[W126 Coupe] MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 26, Issue 12

[Arioli, Frederick]

1990 560SEC, radiator
Just replaced the Behr OEM replacement radiator after only three years in service.  The original lasted 13 years.  Was leaking around the left and right ends of the plastic tank.  Kept the old one with the idea of fabricating another out of all metal (brass/bronze) upper and lower tanks, and the radiator.  Has anyone ever heard of anyone doing this?
BTW, the rattling and squeaking behind the dash seemed to come from the two rotating AC vents in the middle above the console.  Seems like a few judicious squirts of silicone spray will silence this annoying sound.
Happy cruising :-) 

Frederick G. Arioli
frederick.arioli at lmco.com

-----Original Message-----
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Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:08 PM
To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com
Subject: MBCOUPES Digest, Vol 26, Issue 12

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: 1982 380SEC various issues (Dick Spellman)
   2. Re: 1982 380SEC various issues (Tad Heckaman)
   3. Re: 1982 380SEC various issues (Mister McGoo)
   4. HELP UNSCRIBING (Phil Shuman)
   5. HELP UNSUBSCRIBING (Phil Shuman)
   6. HELP UNSUB. (Phil Shuman)
   7. HELP ME UNSUB.; (Phil Shuman)
   8. UNSUB HELP PLEASE (Phil Shuman)
   9. fuel additive (clay)
  10. Re: Chain Jumped (Pavel)
  11. Re: Chain Jumped (Axel Wulff)
  12. Re: Chain Jumped (Jonathan Hodgman)
  13. Re: fuel additive (Dick Spellman)
  14. Re: 1982 380SEC various issues (Dick Spellman)
  15. 2007 East Coast Gathering (190 Girl)
  16. Re: Chain Jumped (Rgray1016 at aol.com)
  17. Re: Chain Jumped (Pavel)
  18. Re: 1982 380SEC various issues (Tad Heckaman)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:46:12 -0500
From: Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <457D9964.8090203 at verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Tad Heckaman wrote:

>> Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 

>> 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, 

>> not sure if thats normal. 

>>

>> A few other issues...

>> Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the 

>> antenna to do anything?

>> ... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new 

>> one in?

>> Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and 

>> theres fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or 

>> something. The pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is 

>> almost full.


Tad:

I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be 
operational to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the 
antenna.  Does your 82 have an Antenna switch for mast height in the 
console?  I'd pull the radio and check to see if the harness at rear is 
plugged in and getting power.  If you choose to keep the original radio 
there is a source that handles the Becker head unit and associated amps 
and fader repairs.  If you choose to replace with an aftermarket, this 
list will jump to life with all sorts of recommendations.

I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses are 
plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly behind the 
ic.  The clock is the first and easiest power source to check back 
there.  It's a single lead providing continuous +12vdc that attaches to 
a spade lug on the clock segment.  Check voltage between this lead and 
one of the ground points.  See what you get before working the ic repairs.

Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend some 
serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is equally likely 
the cam shafts and rockers have seen better days.  If on the other hand 
the dual chain conversion has been done I'd next inspect the chain rails 
and tips of the sprockets.  Look for cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of 
sprockets should not have sharp pointed edges, should be smooth with 
some meat at the tips to round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes 
for galling.  If the cams are galled the rockers are galled as well 
(rockers not easily viewed without light and mirror).  I have wet lapped 
a few cam lobes and replaced the respective rockers to eliminate a miss 
and a tick but, once the metals have started to go (scoring/galling) you 
are looking at more machine work or the need to replace the cams (about 
$800 each) plus the rockers (short money).  Again, I'd hold up on doing 
too much until you see the history on that engine from the dealer.

Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may be 
plugged with sediment, you will instantly need a new seal/grommet for 
the reservoir where the pump is seated.  So, I'd have one or two 
(headlamp washer line if equipped) ready when you do this fix.  You'll 
need to pull the battery and that's a good time to repair the batt tray 
and inspect underneath for corrosion or damage to the sway bar fitting 
that sits under the tray.  New tray is <$20US.

Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse power 
(380 US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer lasting motor with 
less dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500 (US 184 hp) IMHO.  
Preference on a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if you can find one.

-\Dick
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 13:54:28 -0500
From: "Tad Heckaman" <douglash at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues
To: "Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID:
	<55b8d9980612111054p3f1a2077k597258a54b9c3d02 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

On 12/11/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

>

>  Tad Heckaman wrote:

>

> Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 3

> when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if

> thats normal.

>

> A few other issues...

> Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the

> antenna to do anything?

> ... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new one in?

> Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and theres

> fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or something. The

> pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is almost full.

>

>

> Tad:

>

> I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

>

> Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be

> operational to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the antenna.

> Does your 82 have an Antenna switch for mast height in the console?  I'd

> pull the radio and check to see if the harness at rear is plugged in and

> getting power.  If you choose to keep the original radio there is a source

> that handles the Becker head unit and associated amps and fader repairs.  If

> you choose to replace with an aftermarket, this list will jump to life with

> all sorts of recommendations.

