[LargeFormat] Re: 4x5 Large format camera and lens

[Clive Warren]

Frank,

Have forwarded this to the list from Robert Lawrence as others may be 
interested:

>From: Robert Lawrence
>Subject: W/A Architectural Lenses
>
>  > I'm using a 4x5 large format camera w/ a 150 mm standard
>lensand bellows.  I
>  > would like to shoot architectural interiors, but I'm not sure which lens to
>  > use.  I have a wide angle bellows, wide angle monerail, and recessed lens
>  > board copal 0.  I plan to purchase a fujinon 75mm @ f8 lens and I 
>heard that
>  > a slow lens like this wouldn't give me full range of motion.  I 
>know that if
>  > I went with a Schneider 72XL 75mm @ 4.5 would give me a lot more movement
>  > with my camera but I find it a bit expensive.  Would the Fujinon be just
>  > what I need for this type of photography or should I wait and save for the
>  > faster lens?  Please help? Also,  would a 90mm @ 6.8f do the job?
>
>Dear Frank,
>
>I am a professional photographer based in UK using Sinar p2
>for architectural interior work. I have a Schneider 72XL
>f5.6 as well as a Sinaron (Sinar badged Rodenstock) 90mm
>f4.5 which I use virtually all the time and find them pretty
>good for most kinds of interior work.
>
>Perspective can be hard to keep control of on the 72XL
>although it does allow a very wide range of movements, I
>tend to use it in very tight spaces favouring the 90mm for
>more natural looking interiors where there is enough space.
>If you find yourself using wild movements on 72mm your
>interiors will not look very architectural!
>
>I don't really come across situations where excessive
>movements are required that often, because most interiors
>are truly 3D, scheimpflug movements and wide apertures don't
>really help and I find that I use f22-f32 to get the DOF
>that I need, so the faster lenses are nice to have, just in
>case, but the reality is indirect tilt is just about all
>you'll need for 90% of commercial interior work.
>
>The standard approach to interiors is to calculate the
>working aperture first based on the depth of field required
>then assess the shutter speed based on the predominant light
>source plus filtering needed and then filling in with flash
>(2 stops down); breaking the exposures down into parts to
>allow for proper compensation of different light sources if necessary.
>
>Because one is working at relatively small apertures the
>fill-in flash power needs to be quite high as you are
>normally pushing out two stops down measured two thirds into
>the interior.
>
>Some interiors I have shot recently have needed 4 minute
>exposures (Tungsten+80A) and 24 pops from two 1200 joule
>packs to expose properly, not to mention ND grads upside
>down to control foreground burnout! Although reciprocity
>failure on Polaroid after a tenth of a second is quite
>dramatic, they are still a fair guide (with experience).
>
>With a restricted budget I would put the 90mm into the
>armoury first and go for an image circle that allows
>adequate but not extreme movements then build the kit up on
>the back of successful assignments, for the odd ball shoot
>you can normally beg, borrow or rent a specialist lens.
>
>Hope that helps, Robert.
>
>PS I've copied Clive in on this in case he wants to forward
>it to the list, although I read all the digests I normally
>participate on the f32.net Forum.