[W126 Coupe] 126 chassis hood removal and replace

[Sharan Bains]

Nice write up.

One step I don't think is neccesary is the removal of the hinge springs - 
once the bonnet is in the vertical position, they are locked, so don't force 
any tension on the hinge/bonnet. Key is to have the bonnet in the fully 
vertical position.

I did this exact same job last weekend, where I had to swap the bonnet on 
one of my SEC's - a few years ago, my father went on a drive, before doing 
so he checked the water/oil in the car but did not fully close the 
bonnet...it was only half latched and he did not realise..halfway down the 
road , when he braked the bonnet flew open. With the force, it opened fully 
making strong contact with the guides near the windscreen, bending the 
corners of the bonnet, both sides.

So the bonnet ends where it meets the a-pillars, looked like cat ears. My 
bodyshop had the aluminium bonnet professionally bent back and strengthened, 
but over the past few years through use and time, those points had weakened 
and bent again. The SEC bonnet being alloy means it's not really feasible to 
repair once it's badly bent at a point.

So I got a replacement SEC hood from a breakers (very cheap here, about 
100gbp for a good SEC bonnet) and swapped it over...took about 10 mins with 
a friend holding...amazing when you see it's simply 4 pins holding such a 
big piece to the car !


talbir


>From: Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net>
>Reply-To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
>To: "mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
>Subject: [W126 Coupe] 126 chassis hood removal and replace
>Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2006 19:34:35 -0500
>
>To anyone who should ever have to do this bit of work on any of the 126 
>chassis.  Here are a few notes.
>
>Remove  the side hood to fender hood bumpers
>Remove the hood latch hardware
>Photo and remove the windshield washer hoses, electrics and chromed washer 
>outlets (carefully to just pry the plastic housing enough to lift it and 
>slide off of the hood opening, too much pressure on the aged plastic could 
>easily break the plastic.  These heated nozzles are expensive.  Remove the 
>rubber grommet with the nozzle.
>Remove the clips for wires and hoses on the hinges
>
>Now for the hood removal
>Raise the hood to the vertical lock position (be releasing driver then 
>passenger security latch on the way up)
>Remove both springs from the car noting or marking the tension position 
>slot (there are 3) you see in use on the chassis (remove springs from car!)
>Remove all (4) hood hinge bolt clips from hood interior (note position of 
>painted clip vs. gray primered clip)
>Using a hammer pop all (4) hinge bolts loose until they are flush with hood 
>interior metal
>Call your helper over and have helper hold the hood while you pry (hammer 
>claw/block of wood) the hinge pins (2) from one side of car
>Helper continues to hold hood vertical while you repeat the process on the 
>other side
>Objectives: don't let hood hit fenders, don't let hood hit the windshield 
>or the metal windshield reveals to either side
>Lift the hood (may need a little convincing to break away from nylon hinge 
>holders) and set hood aside
>
>Replacement of hood was different
>Set two 2X3's or 2X4's across the engine to opposing fenders cushioned and 
>padded where in contact with fenders
>Make sure (CERTAIN) the new hood on both sides has the little plastic 
>glides affixed to the area closest to the windscreen
>Set the new hood on the timbers so that the rear hinge pin can be mated 
>(aligned) with the rear most hood pin hole
>Put a bit of grease on the hole nylon sleeve in the hinge and set the pin 
>in place observing the pin slot orientation (a little notch in the pin that 
>fits the slotted recess on the hood) careful tapping with hammer will be 
>needed to drive it all the way in.
>Wipe away all visible grease and set the retainer clip on the backside of 
>the pin (interior of hood)
>Have your helper carefully raise the hood from the nose of the car so that 
>it is 4-5 feet off the ground (chest height) not too high or you hit things 
>you do not want hit causing bending, cracking of paint, breaking of glass 
>etc. etc. just enough to provide clearance and rotation of the forward 
>hinge arm to mate with the forward hood hinge hole
>Now using your free hand move the forward hinge hole into place with 
>forward hole on the hood
>Place the pin in place again observing the notch in the pin aligns with the 
>groove in the outer hinge hole
>Place the hinge retainer clip on the pin
>Carefully  pull the hood from the nose forward (you'll feel resistance) and 
>have your helper push the rear most corner of the hood (nearest windshield) 
>downward to engage the chassis pin with the black plastic notched sleeve.
>Repeat this process on the other side
>Now remove the timbers and carefully lift the hood (heavy with no springs) 
>until you reach the security latch point to either side and have your 
>helper release driver's then passengers security latch so you can EVENLY 
>raise the hood (helper assists) to full vertical lock point.
>Last item is to re-install the springs on the hood and the chassis 
>observing the previously installed chassis to hood tension notch
>Carefully lower the hood (releasing security latch, driver side only 
>required) to test alignment with fenders and front grill strips
>This should be factory perfect once again and all that is left is to 
>re-install all the wiring, hoses, clips, hood latch gear and front grill
>Final step is to test the mating of the latches to the front rail mounted 
>locks and their ease of release.
>
>I did this without the aid of a manual so the manual may do it an entirely 
>different way which may be easier (better).  This was the removal of the 
>destroyed 1986 300SE hood (hit be dear) and subsequent replacement using a 
>1990 300SE hood.  The electrics and wiper nozzle lines were entirely 
>different between these two model years.  The metal work was a perfect 
>match.  I did a color change (burgundy to white on the underside and top 
>(obvious) and the hood pad will be the last bit of work.
>
>Archived for anyone who needs this after a fender bender and they decide to 
>do it themselves.  It may prove to be of some use.
>
>Dick
>
>
>
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