>


I wouldn't mind keeping the existing radio, kinda looks cool with all the
buttons on it. :)
I assume that to pull the radio I will have to remove some panels? I really
need to get a book on this car. From what it sounds like it has a separate
amp for the speakers... I wouldn't mind bypassing the entire radio and just
attach my ipod directly to the amp. Is that possible? Don't really need the
radio, although I should fix it sometime. I guess the ultimate fix for me
would be a small hidden audio jack somewhere that when plugged in, would
override the radio and allow me to play mp3s directly to the amp. Quality
would be better too.
Am I way out in left field here with the way I understand how the audio
system works?


I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses are

> plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly behind the ic.

> The clock is the first and easiest power source to check back there.  It's a

> single lead providing continuous +12vdc that attaches to a spade lug on the

> clock segment.  Check voltage between this lead and one of the ground

> points.  See what you get before working the ic repairs.

>


Well, I can hear the clock ticking, it just doesnt move very quickly, or at
all.

Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend some

> serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is equally likely the

> cam shafts and rockers have seen better days.  If on the other hand the dual

> chain conversion has been done I'd next inspect the chain rails and tips of

> the sprockets.  Look for cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of sprockets should

> not have sharp pointed edges, should be smooth with some meat at the tips to

> round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes for galling.  If the cams are

> galled the rockers are galled as well (rockers not easily viewed without

> light and mirror).  I have wet lapped a few cam lobes and replaced the

> respective rockers to eliminate a miss and a tick but, once the metals have

> started to go (scoring/galling) you are looking at more machine work or the

> need to replace the cams (about $800 each) plus the rockers (short money).

> Again, I'd hold up on doing too much until you see the history on that

> engine from the dealer.

>

Still waiting on a reply from the dealer, I am hoping all this has been
done.



Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may be plugged

> with sediment, you will instantly need a new seal/grommet for the reservoir

> where the pump is seated.  So, I'd have one or two (headlamp washer line if

> equipped) ready when you do this fix.  You'll need to pull the battery and

> that's a good time to repair the batt tray and inspect underneath for

> corrosion or damage to the sway bar fitting that sits under the tray.  New

> tray is <$20US.

>

> Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse power

> (380 US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer lasting motor with

> less dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500 (US 184 hp) IMHO.

> Preference on a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if you can find one.

>


How much does one of those engines cost normally? I assume its higher than
rebuilding/fixing up the old engine. But then, I would get more HP, which
cant hurt anything but gas mileage. :)

-\Dick

>

> The MB Coupes Website!

> W126 SEC Mailing List

> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

>



-- 
Tad Heckaman
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 18:55:42 +0000
From: Mister McGoo <eelploot at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <BAY102-W3BA5B5BB8DBB0F72ECAABCBD00 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Tad;
 
Another opinion........
 
The early 380 engines supplied to N. America in the SE, SEL and SEC were all with single timing chains.  Many were converted under a warrantee or limited warrantee, but it was essentially a "secret" warrantee.  M-B replaced lots of complete engines that suffered premature chain failures.
 
But having one of these engines doesn't mean they are scrap.  To check, remove one valve cover.  If yours is a single chain, install a new one and note that it should be replaced again every 30,000 miles to increase your chances of getting lots of service.  Let's face it, the engine is now 25 years old so it couldn't have been all THAT bad.
 
To convert the engine now would likely be foolish.  It isn't just changing the chain.  You must change all the sprockets and the front cover.  Some parts can be had used from a later 380, but it is still a big expensive job.  And Dick is right, if you are planning to do that, you'd want to renew everything questionable.
 
Take a cover off and confirm what you have.  Likely for comfort, you should replace whichever chain and guides there anyway.  Then enjoy your 380SEC.   And forget about beating the greasers and their crappy racing-ricers off the line, cause they'll beat the 500 too.  
 
You're driving a 25 year old classic! -Bellamy
_________________________________________________________________
Be one of the first to try Windows Live Mail.
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:40:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Shuman <pzapato at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [W126 Coupe] HELP UNSCRIBING
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <121088.45164.qm at web82309.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

WOULD SOMEBODY PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. I'VE FOLLOWED THE PROCEDURE AT THE MAIN WEB SITE 5 TIMES... OR GIVE ME A PHONE # OF SOMEONE THAT RUNS THE LIST SO I CAN CALL THEM AND PERHAPS DO IT THAT WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
  PZAPATO at SBCGLOBAL.NET

Mister McGoo <eelploot at hotmail.com> wrote:
      P  {  margin:0px;  padding:0px  }  body  {  FONT-SIZE: 10pt;  FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma  }    Tad;
 
Another opinion........
 
The early 380 engines supplied to N. America in the SE, SEL and SEC were all with single timing chains.  Many were converted under a warrantee or limited warrantee, but it was essentially a "secret" warrantee.  M-B replaced lots of complete engines that suffered premature chain failures.
 
