From petebagnall44 at hotmail.com Tue Dec 9 10:38:38 2008 From: petebagnall44 at hotmail.com (Peter Bagnall) Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 15:38:38 +0000 Subject: [R129 SL] Workshop manual for 2000 SL320 V6 Message-ID: Hi all, I have just bought a 2000 SL320 V6, I am very pleased with it. I have been searching for a workshop manual for it just so I can understand a bit more about the car. My usual sources (Haynes or Clymer) don't list one. So has anyone else found one? i'm in the UK but if they are available outside the UK that's fine. Regards, Pete _________________________________________________________________ Get Windows Live Messenger on your Mobile http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/msnnkmgl0010000001ukm/direct/01/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wadlowchris at hotmail.com Tue Dec 9 11:33:59 2008 From: wadlowchris at hotmail.com (chris wadlow) Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 16:33:59 +0000 Subject: [R129 SL] Workshop manual for 2000 SL320 V6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Pete, I hope you enjoy the car. If you do find a workshop manual please let me know. I have owned a 1990 500SL for 5yrs now and it is a great car and I enjoy it very much. When I first got it I went through the exercise of trying to find a manual but after a few false starts with dodgy e-bay CD's I gave up. The worst thing about Mercedes is that they are very mean with thier information. I dont know if they think that if you can't get a manual you will pay thier exhorbitant main dealer prices or what the reasoning behind the policy is. I also have a 2000 270ML so the problem is doubled for me. I do all my own routine servicing which is half the fun of owning such a car as the SL and so far I have been lucky with the reliability. The best advice I can give is to 1. Join the owners club (You can get a fair bit of info from reading the forum ). 2. find a good INDEPENDENT service garage and cultivate him so that when you have a question or two you can get a helping hand. I use a very good Russian web site (Its written in English) which is a parts list for all Mercedes models with exploded diagrams. The part numbers work here with main agents and make life much easier when you need to order parts. Good luck and regards, Chris From: petebagnall44 at hotmail.comTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comDate: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 15:38:38 +0000Subject: [R129 SL] Workshop manual for 2000 SL320 V6 Hi all, I have just bought a 2000 SL320 V6, I am very pleased with it. I have been searching for a workshop manual for it just so I can understand a bit more about the car. My usual sources (Haynes or Clymer) don't list one. So has anyone else found one? i'm in the UK but if they are available outside the UK that's fine. Regards,Pete Read amazing stories to your kids on Messenger. Try it Now! _________________________________________________________________ Are you a PC?? Upload your PC story and show the world http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/122465942/direct/01/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blueridgemb at gmail.com Tue Dec 9 12:59:06 2008 From: blueridgemb at gmail.com (Jonathan Hodgman) Date: Tue, 09 Dec 2008 12:59:06 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] Workshop manual for 2000 SL320 V6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <493EB1EA.1080209@gmail.com> Pete and Chris, Chris, I have the factory DVD's for your R129. A fairly decent manual given what MB has churned out in the past! Pete, the manual I have will cover your chassis etc, but not your engine.. The M112 did not come in the SL state side that I remember (but could be wrong..I've only seen M104 320SL's). However we could either get you into a copy of the WIS or the R129 and W140 service DVD's. Either one of those combinations will get you a World of information. Best Regards Jonathan -- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East www.blueridgemb.com Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning. 96 S600 Euro 91 560SEC ECE (for sale) 91 560 SEC Undergoing TT/GT28 conversion 88 300E AMG 89 190E 2.6 5sp (Mosselman TT waiting..) 89 300TE 88 560SEC AMG Euro ECE (parts) 89 560SEC AMG solid lifter 7K RPM Conv. 87 Hammer 6.0L 32V 86 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V From gstefandl at cox.net Sat Dec 13 16:05:52 2008 From: gstefandl at cox.net (gerhard stefandl) Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700 Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window Message-ID: <2F38743E58384E089286DF9DA4A56290@JerryPC> I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sautry at teknorapex.com Sat Dec 13 19:01:22 2008 From: sautry at teknorapex.com (sautry at teknorapex.com) Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800 Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until 12/15/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. From rob at robvonder.com Sat Dec 13 21:50:03 2008 From: rob at robvonder.com (Rob Vonderhaar) Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window In-Reply-To: <2F38743E58384E089286DF9DA4A56290@JerryPC> References: <2F38743E58384E089286DF9DA4A56290@JerryPC> Message-ID: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0@VMBX103.ihostexchange.net> Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-door.html Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction. After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly. If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then. Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VA PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :) From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mid-co at ix.netcom.com Sat Dec 13 22:26:05 2008 From: mid-co at ix.netcom.com (mid-co) Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600 Subject: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. In-Reply-To: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0@VMBX103.ihostexchange.net> References: <2F38743E58384E089286DF9DA4A56290@JerryPC> <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0@VMBX103.ihostexchange.net> Message-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3C555DB424736E0@AndrewPC> Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec window motors. I have a 1995 , sl 500. Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the Transmission is in reverse and under load ? ( no clicking when rolling backwards). Other than the clicking in reverse , the transmission shifts like it's brand new. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Bruce in Nashville. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From shiett at charter.net Sun Dec 14 00:29:00 2008 From: shiett at charter.net (Steven A Hiett) Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800 Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? Message-ID: <20081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net@steveiseuq03mz> Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL? Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with a good history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MB Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD, Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've not found is information about modifications and parts to boost the performance and reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Are there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living in Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not many (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. -Thanks, Steve Hiett -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhodgman at gmail.com Sun Dec 14 10:36:16 2008 From: jhodgman at gmail.com (Jonathan Hodgman) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? In-Reply-To: <20081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net@steveiseuq03mz> References: <20081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net@steveiseuq03mz> Message-ID: <1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706@mail.gmail.com> Hello Steve, Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6L varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbo setup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about. In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these cars faster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92. Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from the manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly. If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone fuel/spark management. Jonathan -- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning. Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the world. Located in the Greater Atlanta area. http://www.blueridgemb.com 404 805 1357 1996 S600 Euro 1991 560SEC Euro ECE 1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion 1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp 1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan 1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm 1988 300TE 1987 300E AMG 1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V 1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V 2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grwdew at bellsouth.net Sun Dec 14 12:46:03 2008 From: grwdew at bellsouth.net (Gail & Doug Wolvington) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 11:46:03 -0600 Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? References: Message-ID: My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I can see. After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start up. Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep windshield from fogging but is bit chilly. any suggestions? Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl Bossier City, LA grwdew at bellsouth.net From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to r129list at mbcoupes.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to r129list-request at mbcoupes.com You can reach the person managing the list at r129list-owner at mbcoupes.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..." Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. (sautry at teknorapex.com) 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar) 4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700 From: "gerhard stefandl" Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: Message-ID: <2F38743E58384E089286DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800 From: sautry at teknorapex.com Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. To: SL Mailing List Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until 12/15/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500 From: Rob Vonderhaar Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: SL Mailing List Message-ID: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchange.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-door.html Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction. After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly. If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then. Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VA PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :) From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600 From: "mid-co" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. To: "SL Mailing List" Message-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec window motors. I have a 1995 , sl 500. Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the Transmission is in reverse and under load ? ( no clicking when rolling backwards). Other than the clicking in reverse , the transmission shifts like it's brand new. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Bruce in Nashville. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800 From: "Steven A Hiett" Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: Message-ID: <20081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL? Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with a good history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MB Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD, Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've not found is information about modifications and parts to boost the performance and reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Are there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living in Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not many (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. -Thanks, Steve Hiett -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500 From: "Jonathan Hodgman" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: "SL Mailing List" Message-ID: <1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello Steve, Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6L varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbo setup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about. In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these cars faster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92. Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from the manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly. If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone fuel/spark management. Jonathan -- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning. Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the world. Located in the Greater Atlanta area. http://www.blueridgemb.com 404 805 1357 1996 S600 Euro 1991 560SEC Euro ECE 1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion 1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp 1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan 1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm 1988 300TE 1987 300E AMG 1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V 1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V 2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 *************************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: multipart/alternative Size: 0 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM From satish at tummala.net Sun Dec 14 15:00:03 2008 From: satish at tummala.net (Satish Tummala) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008c01c95e26$8db04f00$a910ed00$@net> Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when the defroster is on. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Gail & Doug Wolvington Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I can see. After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start up. Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep windshield from fogging but is bit chilly. any suggestions? Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl Bossier City, LA grwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV> From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to r129list at mbcoupes.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairli st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> You can reach the person managing the list at r129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..." Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. (sautry at teknorapex.com) &n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar) 4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman) ------------------------------------------------------ ---------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700 From: "gerhard stefandl" Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: /20081213/e6c3dcd5/attachment.html> -------------------------- ---- Message: 2 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800 From: sautry at teknorapex.com Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID: rapex.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until 12/15/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500 From: Rob Vonderhaar Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene t> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d oor.html Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction. After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly. If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then. Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VA PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :) From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A> [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: 20081213/f76adcd7/attachment.htm> ---------------------------- -- Message: 4 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600 From: "mid-co" Subject : Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3 C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec window motors. I have a 1995 , sl 500. Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the Transmission is in reverse and under load ? ( no clicking when rolling backwards). Other than the clicking in reverse , the transmission shifts like it's brand new. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Bruce in Nashville. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ments/20081213/d6d93843/attachment-0001.html> ---------------- -------------- Message: 5 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800 From: "Steven A Hiett" Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: Messa ge-ID: <20 081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz> Content-T ype: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL? Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with a good history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MB Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD, Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've not found is information about modifications and parts to boost the performance and reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Are there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living in Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not many (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. ; -Thanks, Steve Hiett -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: 20081213/2531bc9f/attachment.htm> ---------------------------- -- Message: 6 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500 From: "Jonathan Hodgman" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: < 1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com> Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello Steve, Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6L varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbo setup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about. In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these cars faster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92. Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from the manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly. If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone fuel/spark management. Jonathan -- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning. Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the world. Located in the Greater Atlanta area. http://www.blueridgemb.com 404 805 1357 1996 S600 Euro 1991 560SEC Euro ECE 1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion 1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp 1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan 1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm 1988 300TE 1987 300E AMG 1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V 1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V 2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ments/20081214/1a2578ed/attachment-0001.html> End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 *************************************** _____ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wadlowchris at hotmail.com Sun Dec 14 15:00:50 2008 From: wadlowchris at hotmail.com (chris wadlow) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:00:50 +0000 Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? In-Reply-To: <008c01c95e26$8db04f00$a910ed00$@net> References: <008c01c95e26$8db04f00$a910ed00$@net> Message-ID: Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in your heater matrix. Is the engine loosing coolant ? Chris. From: satish at tummala.netTo: grwdew at bellsouth.net; r129list at mbcoupes.comDate: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when the defroster is on. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Gail & Doug WolvingtonSent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PMTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comSubject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I can see. After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start up. Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep windshield from fogging but is bit chilly. any suggestions? Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl Bossier City, LAgrwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV> From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions tor129list at mbcoupes.comTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visithttp://www.pairli st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129listor, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' tor129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A>You can reach the person managing the list atr129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..."Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. (sautry at teknorapex.com) &n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar) 4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman)------------------------------------------------------ ----------------Message: 1Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700From: "gerhard stefandl" Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowTo: Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism.Thanks for the help.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: -------------------------- ----Message: 2Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800From: sautry at teknorapex.comSubject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out ofthe office.To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID:Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCIII will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until12/15/2008.I will respond to your message when I return.------------------------------Message: 3Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500From: Rob Vonderhaar Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowTo: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID:<2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene t>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d oor.htmlCan't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction.After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly.If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then.Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VAPS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :)From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A> [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandlSent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PMTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comSubject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowI have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism.Thanks for the help.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------------------- --Message: 4Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600From: "mid-co" Subject : Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only.To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3 C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elecwindow motors.I have a 1995 , sl 500.Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when theTransmission is in reverse and under load ?( no clicking when rolling backwards).Other than the clicking in reverse , thetransmission shifts like it's brand new.Thanks in advance for your thoughts.Bruce in Nashville.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------- --------------Message: 5Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800From: "Steven A Hiett" Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?To: Messa ge-ID:<20 081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>Content-T ype: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL?Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with agood history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MBService info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD,Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanksBooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've notfound is information about modifications and parts to boost the performanceand reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialtyshop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Arethere articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living inCentral Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but notmany (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. ; -Thanks, Steve Hiett-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------------------- --Message: 6Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500From: "Jonathan Hodgman" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID:< 1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Hello Steve,Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6Lvarient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbosetup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working oncentrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about.In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these carsfaster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92.Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from themanifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly.If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alonefuel/spark management.Jonathan-- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG EastOffering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of theworld.Located in the Greater Atlanta area.http://www.blueridgemb.com404 805 13571996 S600 Euro1991 560SEC Euro ECE1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm1988 300TE1987 300E AMG1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3*************************************** No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM _________________________________________________________________ Get a bird?s eye view of the world with Multimap http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/115454059/direct/01/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From satish at tummala.net Sun Dec 14 15:05:29 2008 From: satish at tummala.net (Satish Tummala) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:05:29 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? In-Reply-To: References: <008c01c95e26$8db04f00$a910ed00$@net> Message-ID: <009d01c95e27$5076fac0$f164f040$@net> He states that he's getting heat on both sides of the windshield. That heat needs to be dehumidified; hence the A/C compressor should be engaged and the system fully charged, otherwise, the defroster won't be very effective. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of chris wadlow Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 3:01 PM To: SL Mailing List Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in your heater matrix. Is the engine loosing coolant ? Chris. _____ From: satish at tummala.net To: grwdew at bellsouth.net; r129list at mbcoupes.com Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500 Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when the defroster is on. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Gail & Doug Wolvington Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I can see. After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start up. Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep windshield from fogging but is bit chilly. any suggestions? Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl Bossier City, LA grwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV> From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to r129list at mbcoupes.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairli st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> You can reach the person managing the list at r129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..." Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. (sautry at teknorapex.com) &n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar) 4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman) ------------------------------------------------------ ---------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700 From: "gerhard stefandl" Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: /20081213/e6c3dcd5/attachment.html> -------------------------- ---- Message: 2 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800 From: sautry at teknorapex.com Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID: rapex.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until 12/15/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500 From: Rob Vonderhaar Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene t> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d oor.html Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction. After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly. If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then. Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VA PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :) From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A> [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: 20081213/f76adcd7/attachment.htm> ---------------------------- -- Message: 4 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600 From: "mid-co" Subject : Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3 C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec window motors. I have a 1995 , sl 500. Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the Transmission is in reverse and under load ? ( no clicking when rolling backwards). Other than the clicking in reverse , the transmission shifts like it's brand new. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Bruce in Nashville. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ments/20081213/d6d93843/attachment-0001.html> ---------------- -------------- Message: 5 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800 From: "Steven A Hiett" Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: Messa ge-ID: <20 081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz> Content-T ype: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL? Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with a good history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MB Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD, Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've not found is information about modifications and parts to boost the performance and reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Are there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living in Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not many (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. ; -Thanks, Steve Hiett -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: 20081213/2531bc9f/attachment.htm> ---------------------------- -- Message: 6 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500 From: "Jonathan Hodgman" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: < 1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com> Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello Steve, Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6L varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbo setup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about. In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these cars faster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92. Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from the manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly. If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone fuel/spark management. Jonathan -- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning. Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the world. Located in the Greater Atlanta area. http://www.blueridgemb.com 404 805 1357 1996 S600 Euro 1991 560SEC Euro ECE 1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion 1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp 1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan 1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm 1988 300TE 1987 300E AMG 1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V 1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V 2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ments/20081214/1a2578ed/attachment-0001.html> End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 *************************************** _____ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM _____ Great search results, great prizes. BigSnapSearch.com Search now -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grwdew at bellsouth.net Sun Dec 14 15:07:49 2008 From: grwdew at bellsouth.net (Gail & Doug Wolvington) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 14:07:49 -0600 Subject: [R129 SL] R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 5 References: Message-ID: <432EC4D9B23941A18D1C5A502C39A6BA@D4HZHVC1> 1991 300sl defrost problem I have tried having compressor on, did not help. I have not seen an coolant leaks nor is the heater core leaking. Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl grwdew at bellsouth.net From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 2:03 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 5 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to r129list at mbcoupes.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to r129list-request at mbcoupes.com You can reach the person managing the list at r129list-owner at mbcoupes.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: 1991 300sl, defrost problem? (chris wadlow) 2. Re: 1991 300sl, defrost problem? (Satish Tummala) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:00:50 +0000 From: chris wadlow Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? To: SL Mailing List Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in your heater matrix. Is the engine loosing coolant ? Chris. From: satish at tummala.netTo: grwdew at bellsouth.net; r129list at mbcoupes.comDate: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when the defroster is on. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Gail & Doug WolvingtonSent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PMTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comSubject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I can see. After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start up. Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep windshield from fogging but is bit chilly. any suggestions? Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl Bossier City, LAgrwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV> From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions tor129list at mbcoupes.comTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visithttp://www.pairli st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129listor, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' tor129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A>You can reach the person managing the list atr129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..."Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. (sautry at teknorapex.com) &n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar) 4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman)------------------------------------------------------ ----------------Message: 1Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700From: "gerhard stefandl" Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowTo: Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism.Thanks for the help.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: -------------------------- ----Message: 2Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800From: sautry at teknorapex.comSubject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out ofthe office.To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID:Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US- ASCIII will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until12/15/2008.I will respond to your message when I return.------------------------------Message: 3Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500From: Rob Vonderhaar Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowTo: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID:<2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene t>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d oor.htmlCan't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction.After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also dest royed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly.If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then.Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VAPS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :)From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A> [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandlSent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PMTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comSubject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowI have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism.Thanks for the help.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------------------- --Message: 4Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600From: "mid-co" Subject : Re: [R129 S L] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only.To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3 C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elecwindow motors.I have a 1995 , sl 500.Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when theTransmission is in reverse and under load ?( no clicking when rolling backwards).Other than the clicking in reverse , thetransmission shifts like it's brand new.Thanks in advance for your thoughts.Bruce in Nashville.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------- --------------Message: 5Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800From: "Steven A Hiett" Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?To: Messa ge-ID:<20 081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>Content-T ype: text/plai n; charset="us-ascii"Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL?Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with agood history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MBService info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD,Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanksBooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've notfound is information about modifications and parts to boost the performanceand reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialtyshop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Arethere articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living inCentral Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but notmany (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. ; -Thanks, Steve Hiett-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------------------- --Message: 6Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500From: "Jonathan Hodgman" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID:< 1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Hello Steve,Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6Lvarient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbosetup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working oncentrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about.In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these carsfaster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92.Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from themanifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly.If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alonefuel/spark management.Jonathan-- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG EastOffering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of theworld.Located in the Greater Atlanta area.http://www.blueridgemb.com404 805 13571996 S600 Euro1991 560SEC Euro ECE1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm1988 300TE1987 300E AMG1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3*************************************** No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM _________________________________________________________________ Get a bird?s eye view of the world with Multimap http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/115454059/direct/01/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:05:29 -0500 From: "Satish Tummala" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? To: "'SL Mailing List'" Message-ID: <009d01c95e27$5076fac0$f164f040$@net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" He states that he's getting heat on both sides of the windshield. That heat needs to be dehumidified; hence the A/C compressor should be engaged and the system fully charged, otherwise, the defroster won't be very effective. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of chris wadlow Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 3:01 PM To: SL Mailing List Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in your heater matrix. Is the engine loosing coolant ? Chris. _____ From: satish at tummala.net To: grwdew at bellsouth.net; r129list at mbcoupes.com Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500 Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when the defroster is on. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Gail & Doug Wolvington Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I can see. After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start up. Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep windshield from fogging but is bit chilly. any suggestions? Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl Bossier City, LA grwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV> From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to r129list at mbcoupes.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairli st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> You can reach the person managing the list at r129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..." Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. (sautry at teknorapex.com) &n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar) 4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman) ------------------------------------------------------ ---------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700 From: "gerhard stefandl" Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: /20081213/e6c3dcd5/attachment.html> -------------------------- ---- Message: 2 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800 From: sautry at teknorapex.com Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID: rapex.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until 12/15/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500 From: Rob Vonderhaar Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene t> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d oor.html Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction. After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly. If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then. Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VA PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :) From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A> [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: 20081213/f76adcd7/attachment.htm> ---------------------------- -- Message: 4 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600 From: "mid-co" Subject : Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3 C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec window motors. I have a 1995 , sl 500. Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the Transmission is in reverse and under load ? ( no clicking when rolling backwards). Other than the clicking in reverse , the transmission shifts like it's brand new. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Bruce in Nashville. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ments/20081213/d6d93843/attachment-0001.html> ---------------- -------------- Message: 5 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800 From: "Steven A Hiett" Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: Messa ge-ID: <20 081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz> Content-T ype: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL? Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with a good history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MB Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD, Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've not found is information about modifications and parts to boost the performance and reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Are there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living in Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not many (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. ; -Thanks, Steve Hiett -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: 20081213/2531bc9f/attachment.htm> ---------------------------- -- Message: 6 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500 From: "Jonathan Hodgman" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: < 1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com> Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello Steve, Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6L varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbo setup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about. In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these cars faster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92. Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from the manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly. If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone fuel/spark management. Jonathan -- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning. Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the world. Located in the Greater Atlanta area. http://www.blueridgemb.com 404 805 1357 1996 S600 Euro 1991 560SEC Euro ECE 1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion 1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp 1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan 1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm 1988 300TE 1987 300E AMG 1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V 1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V 2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ments/20081214/1a2578ed/attachment-0001.html> End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 *************************************** _____ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM _____ Great search results, great prizes. BigSnapSearch.com Search now -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 5 *************************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.18/1848 - Release Date: 12/14/2008 12:28 PM -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: multipart/alternative Size: 0 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.18/1848 - Release Date: 12/14/2008 12:28 PM From grwdew at bellsouth.net Sun Dec 14 16:41:50 2008 From: grwdew at bellsouth.net (Gail & Doug Wolvington) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:41:50 -0600 Subject: [R129 SL] R129 defroster problem References: Message-ID: <5863844BEB274486BB6A8B7A08151C56@D4HZHVC1> My husband, said he thought, he did not hear the compressor coming on. Gail & Doug Wolvington grwdew at bellsouth.net From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 2:03 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 5 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to r129list at mbcoupes.