[W126 Coupe] HELP UNSUBSCRIBING

[Phil Shuman]

WOULD SOMEBODY PLEASE UNSUBSCRIBE ME FROM THIS MAILING LIST. I'VE FOLLOWED THE PROCEDURE AT THE MAIN WEB SITE 5 TIMES... OR GIVE ME A PHONE # OF SOMEONE THAT RUNS THE LIST SO I CAN CALL THEM AND PERHAPS DO IT THAT WAY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THANKS
  PZAPATO at SBCGLOBAL.NET

Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:
  Tad Heckaman wrote:     Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 3 when the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if thats normal.  

A few other issues...
Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the antenna to do anything? 
... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new one in?
Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and theres fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or something. The pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is almost full. 

Tad:

I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be operational to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the antenna.  Does your 82 have an Antenna switch for mast height in the console?  I'd pull the radio and check to see if the harness at rear is plugged in and getting power.  If you choose to keep the original radio there is a source that handles the Becker head unit and associated amps and fader repairs.  If you choose to replace with an aftermarket, this list will jump to life with all sorts of recommendations.

I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses are plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly behind the ic.  The clock is the first and easiest power source to check back there.  It's a single lead providing continuous +12vdc that attaches to a spade lug on the clock segment.  Check voltage between this lead and one of the ground points.  See what you get before working the ic repairs.

Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend some serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is equally likely the cam shafts and rockers have seen better days.  If on the other hand the dual chain conversion has been done I'd next inspect the chain rails and tips of the sprockets.  Look for cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of sprockets should not have sharp pointed edges, should be smooth with some meat at the tips to round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes for galling.  If the cams are galled the rockers are galled as well (rockers not easily viewed without light and mirror).  I have wet lapped a few cam lobes and replaced the respective rockers to eliminate a miss and a tick but, once the metals have started to go (scoring/galling) you are looking at more machine work or the need to replace the cams (about $800 each) plus the rockers (short money).  Again, I'd hold up on doing too much until you see the history on that engine from the
 dealer.

Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may be plugged with sediment, you will instantly need a new seal/grommet for the reservoir where the pump is seated.  So, I'd have one or two (headlamp washer line if equipped) ready when you do this fix.  You'll need to pull the battery and that's a good time to repair the batt tray and inspect underneath for corrosion or damage to the sway bar fitting that sits under the tray.  New tray is <$20US.

Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse power (380 US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer lasting motor with less dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500 (US 184 hp) IMHO.  Preference on a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if you can find one.

-\Dick
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