But having one of these engines doesn't mean they are scrap.  To check, remove one valve cover.  If yours is a single chain, install a new one and note that it should be replaced again every 30,000 miles to increase your chances of getting lots of service.  Let's face it, the engine is now 25 years old so it couldn't have been all THAT bad.
 
To convert the engine now would likely be foolish.  It isn't just changing the chain.  You must change all the sprockets and the front cover.  Some parts can be had used from a later 380, but it is still a big expensive job.  And Dick is right, if you are planning to do that, you'd want to renew everything questionable.
 
Take a cover off and confirm what you have.  Likely for comfort, you should replace whichever chain and guides there anyway.  Then enjoy your 380SEC.   And forget about beating the greasers and their crappy racing-ricers off the line, cause they'll beat the 500 too.  
 
You're driving a 25 year old classic! 

-Bellamy

  
---------------------------------
  Be one of the first to try Windows Live Mail. The MB Coupes Website!
W126 SEC Mailing List
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:41:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Shuman <pzapato at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [W126 Coupe] HELP UNSUBSCRIBING
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <306076.58185.qm at web82305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

WOULD SOMEBODY PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. I'VE FOLLOWED THE PROCEDURE AT THE MAIN WEB SITE 5 TIMES... OR GIVE ME A PHONE # OF SOMEONE THAT RUNS THE LIST SO I CAN CALL THEM AND PERHAPS DO IT THAT WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
  PZAPATO at SBCGLOBAL.NET

Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:
  Tad Heckaman wrote:     Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if thats normal.  

A few other issues...
Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the antenna to do anything? 
... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new one in?
Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and theres fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or something. The pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is almost full. 

Tad:

I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be operational to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the antenna.  Does your 82 have an Antenna switch for mast height in the console?  I'd pull the radio and check to see if the harness at rear is plugged in and getting power.  If you choose to keep the original radio there is a source that handles the Becker head unit and associated amps and fader repairs.  If you choose to replace with an aftermarket, this list will jump to life with all sorts of recommendations.

I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses are plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly behind the ic.  The clock is the first and easiest power source to check back there.  It's a single lead providing continuous +12vdc that attaches to a spade lug on the clock segment.  Check voltage between this lead and one of the ground points.  See what you get before working the ic repairs.

Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend some serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is equally likely the cam shafts and rockers have seen better days.  If on the other hand the dual chain conversion has been done I'd next inspect the chain rails and tips of the sprockets.  Look for cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of sprockets should not have sharp pointed edges, should be smooth with some meat at the tips to round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes for galling.  If the cams are galled the rockers are galled as well (rockers not easily viewed without light and mirror).  I have wet lapped a few cam lobes and replaced the respective rockers to eliminate a miss and a tick but, once the metals have started to go (scoring/galling) you are looking at more machine work or the need to replace the cams (about $800 each) plus the rockers (short money).  Again, I'd hold up on doing too much until you see the history on that engine from the
 dealer.

Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may be plugged with sediment, you will instantly need a new seal/grommet for the reservoir where the pump is seated.  So, I'd have one or two (headlamp washer line if equipped) ready when you do this fix.  You'll need to pull the battery and that's a good time to repair the batt tray and inspect underneath for corrosion or damage to the sway bar fitting that sits under the tray.  New tray is <$20US.

Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse power (380 US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer lasting motor with less dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500 (US 184 hp) IMHO.  Preference on a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if you can find one.

-\Dick
The MB Coupes Website!
W126 SEC Mailing List
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
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Message: 6
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:41:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Shuman <pzapato at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [W126 Coupe] HELP UNSUB.
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <320220.65622.qm at web82311.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

WOULD SOMEBODY PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. I'VE FOLLOWED THE PROCEDURE AT THE MAIN WEB SITE 5 TIMES... OR GIVE ME A PHONE # OF SOMEONE THAT RUNS THE LIST SO I CAN CALL THEM AND PERHAPS DO IT THAT WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
  PZAPATO at SBCGLOBAL.NET

Axel Wulff <axelwulff at hotmail.com> wrote:
        You wrote:
  Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. 
  - Pull the instrument cluster and check all leads and circuits.
  Oil pressure goes past 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if thats normal. 
  - Normal.
  If its not, can I still get it converted to dual chain? Or is that too costly/not possible?
  - Yes, and its the same price as a timing chain change.
  Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the antenna to do anything?
  - Yes, the radio send a signal through the antenna switch. Without this signal the antenna won't work.

  Windshield washer fluid is not coming out.
  - Check all the hoses and blow through them with compressed air if necessary.





Regards,   
Axel J. Wulff   
610-731-5453 Cellular   
610-572-4611 Home   
  
  
  
    
---------------------------------
    
From:  "Tad Heckaman" <douglash at gmail.com>
Reply-To:  Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
To:  "Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Subject:  Re: [W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues
Date:  Mon, 11 Dec 2006 09:40:34 -0500
  



  On 12/11/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:   
  
  
  
     
     
  
  
Tad Heckaman wrote:   
  Replys below...
  
