[W126 Coupe] 126 chassis hood removal and replace

[Dick Spellman]

To anyone who should ever have to do this bit of work on any of the 126 
chassis.  Here are a few notes.

Remove  the side hood to fender hood bumpers
Remove the hood latch hardware
Photo and remove the windshield washer hoses, electrics and chromed 
washer outlets (carefully to just pry the plastic housing enough to lift 
it and slide off of the hood opening, too much pressure on the aged 
plastic could easily break the plastic.  These heated nozzles are 
expensive.  Remove the rubber grommet with the nozzle.
Remove the clips for wires and hoses on the hinges

Now for the hood removal
Raise the hood to the vertical lock position (be releasing driver then 
passenger security latch on the way up)
Remove both springs from the car noting or marking the tension position 
slot (there are 3) you see in use on the chassis (remove springs from car!)
Remove all (4) hood hinge bolt clips from hood interior (note position 
of painted clip vs. gray primered clip)
Using a hammer pop all (4) hinge bolts loose until they are flush with 
hood interior metal
Call your helper over and have helper hold the hood while you pry 
(hammer claw/block of wood) the hinge pins (2) from one side of car
Helper continues to hold hood vertical while you repeat the process on 
the other side
Objectives: don't let hood hit fenders, don't let hood hit the 
windshield or the metal windshield reveals to either side
Lift the hood (may need a little convincing to break away from nylon 
hinge holders) and set hood aside

Replacement of hood was different
Set two 2X3's or 2X4's across the engine to opposing fenders cushioned 
and padded where in contact with fenders
Make sure (CERTAIN) the new hood on both sides has the little plastic 
glides affixed to the area closest to the windscreen
Set the new hood on the timbers so that the rear hinge pin can be mated 
(aligned) with the rear most hood pin hole
Put a bit of grease on the hole nylon sleeve in the hinge and set the 
pin in place observing the pin slot orientation (a little notch in the 
pin that fits the slotted recess on the hood) careful tapping with 
hammer will be needed to drive it all the way in.
Wipe away all visible grease and set the retainer clip on the backside 
of the pin (interior of hood)
Have your helper carefully raise the hood from the nose of the car so 
that it is 4-5 feet off the ground (chest height) not too high or you 
hit things you do not want hit causing bending, cracking of paint, 
breaking of glass etc. etc. just enough to provide clearance and 
rotation of the forward hinge arm to mate with the forward hood hinge hole
Now using your free hand move the forward hinge hole into place with 
forward hole on the hood
Place the pin in place again observing the notch in the pin aligns with 
the groove in the outer hinge hole
Place the hinge retainer clip on the pin
Carefully  pull the hood from the nose forward (you'll feel resistance) 
and have your helper push the rear most corner of the hood (nearest 
windshield) downward to engage the chassis pin with the black plastic 
notched sleeve.
Repeat this process on the other side
Now remove the timbers and carefully lift the hood (heavy with no 
springs) until you reach the security latch point to either side and 
have your helper release driver's then passengers security latch so you 
can EVENLY raise the hood (helper assists) to full vertical lock point.
Last item is to re-install the springs on the hood and the chassis 
observing the previously installed chassis to hood tension notch
Carefully lower the hood (releasing security latch, driver side only 
required) to test alignment with fenders and front grill strips
This should be factory perfect once again and all that is left is to 
re-install all the wiring, hoses, clips, hood latch gear and front grill
Final step is to test the mating of the latches to the front rail 
mounted locks and their ease of release.

 I did this without the aid of a manual so the manual may do it an 
entirely different way which may be easier (better).  This was the 
removal of the destroyed 1986 300SE hood (hit be dear) and subsequent 
replacement using a 1990 300SE hood.  The electrics and wiper nozzle 
lines were entirely different between these two model years.  The metal 
work was a perfect match.  I did a color change (burgundy to white on 
the underside and top (obvious) and the hood pad will be the last bit of 
work.

Archived for anyone who needs this after a fender bender and they decide 
to do it themselves.  It may prove to be of some use.

Dick