[W126 Coupe] HELP! Car Salling!!!!!

[Kivendren Moodliyar]

I remember some time ago there was a discussion about the 560SEC taking of
in 2nd Gear, maybe yours is doing the same.

Just out of interest
How would you know if it was the Ignition Control Module??
We had a Pirate Ignition Module and thus the Kickdown (Or Fuel Pump) relay
wouldn't work we then purchased the original Ignition Module but replaced
the HT leads with Pirate ones.. Would this be a Problem cos sometimes she
doesn't start until you hit the Ignition module then she starts. 

Kindest Regards : Kivendren Moodliyar '83 380SEC -----Original Message-----

From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of David Fatovic
Sent: 17 July 2006 04:16 PM
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] HELP! Car Salling!!!!!

I thought I would report back on this.  The car is an
85 Euro 500 SEL.  The problem was the car would not
hold idle, it was idling very rough and jumping all
over the place.  I thought it was a vacuum leak,
another mechanic thought it was the ignition control
module (it wasn't).  It turns out it was the timing
and the warm up regulator.  I guess when the car is
cold, this adjusts the fuel pressure up to about
70psi, and then when the car is warm, it reduces it to
about 35psi.  I guess this one is shot and was
actually reducing fuel pressure.  That is now bypassed
for the time being, as well is the vacuum advance on
the rotor.  I thought we had a dead cylinder the way
the car would jump and snort at idle for quite some
time now.  The mechanic said he has never seen a car
(215K miles) that has not had the timing chain done
look so tidy inside.  No lifter problems, no cam
problems and no chain problems.  There is one upper
rail he would replace but that is it.  Now you fire
the car up and it will purr.  Amazing!  It does still
have some other problems, but now this one is fixed. 
I guess it was advanced so far (thankfully I didn't do
it) that all we were getting was detonation.  

I do have one question, the transmission seems to hold
gears too long.  It will shift from second to third
ok, but it holds on to third.  If you let off the gas,
it just holds the gear and you decelerate.

Any ideas?