  
  
     On 12/9/06, Dick Spellman < 
spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:   
       
       Tad Heckaman wrote: 
       I just purchased a 1982 380SEC, and it   
runs great. There   
are a few little issues that I'd like to get fix.
  
      
  
      The first thing is the locks. I know they are vacuum   
based, but other   
than that I dont know much. Basically what happens is that when I lock   
the drivers door, either with the key or the lock itself, I hear the   
pump run, and all they all lock, but then the passenger/trunk/fuel   
unlock, and then they all lock. It never actually stops doing that (it   
did it for about 10 time before I decided enough was enough and pulled   
the drivers side lock back up to stop the endless lock/unlock cycle).   
Now this car did have a dead battery for a while, so perhaps some   
sensor needs to be reset? I am not sure.     
You'll need to read up on the simple 3-wire vacuum pump on your 82 SEC   
in the MB manual.  Pull the fuse for now from the engine compartment   
fuse box so you do not burn out that expensive pump in the trunk spare   
tire well.  Pick up a Mighty Vac ($30) and start with the vac line at   
the pump and work your way forward from trunk lid to gas cap to   
passenger door to driver's door to see if there is a slow leak or a   
break in the vac line.  I've seen many breaks at the point where the   
line passes through the door hing rubber seal.  Don't pump pressure   
above 10 inches on the Mighy Vac when testing  
       
  
    
     

  Purchased a mighty vac today, I   
will test the vacuum in the next few days. I didnt pull the fuse, I   
unplugged the pump in the back. Is that bad or should I go ahead and   
pull the fuse as well?     
  So long as the pump is not powered you are all set.   
  
  
  
Great. 

    
        
    The car idles low, and lags roughly for a second before 
the car 
accelerates. While idling, it also surges, almost like its idling so   
low than it revs itself to keep it from stalling. The previous owner   
said that the injectors were dirty from sitting for so long (probably   
sat for a year or 2, then he drove it everyday to work for a few months   
and then parked it again). He took it to our local MB dealership and   
also to a regular car shop and they said that it just needs to be run,   
with some injector cleaner in it. They recommended that if its   
'working' then dont touch the injection system. Is that all that it   
really needs, or should I take it in myself and have it checked? Is   
there anything I can check myself?  Well, you can start with 1 can   
of BG-44K  ($30 or less at MB   
dealer) and see if the performance improves.  If not, take it back the   
the MB dealership for a proepr run through or you will have to become   
somewhat expert in short order to do all that is required to diagnose   
and fix the engine and it's systems yourself.  
       
  
       
     

  I have already put a standard   
bottle of injector cleaner (Tekron brand I think). This morning its not   
doing the lag when revving the engine, so it already seems to be   
improving. The engine will start doing the surging after about 2-3 min   
of running from a cold-start, but it doesn't seem as bad. Whats the   
idle rpm supposed to be? Perhaps its too low?    
  Park or Neutral and coolant temp <42 C 750 rpm minimium; >42   
C 500 rpm minimum for 116 81/82 380 US.   
  
    
    
Thats what I am seeing for my RPMs, hopefully it will clear up on its own.

  

      
        
A gas gauge does not work, where should I 
look first to fix that (makes   
me worry that I will run out of gas at some point)
  
The radio/antenna does not work (I really want to replace the radio   
with something more modern, and if I want to upgrade in the future,   
having a working antenna would be nice) 
  
      The sunroof sometimes works (prev owner stated that alot   
of the   
electrical problems are just caused by poor contacts on the switches,   
and opening the dash and cleaning up the contacts on the switches would   
help) (hah) Start by ordering up a complete fuse replacement kit   
($10) and   
replace every fuse in the fuse box.  See what is then fixed and report   
back.  I would not dive into much of anything until the fuses are   
replaced.  
       
  
       
     Just replaced all the fuses, 
nearly ran autozone out of those types of fuses. Should I find a fuse   
replacement kit and do it with those, or did I effectively do the same   
thing by buying standard fuses?   
  Copper tipped fuses replaced every 10 years of the correct value   
and you should be all set.  Clean any fuse holders that were pitted or   
burnt with a qtip and sandpaper.
  
   Fuel gauge doesnt seem to be   
working yet either. Where is that sensor located? I suspect the car sat   
without fuel in the tank for a period of time, and perhaps the sensor   
rusted or froze up.  The sender is in the fuel tank behind the rear   
bucket seat driver's side.  Probably need a new sender and seal if as   
you say the car was let to sit with anything less than a full tank of   
fuel.   
  
    
    I guess I will have to get in there and take a look at it.
 

    
        
    Odometer does not work, title already states that its 'not 
actual', but 
can I get that fixed?  Fuses first and yes the speedo can be   
repaired if needed.  
       
  
       
       
       
       Since I have never had a MB before, this will be a great   
way for me to   
get familiar with how these cars are put together. I just replaced a   
few lights and the sealed beams (cant wait for euro lights later on,   
what a PAIN to replace those sealed beams), so now I can get it   
registered and on the road.  I'd suggest you have someone confirm   
that the timing chain on the   
380 motor has been converted to a dual chain before spending any $ on   
the SEC.  You need to get a copy of the MB Cd-Rom for service on your   
SEC ($20-40 as a guess).   
       
