an
> 85 Euro 500 SEL.  The problem was the car would not
> hold idle, it was idling very rough and jumping all
> over the place.  I thought it was a vacuum leak,
> another mechanic thought it was the ignition control
> module (it wasn't).  It turns out it was the timing
> and the warm up regulator.  I guess when the car is
> cold, this adjusts the fuel pressure up to about
> 70psi, and then when the car is warm, it reduces it
> to
> about 35psi.  I guess this one is shot and was
> actually reducing fuel pressure.  That is now
> bypassed
> for the time being, as well is the vacuum advance on
> the rotor.  I thought we had a dead cylinder the way
> the car would jump and snort at idle for quite some
> time now.  The mechanic said he has never seen a car
> (215K miles) that has not had the timing chain done
> look so tidy inside.  No lifter problems, no cam
> problems and no chain problems.  There is one upper
> rail he would replace but that is it.  Now you fire
> the car up and it will purr.  Amazing!  It does
> still
> have some other problems, but now this one is fixed.
> 
> I guess it was advanced so far (thankfully I didn't
> do
> it) that all we were getting was detonation.  
> 
> I do have one question, the transmission seems to
> hold
> gears too long.  It will shift from second to third
> ok, but it holds on to third.  If you let off the
> gas,
> it just holds the gear and you decelerate.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> David
> 
> --- Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:
> 
> > Markus and David:
> > 
> > The prescribed drain and flush with new filter is
> > what Mercedes 
> > recommends.  The torque converter does have a
> drain
> > plug on it.  Looking 
> > from rear to front with the pan /filter removed
> > while another person 
> > slowly rotates the crankshaft using a socket
> wrench
> > just up in front of 
> > the engine and radiator is all that is needed to
> spy
> > the drain plug.
> > 
> > Let the system drain for 15 minutes or so, replace
> > the torque converter 
> > plug, attach new filter and top off with clean
> ATF. 
> > Careful with the 
> > even tightening of the pan bolts and seating of
> the
> > new pan gasket, 
> > that's it.  Only other caveat is be very clean
> when
> > working around the 
> > transmission.  Wipe every thing down first so no
> > debris enters and 
> > always use a clean lint free rag on the dipstick.
> > 
> > My Mercedes dealer where I pick up hard to find MB
> > parts and the two 
> > independents I work around from time to time say
> > there is no way to 
> > clean or recycle the transmission fluid and filter
> > that they know of.  
> > None recommend the procedure.
> > 
> > Just my 2.
> > 
> > Dick
> > 
> > Markus Meyer wrote:
> > 
> > > Another idea to try is something relatively
> newer
> > than the old "drain 
> > > and refill" technique. They now have a
> "flushing"
> > technique where they 
> > > attach a machine to your lines in and out of the
> > cooler, and pump in 
> > > new fluid and the old is taken out. Just had it
> > done to my wife's car 
> > > as I was switching to Amsoil and didn't want to
> > "mix" fluids, plus 
> > > there is no drain plug on that torque converter.
> > Car seems to run a 
> > > lot smoother now, and I'm quickly becoming quite
> a
> > convert to Amsoil 
> > > products, being about to switch the last of my 5
> > vehicles over to it 
> > > for engine oil, and slowly the trans fluids,
> then
> > rear end diffs, etc. 
> > > Had the filter replaced as part of the flush,
> got
> > out lots of metal 
> > > flakes and dirt as they inject a cleaner to get
> > all the gunk out as it 
> > > flushes. Only cost $75 plus my own supplied
> > fluids.
> > >
> > > Markus Meyer
> > > 484-919-9762 (cell)
> > > http://www.meyerprobateproperties.com/
> > >
> > > --- On Mon 06/12, Dick Spellman <
> > spell.yy at verizon.net > wrote:
> > >
> > >     *From: *Dick Spellman [mailto:
> > spell.yy at verizon.net]
> > >     *To: *mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com
> > >     *Date: *Mon, 12 Jun 2006 15:13:30 -0400
> > >     *Subject: *Re: [W126 Coupe] HELP! Car
> > Salling!!!!!
> > >
> > >     Hi David:
> > >
> > >     I would change the transmission fluid
> > including torque converter &
> > >     filter the next chance you get. Does not
> make
> > a lot of sense to
> > >     change
> > >     6 qts of dirty fluid and leave a dirty qt
> > behind. You end up all over
> > >     again with a diluted dirty fluid mix with
> > perhaps a bit less
> > >     debris in
> > >     suspension.
> > >
> > >     The transmission modulator is to the
> driver's
> > side and has a single
> > >     vacuum line (not electrical) coming from it.
> > There is a rubber plug
> > >     that you can pry off with a small pick to
> > un-cover a metal 'Tee'
> > >     shaped
> > >     adjustment that nests into pre-cut grooves
> in
> > the modulator housing.
> > >     Turning this T clockwise increases shift
> > firmness, and counter-clock
> > >     wise softens the shift firmness. To turn the
> T
> > you first gently
> > >     pull it
> > >     free of the groves and then drop it into the
> > next CW or CCW position
> > >     (groove). My mechanic had always advised me
> to
> > do the adjustment one
> > >     click at a time. I had a severe soft shift
> on
> > a 90 300SE and ended up
> > >     moving the T CW three clicks to finally get
> it
> > right. So if the shift
> 
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