From Fast Food Nation
telebob x
telebob@hotmail.com
Mon, 17 Dec 2001 17:57:16 -0600
In the potato fields and processing plants of Idaho, in the ranchlands east
of Colorado Springs, in the feedlots and slaughterhouses of the High Plains,
you can see the effects of fast food on the nation's rural life, its
environment, its workers, and its health. The fast food chains now stand
atop a huge food-industrial complex that has gained control of American
agriculture. During the 1980s, large multinationals—such as Cargill,
ConAgra, and IBP—were allowed to dominate one commodity market after
another. Farmers and cattle ranchers are losing their independence,
essentially becoming hired hands for the agribusiness giants or being forced
off the land. Family farms are now being replaced by gigantic corporate
farms with absentee owners. Rural communities are losing their middle class
and becoming socially stratified, divided between a small, wealthy elite and
large numbers of the working poor. Small towns that seemingly belong in a
Norman Rockwell painting are being turned into rural ghettos. The hardy,
independent farmers whom Thomas Jefferson considered the bedrock of American
democracy are a truly vanishing breed. The United States now has more prison
inmates than full-time farmers.
The fast food chains' vast purchasing power and their demand for a uniform
product have encouraged fundamental changes in how cattle are raised,
slaughtered, and processed into ground beef. These changes have made
meatpacking—once a highly skilled, highly paid occupation—into the most
dangerous job in the United States, performed by armies of poor, transient
immigrants whose injuries often go unrecorded and uncompensated. And the
same meat industry practices that endanger these workers have facilitated
the introduction of deadly pathogens, such as E. coli 0157:H7, into
America's hamburger meat, a food aggressively marketed to children. Again
and again, efforts to prevent the sale of tainted ground beef have been
thwarted by meat industry lobbyists and their allies in Congress. The
federal government has the legal authority to recall a defective toaster
oven or stuffed animal—but still lacks the power to recall tons of
contaminated, potentially lethal meat.
I do not mean to suggest that fast food is solely responsible for every
social problem now haunting the United States. In some cases (such as the
malling and sprawling of the West) the fast food industry has been a
catalyst and a symptom of larger economic trends. In other cases (such as
the rise of franchising and the spread of obesity) fast food has played a
more central role. By tracing the diverse influences of fast food I hope to
shed light not only on the workings of an important industry, but also on a
distinctively American way of viewing the world.
Elitists have always looked down at fast food, criticizing how it tastes and
regarding it as another tacky manifestation of American popular culture. The
aesthetics of fast food are of much less concern to me than its impact upon
the lives of ordinary Americans, both as workers and consumers. Most of all,
I am concerned about its impact on the nation's children. Fast food is
heavily marketed to children and prepared by people who are barely older
than children. This is an industry that both feeds and feeds off the young.
During the two years spent researching this book, I ate an enormous amount
of fast food. Most of it tasted pretty good. That is one of the main reasons
people buy fast food; it has been carefully designed to taste good. It's
also inexpensive and convenient. But the value meals, two-for-one deals, and
free refills of soda give a distorted sense of how much fast food actually
costs. The real price never appears on the menu.
The sociologist George Ritzer has attacked the fast food industry for
celebrating a narrow measure of efficiency over every other human value,
calling the triumph of McDonald's "the irrationality of rationality." Others
consider the fast food industry proof of the nation's great economic
vitality, a beloved American institution that appeals overseas to millions
who admire our way of life. Indeed, the values, the culture, and the
industrial arrangements of our fast food nation are now being exported to
the rest of the world. Fast food has joined Hollywood movies, blue jeans,
and pop music as one of America's most prominent cultural exports. Unlike
other commodities, however, fast food isn't viewed, read, played, or worn.
It enters the body and becomes part of the consumer. No other industry
offers, both literally and figuratively, so much insight into the nature of
mass consumption.
Hundreds of millions of people buy fast food every day without giving it
much thought, unaware of the subtle and not so subtle ramifications of their
purchases. They rarely consider where this food came from, how it was made,
what it is doing to the community around them. They just grab their tray off
the counter, find a table, take a seat, unwrap the paper, and dig in. The
whole experience is transitory and soon forgotten. I've written this book
out of a belief that people should know what lies behind the shiny, happy
surface of every fast food transaction. They should know what really lurks
between those sesame-seed buns. As the old saying goes: You are what you
eat.
Excerpted from Fast Food Nation. Copyright © 2001 by Eric Schlosser.
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