  
    
     

  I emailed the local MB dealership,   
where it was supposedly taken regularly for all its maintenance. Would   
the dealership automatically upgrade it to dual chain if they replaced   
the timing chain?  I'd sure hope so!    
The engine is junk if it's not dual chain.  And then try and obtain the   
mileage on the dual row chain, tensioners and guide rails since it was   
last done.  See what the dealership says.   
  
    
    If its not, can I still get it converted to dual chain? Or is that too costly/not possible?



    

      
        

Thanks for any replies!
  
-- 
  
Tad Heckaman   
      
Comments highlighted.  Good luck.  Dick  

---------------------------------
  
The MB Coupes Website!  
W126 SEC Mailing List  
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
  
      
       
  
    
  
The MB Coupes Website!
  
W126 SEC Mailing List
  
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
  
    
  
       
     
  
  Replys are inline, thanks for the   
replys!
  
  
  
  
  
-- 
  
Tad Heckaman   
  

---------------------------------
  
The MB Coupes Website!  
W126 SEC Mailing List  
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
  
    
You mention odometer not working.  Does everything else on the   
instrument cluster work except fuel guage?  Clock, tach, speedo all   
okay???   
    
Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if thats normal. 


A few other issues...
Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the antenna to do anything?   

... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new one in?
Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and theres fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or something. The pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is almost full.   


Thanks for the replys.



  

    
  
-\Dick
  
  
  
  
  

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Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

  



-- 
Tad Heckaman   
  

  >The MB Coupes Website!

>W126 SEC Mailing List

>Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

    
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:41:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Shuman <pzapato at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [W126 Coupe] HELP ME UNSUB.;
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <20061211194156.1217.qmail at web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

WOULD SOMEBODY PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. I'VE FOLLOWED THE PROCEDURE AT THE MAIN WEB SITE 5 TIMES... OR GIVE ME A PHONE # OF SOMEONE THAT RUNS THE LIST SO I CAN CALL THEM AND PERHAPS DO IT THAT WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
  PZAPATO at SBCGLOBAL.NET

Bill Reford <billreford at rogers.com> wrote:
          Thanks Dick
   
  Bill
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dick Spellman 
  To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists 
  Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 8:52 AM
  Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] IDLE SPEED CONTROL
  

Hi Bill:

It takes a little getting used to navigating but works well enough.  The url is:  http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb.asp

Regards,

Dick

Bill Reford wrote:   
Hi Dick,    I have a 85 500 SEC Euro, where would one find the euro epc site that you   mentioned.    Bill Reford  Canada  ----- Original Message -----   From: "Dick Spellman" <spell.yy at verizon.net>  To: "Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>  Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 9:52 AM  Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] IDLE SPEED CONTROL        
  
Hi James:    You should be able to check the euro epc site for the correct part #  assigned by MB for your euro 500SEC.  I believe your idle control amp  part # is 002 545 40 32 from the source that I checked.  There is a  difference in the US part # for the 500 and this is in the 40 being  replaced with a 33 as is the case on my 83 380 US SEC which is  interchangeable with a US 500.    Regards,    Dick    James Fletcher wrote:      
  
This is stamped on my 83 500 SEC euro  idle speed control box.    "Leerlaufdrehzahiregelung  Idle  Speed  Control  412.202.012.003  8Zyl.    12v  "    Non of the above match any of the part numbers you blokes have mentioned  !!!!!!  Do the euro,s have different part numbers?  James  Down Under    The MB Coupes Website!  W126 SEC Mailing List  Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.            

The MB Coupes Website!  W126 SEC Mailing List  Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.       

  The MB Coupes Website!  W126 SEC Mailing List  Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.      
    
---------------------------------
    
The MB Coupes Website!
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Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 11:42:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Shuman <pzapato at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [W126 Coupe] UNSUB HELP PLEASE
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <20061211194213.1683.qmail at web82303.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

WOULD SOMEBODY PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. I'VE FOLLOWED THE PROCEDURE AT THE MAIN WEB SITE 5 TIMES... OR GIVE ME A PHONE # OF SOMEONE THAT RUNS THE LIST SO I CAN CALL THEM AND PERHAPS DO IT THAT WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
  PZAPATO at SBCGLOBAL.NET

Ronny Geenen <ronny.geenen at verizon.net> wrote:
            I just bought about 2 month ago a car cover for my 560 SEC. I went to the mercedes dealer.
  I paid $208. It has the MB star on the front and the word mercedes on the left rear, but it is made by Noah.
  Well made 4 layer cover, soft and strong. I think when you by this Noah cover from somebody else you might find a lower price.
   