David

--- Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

> Markus and David:
> 
> The prescribed drain and flush with new filter is
> what Mercedes 
> recommends.  The torque converter does have a drain
> plug on it.  Looking 
> from rear to front with the pan /filter removed
> while another person 
> slowly rotates the crankshaft using a socket wrench
> just up in front of 
> the engine and radiator is all that is needed to spy
> the drain plug.
> 
> Let the system drain for 15 minutes or so, replace
> the torque converter 
> plug, attach new filter and top off with clean ATF. 
> Careful with the 
> even tightening of the pan bolts and seating of the
> new pan gasket, 
> that's it.  Only other caveat is be very clean when
> working around the 
> transmission.  Wipe every thing down first so no
> debris enters and 
> always use a clean lint free rag on the dipstick.
> 
> My Mercedes dealer where I pick up hard to find MB
> parts and the two 
> independents I work around from time to time say
> there is no way to 
> clean or recycle the transmission fluid and filter
> that they know of.  
> None recommend the procedure.
> 
> Just my 2.
> 
> Dick
> 
> Markus Meyer wrote:
> 
> > Another idea to try is something relatively newer
> than the old "drain 
> > and refill" technique. They now have a "flushing"
> technique where they 
> > attach a machine to your lines in and out of the
> cooler, and pump in 
> > new fluid and the old is taken out. Just had it
> done to my wife's car 
> > as I was switching to Amsoil and didn't want to
> "mix" fluids, plus 
> > there is no drain plug on that torque converter.
> Car seems to run a 
> > lot smoother now, and I'm quickly becoming quite a
> convert to Amsoil 
> > products, being about to switch the last of my 5
> vehicles over to it 
> > for engine oil, and slowly the trans fluids, then
> rear end diffs, etc. 
> > Had the filter replaced as part of the flush, got
> out lots of metal 
> > flakes and dirt as they inject a cleaner to get
> all the gunk out as it 
> > flushes. Only cost $75 plus my own supplied
> fluids.
> >
> > Markus Meyer
> > 484-919-9762 (cell)
> > http://www.meyerprobateproperties.com/
> >
> > --- On Mon 06/12, Dick Spellman <
> spell.yy at verizon.net > wrote:
> >
> >     *From: *Dick Spellman [mailto:
> spell.yy at verizon.net]
> >     *To: *mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com
> >     *Date: *Mon, 12 Jun 2006 15:13:30 -0400
> >     *Subject: *Re: [W126 Coupe] HELP! Car
> Salling!!!!!
> >
> >     Hi David:
> >
> >     I would change the transmission fluid
> including torque converter &
> >     filter the next chance you get. Does not make
> a lot of sense to
> >     change
> >     6 qts of dirty fluid and leave a dirty qt
> behind. You end up all over
> >     again with a diluted dirty fluid mix with
> perhaps a bit less
> >     debris in
> >     suspension.
> >
> >     The transmission modulator is to the driver's
> side and has a single
> >     vacuum line (not electrical) coming from it.
> There is a rubber plug
> >     that you can pry off with a small pick to
> un-cover a metal 'Tee'
> >     shaped
> >     adjustment that nests into pre-cut grooves in
> the modulator housing.
> >     Turning this T clockwise increases shift
> firmness, and counter-clock
> >     wise softens the shift firmness. To turn the T
> you first gently
> >     pull it
> >     free of the groves and then drop it into the
> next CW or CCW position
> >     (groove). My mechanic had always advised me to
> do the adjustment one
> >     click at a time. I had a severe soft shift on
> a 90 300SE and ended up
> >     moving the T CW three clicks to finally get it
> right. So if the shift
> >     is soft or non-existent I'd go ahead and move
> it 2 clicks the
> >     first time
> >     to see if that helps a bit. Leave the cover
> off until you are
> >     satisfied
> >     with the shifts so you can raise the car up
> again and repeat as
> >     needed
> >     without having to pry that rubber off each
> time. There may be some
> >     limit to the # of clicks, I do not know. I
> think (3) is safe where
> >     I've
> >     done it, not sure how many more will be ok
> before potentially
> >     damaging
> >     the modulator itself. My understanding is that
> the modulator is a
> >     vacuum pulled rubber diaphragm (which can leak
> air with age) that
> >     controls a spring or piston of some sort. I've
> tested all kinds of
> >     devices with a MightyVac including the rubber
> diaphragm on the
> >     modulator. It would be handy if you could find
> one at some point.
> >     That's the limit of my knowledge on this
> subject.
> >
> >     Where this soft shift problem just cropped up
> after repairing a
> >     vacuum
> >     leak elsewhere, you may want to experiment to
> rule out the
> >     modulator and
> >     confirm something else amiss with the tranny.
> To do this I would
> >     remove
> >     and plug the vacuum line to the modulator.
> Then see if a hard
> >     shift or
> >     good shift is restored to conditions similar
> to what you experienced
> >     before making the vacuum repair. It won't hurt
> anything to try this
> >     just expect a hard shift between gears. If it
> works, hook the line
> >     back
> >     up and go on to adjust the modulator. If it
> does not work, . am
> >     afraid
> >     you are working yet another gremlin that may
> be the tranny having
> >     other
> >     problems. The complete fluid change may
> alleviate the condition,
> >     maybe not.
> >
> >     Good luck,
> >
> >     Dick
> >
> >     btw: just remember I started with this list
> with many past and
> >     present
> >     members back in 2001 and I knew less than
> nothing about MB's. So, any
> >     contribution I make is absolutely the
> collective wisdom of many who
> >     answered my questions of the past and I hope
> the future as well. My
> >     mechanic has been very gracious in letting me
> work on 'special
> >     projects'
> >     in his shop on weekends with his 30 + years of
> knowledge to guide me
> >     along the way. Having fun, just a hobby.
> Thanks.
> >
> >     David Fatovic wrote:
> >
> >     >I am no expert he says. Dick, you are one of
> the most
> >     >knowledgable people on this list.
> >     >
> >     >I did have the car at operating temp, I drove
> the 
=== message truncated ===

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