  Ronny Geenen
1987 560 SEC
  1984 300 SD
  
If you received this e-mail in error, please contact the sender via e-mail or at 626-914-6999 and destroy all copies of this message and any attachments. Thank you.
    ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Iain Gunn 
  To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com 
  Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:23 PM
  Subject: [W126 Coupe] 560 SEL
  

  Suggestions where to purchase a car cover for my 86 560SEL, that will stand the rigors of the winter in Canada would be greatly appreciated.
                                                                      Thanks, Iain
   
   
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.408 / Virus Database: 268.13.17/505 - Release Date: 10/27/2006

The MB Coupes Website!
W126 SEC Mailing List
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release Date: 12/9/2006 3:41 PM

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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 12:43:27 -0700
From: "clay" <benzman3 at cox.net>
Subject: [W126 Coupe] fuel additive
To: "mbcoupes" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <005201c71d5c$a0af53b0$ee5ae744 at clayton>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

I was thinking of running some through my car just for a slight and I mean very slight roughness every once and awhile and just read in 2 articles about BG-44 and KB-44 are there 2 different ones or someone has it wrong and where can you buy it,at the dealer or parts stores ?
Regards, Clay Moizo

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 13:45:14 CST
From: Pavel <zhur0002 at umn.edu>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Chain Jumped
To: Mercedes Web <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <200612111945.kBBJjEvv018615 at sarge.software.umn.edu>
Content-Type: TEXT/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII

 
Yeah I already have the new valve cover so will not need to buy that.  I
also already put it on for the time being so there will be no dust going
inside the motor.  I guess my question is if my pistons smashed the valves
is there going to be obvious damage to the heads like rockers laying
around, or bent, snaped cams? Another question was how likely is it when
your chain jumps that the piston will meet the valve? Or can everything
appear normal, so I will need to take out all the spark plugs and see where
the pistons are and if there is any damage to the top of them.
thanks
pavel



------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 15:02:12 -0500
From: "Axel Wulff" <axelwulff at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Chain Jumped
To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com
Message-ID: <BAY123-F2210B305ADB262774C19D1B1D00 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

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Message: 12
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 15:32:37 -0500
From: "Jonathan Hodgman" <jhodgman at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Chain Jumped
To: "Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID:
	<1d2f90170612111232p5bf604c5k164ed9bf36fb3cf at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Agreed, chances are slim that the car survied that w/o jumping time.  Most
likely a piece of chain guide got loose and wedged itself in b/w the gear
and the cover.

You can start by checking all the rockers to see if they are tight as you
turn the engine over...  you'll know pretty quick if you have an issue or
not.

Jonathan

-- 
1996 S600 Euro "Scharnhorst"
1991 560 SEC Full Euro ECE
1991 560 SEC 226Hp/271ft/lbs:)
1989 560 SEC AMG (N.America Conversion)
1987 560 SEC US Spec
1986 560 SEC Currently being Parted (check my page)
1986 560 SEL AMG 6.0L 32V
1986 560 SL  White on Burgundy
1985 500 SEL Euro (Parts Car)
1985 300 CD Blue on Blue
1980 280 SE Euro
1978 300D TMU
1987 560 SEL 162K Midnight Blue on Gray RIP:(
1992 E300D 140K Champagne on Parchment tex (Sold)
1990 560 SEC 154K Anthracite on Gray (Sold)
1988 300 TE 160K Burgundy on Palomino (Sold)
1980 280 SE US 185K (Sold)
2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp
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Message: 13
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 15:48:24 -0500
From: Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] fuel additive
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <457DC418.9040302 at verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Last time I looked it was bg-44k.  Available from MB dealer.

-\Dick

clay wrote:

> I was thinking of running some through my car just for a slight and I 

> mean very slight roughness every once and awhile and just read in 2 

> articles about BG-44 and KB-44 are there 2 different ones or someone 

> has it wrong and where can you buy it,at the dealer or parts stores ?

> Regards, Clay Moizo

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------

> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.

> It has removed 438 spam emails to date.

> Paying users do not have this message in their emails.

> Try SPAMfighter <http://www.spamfighter.com> for free now!

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

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> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.



------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 16:08:17 -0500
From: Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <457DC8C1.7040308 at verizon.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Tad:

Yes you need the cd-rom MB manual for the 126 chassis and you need the 
free Super Nervig Index that makes navigating the manual fast and easy.  
This group can walk you through any one of the elements you need to fix 
and I'd go on to say that when you pull something like the radio it's 
the right time to test all of the vacuum elements with that new 
MightyVac, check the vacuum switchng valve, replace the fiber node lamp 
behind their that lights up many of your switches and more.  So, pick a 
project and ask away.

I have cut (2) copies of the manual in recent days one for another 
mbcoupe type in Easton, MA and well, a spare.  If you live in the states 
and provide an address there is no telling what might show up in the mail.

BTW: I run an 83 380SEC and I am sitting on a pristine 500 motor for 
transplant because I've done all those inspections I laid out in the 
earlier post and I am facing a major repair job with cam shafts and 
more.  In my case the 500 motor was a bargain ($1 plus the cost of Acela 
train and lunch) and I drove the 500SEL beast 200+ miles from near 
Philly to Boston where it sits awaiting my attention.

Other thoughts...the electric heated washer nozzles may be fouled with 
car wax.  Just use a fine pin tip to clear each chrome nozzle (2 jets in 
each).  Clock...if you hear ticking but, it does not keep time, then 
it's (2) capacitors from Radio Shack (<$3) to fix.  Still need to 
investigate why other portions of the cluster are not operational.  
There is a kit for repairing the odometer gear yourself if needed.  
Pretty sure it's the same company that resells the seat belt arm 
presenter gears.

Dick

I naturally concur with Bellamy.  These are classics.Tad Heckaman wrote:

>

>

> On 12/11/06, *Dick Spellman* <spell.yy at verizon.net 

> <mailto:spell.yy at verizon.net>> wrote:

>

>     Tad Heckaman wrote:

>>>     Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes

>>>     past 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the

>>>     middle, not sure if thats normal. 

>>>

>>>     A few other issues...

>>>     Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for

>>>     the antenna to do anything?

>>>     ... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a

>>>     new one in?

>>>     Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running,

>>>     and theres fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its

>>>     clogged or something. The pump sounds like its running dry,

>>>     although the tank is almost full.

>

>     Tad:

>

>     I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

>

>     Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be

>     operational to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the

>     antenna.  Does your 82 have an Antenna switch for mast height in

>     the console?  I'd pull the radio and check to see if the harness

>     at rear is plugged in and getting power.  If you choose to keep

>     the original radio there is a source that handles the Becker head

>     unit and associated amps and fader repairs.  If you choose to

>     replace with an aftermarket, this list will jump to life with all

>     sorts of recommendations.

>

>

> I wouldn't mind keeping the existing radio, kinda looks cool with all 

> the buttons on it. :)

> I assume that to pull the radio I will have to remove some panels? I 

> really need to get a book on this car. From what it sounds like it has 

> a separate amp for the speakers... I wouldn't mind bypassing the 

> entire radio and just attach my ipod directly to the amp. Is that 

> possible? Don't really need the radio, although I should fix it 

> sometime. I guess the ultimate fix for me would be a small hidden 

> audio jack somewhere that when plugged in, would override the radio 

> and allow me to play mp3s directly to the amp. Quality would be better 

> too.

> Am I way out in left field here with the way I understand how the 

> audio system works?

>  

>

>     I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses

>     are plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly

>     behind the ic.  The clock is the first and easiest power source to

>     check back there.  It's a single lead providing continuous +12vdc

>     that attaches to a spade lug on the clock segment.  Check voltage

>     between this lead and one of the ground points.  See what you get

>     before working the ic repairs.

>

>

> Well, I can hear the clock ticking, it just doesnt move very quickly, 

> or at all.

>

>     Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend

>     some serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is

>     equally likely the cam shafts and rockers have seen better days. 

>     If on the other hand the dual chain conversion has been done I'd

>     next inspect the chain rails and tips of the sprockets.  Look for

>     cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of sprockets should not have sharp

>     pointed edges, should be smooth with some meat at the tips to

>     round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes for galling.  If the

>     cams are galled the rockers are galled as well (rockers not easily

>     viewed without light and mirror).  I have wet lapped a few cam

>     lobes and replaced the respective rockers to eliminate a miss and

>     a tick but, once the metals have started to go (scoring/galling)

>     you are looking at more machine work or the need to replace the

>     cams (about $800 each) plus the rockers (short money).  Again, I'd

>     hold up on doing too much until you see the history on that engine

>     from the dealer.

>

> Still waiting on a reply from the dealer, I am hoping all this has 

> been done.

>

>  

>

>     Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may

>     be plugged with sediment, you will instantly need a new

>     seal/grommet for the reservoir where the pump is seated.  So, I'd

>     have one or two (headlamp washer line if equipped) ready when you

>     do this fix.  You'll need to pull the battery and that's a good

>     time to repair the batt tray and inspect underneath for corrosion

>     or damage to the sway bar fitting that sits under the tray.  New

>     tray is <$20US.

>

>     Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse

>     power (380 US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer

>     lasting motor with less dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500

>     (US 184 hp) IMHO.  Preference on a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if

>     you can find one.

>

>

> How much does one of those engines cost normally? I assume its higher 

> than rebuilding/fixing up the old engine. But then, I would get more 

> HP, which cant hurt anything but gas mileage. :)

>

>     -\Dick

>

>     The MB Coupes Website!

>     W126 SEC Mailing List

>     Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

>

>

>

> -- 

> Tad Heckaman

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------

>

> The MB Coupes Website!

> W126 SEC Mailing List

> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

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Message: 15
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 18:45:31 -0500
From: "190 Girl" <190girl at earthlink.net>
Subject: [W126 Coupe] 2007 East Coast Gathering
To: <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <000601c71d7e$729683a0$6400a8c0 at EDR01>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi SEC Men,

Holidays are upon us but 2007 is not far behind.  What kind of interest level do we have for an East Coast meet, NJ preferred?  As many of you know we had a blast here in June 06 and it does take 3-4 months planning to prepare properly, do I hear any noise out there (besides grunting over repairs?)

Best Holiday Cheers,

Star Cruiser

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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 20:35:55 EST
From: Rgray1016 at aol.com
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Chain Jumped
To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com
Message-ID: <cb0.5db3036.32af617b at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

P
    whatever you do .... do NOT attemp to turn  engine over at all except 
gently by hand
    probable senario:
    valves bent or broken off.......w/ damage to head  and/or piston and/or 
cylinder
 
    depending on above... you may get away w only new  valves and guides all 
the way up to new engine
 
    you have to take it apart and look unless you have  a bore scope
 
    if the spark plugs don't "unscrew" then you're  probably screwed !
 
the good news.........
if you do the work yourself..... you'll know a lot about 117 engines
        take a lot of pics when  dis-assembling
bg

 
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Message: 17
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 21:03:46 CST
From: Pavel <zhur0002 at umn.edu>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Chain Jumped
To: Mercedes Web <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID: <200612120303.kBC33k5U028199 at sarge.software.umn.edu>
Content-Type: TEXT/plain; CHARSET=US-ASCII

 
Yeah, I'm not turning the motor over until I pull out all the rockers,
spark plugs take off the oil pan and put in a new tensioner.  What I assume
happened was a weak tensioner, records on car state that they used SAE
15w50 oil in it a no-no here in Minnesota when temp is about 15 deg F.  So
what i assume happened was they tried starting it tensioner did not get
enough pressure chain was loose took out one of the guide rails and jumped.
 What will happen to the car I will fix the motor then supercharge it using
mega squirt fuel EFI management system once I have that car and system
running good i will part that car out and put the engine in my 380. So if
anyone needs parts let me know, the car will be parted with in 6 month if
all goes well.


>From removing the valve covers I have found that everything is intact

except all the guide rails and timing rail is busted.  The tensioner has a
piece missing from its pressure cylinder.  The only damage I could see on
the head was a tiny piece was broken off where the tensioner goes into the
passenger side head, I think if I find it in my oil pan i can JB weld it or
even having that piece missing I do not think will effect how the car
operates, assuming the valves are not broken.  The timing chain has tons of
slack on the tensioner side of the chain.  I will start messing with it
during my winter break from school.
thanks
Pavel




------------------------------

Message: 18
Date: Mon, 11 Dec 2006 22:07:27 -0500
From: "Tad Heckaman" <douglash at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues
To: "Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists" <mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com>
Message-ID:
	<55b8d9980612111907n11ea5a3cg6c47615df4f76a60 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Well, I pulled the radio tonight and replaced the fuse in there, and now the
radio/antenna works fine. Radio has a cracked LCD, but it operates. Speakers
don't sound awesome, but they will do, considering how old they are.
I guess I will have to pull the radio out again to work on the vacuum
system, from the sounds of it. But thats a job for a weekend.

Today I took the car to get tagged, and since I didn't have the title
notarized, they wanted $900+ in taxes (6% off retail). I laughed at that and
left, I will have to go back and get the title notarized from the owner. The
car did pass the inspection, so thats good. Do they really think that the
retail value on the car is $15,000?

On replacing the engine with a 500, how will you put it in? Would a shop be
able to install the engine or is that something that only a dealer can/will
do?

When I took the car to get inspected, I noticed the engine still lags when
starting from a stop. Given time, I am hoping that this will clear up.

Thanks, Tad
6606 Bethany Lane
Louisville, KY 40272



On 12/11/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

>

>  Hi Tad:

>

> Yes you need the cd-rom MB manual for the 126 chassis and you need the

> free Super Nervig Index that makes navigating the manual fast and easy.

> This group can walk you through any one of the elements you need to fix and

> I'd go on to say that when you pull something like the radio it's the right

> time to test all of the vacuum elements with that new MightyVac, check the

> vacuum switchng valve, replace the fiber node lamp behind their that lights

> up many of your switches and more.  So, pick a project and ask away.

>

> I have cut (2) copies of the manual in recent days one for another mbcoupe

> type in Easton, MA and well, a spare.  If you live in the states and provide

> an address there is no telling what might show up in the mail.

>

> BTW: I run an 83 380SEC and I am sitting on a pristine 500 motor for

> transplant because I've done all those inspections I laid out in the earlier

> post and I am facing a major repair job with cam shafts and more.  In my

> case the 500 motor was a bargain ($1 plus the cost of Acela train and lunch)

> and I drove the 500SEL beast 200+ miles from near Philly to Boston where it

> sits awaiting my attention.

>

> Other thoughts...the electric heated washer nozzles may be fouled with car

> wax.  Just use a fine pin tip to clear each chrome nozzle (2 jets in each).

> Clock...if you hear ticking but, it does not keep time, then it's (2)

> capacitors from Radio Shack (<$3) to fix.  Still need to investigate why

> other portions of the cluster are not operational.  There is a kit for

> repairing the odometer gear yourself if needed.  Pretty sure it's the same

> company that resells the seat belt arm presenter gears.

>

> Dick

>

> I naturally concur with Bellamy.  These are classics.

>

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