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to r129list-request at mbcoupes.com You can reach the person managing the list at r129list-owner at mbcoupes.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: 1991 300sl, defrost problem? (chris wadlow) 2. Re: 1991 300sl, defrost problem? (Satish Tummala) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 20:00:50 +0000 From: chris wadlow Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? To: SL Mailing List Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in your heater matrix. Is the engine loosing coolant ? Chris. From: satish at tummala.netTo: grwdew at bellsouth.net; r129list at mbcoupes.comDate: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when the defroster is on. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Gail & Doug WolvingtonSent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PMTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comSubject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I can see. After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start up. Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep windshield from fogging but is bit chilly. any suggestions? Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl Bossier City, LAgrwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV> From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions tor129list at mbcoupes.comTo subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visithttp://www.pairli st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129listor, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' tor129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A>You can reach the person managing the list atr129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR>When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specificthan "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..."Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. (sautry at teknorapex.com) &n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar) 4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman)------------------------------------------------------ ----------------Message: 1Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700From: "gerhard stefandl" Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowTo: Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism.Thanks for the help.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: -------------------------- ----Message: 2Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800From: sautry at teknorapex.comSubject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out ofthe office.To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID:Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US- ASCIII will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until12/15/2008.I will respond to your message when I return.------------------------------Message: 3Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500From: Rob Vonderhaar Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowTo: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID:<2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene t>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d oor.htmlCan't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction.After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also dest royed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly.If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then.Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VAPS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :)From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A> [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandlSent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PMTo: r129list at mbcoupes.comSubject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky windowI have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism.Thanks for the help.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------------------- --Message: 4Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600From: "mid-co" Subject : Re: [R129 S L] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only.To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3 C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elecwindow motors.I have a 1995 , sl 500.Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when theTransmission is in reverse and under load ?( no clicking when rolling backwards).Other than the clicking in reverse , thetransmission shifts like it's brand new.Thanks in advance for your thoughts.Bruce in Nashville.-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------- --------------Message: 5Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800From: "Steven A Hiett" Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?To: Messa ge-ID:<20 081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz>Content-T ype: text/plai n; charset="us-ascii"Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL?Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with agood history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MBService info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD,Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanksBooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've notfound is information about modifications and parts to boost the performanceand reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialtyshop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Arethere articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living inCentral Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but notmany (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. ; -Thanks, Steve Hiett-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: ---------------------------- --Message: 6Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500From: "Jonathan Hodgman" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO?To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID:< 1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com>Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"Hello Steve,Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6Lvarient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbosetup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working oncentrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about.In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these carsfaster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92.Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from themanifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly.If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alonefuel/spark management.Jonathan-- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG EastOffering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning.Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of theworld.Located in the Greater Atlanta area.http://www.blueridgemb.com404 805 13571996 S600 Euro1991 560SEC Euro ECE1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm1988 300TE1987 300E AMG1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp-------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3*************************************** No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM _________________________________________________________________ Get a bird?s eye view of the world with Multimap http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/115454059/direct/01/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:05:29 -0500 From: "Satish Tummala" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? To: "'SL Mailing List'" Message-ID: <009d01c95e27$5076fac0$f164f040$@net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" He states that he's getting heat on both sides of the windshield. That heat needs to be dehumidified; hence the A/C compressor should be engaged and the system fully charged, otherwise, the defroster won't be very effective. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of chris wadlow Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 3:01 PM To: SL Mailing List Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in your heater matrix. Is the engine loosing coolant ? Chris. _____ From: satish at tummala.net To: grwdew at bellsouth.net; r129list at mbcoupes.com Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 15:00:03 -0500 Subject: Re: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? Are you certain that the A/C compressor is engaging? It should be on when the defroster is on. From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Gail & Doug Wolvington Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 12:46 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] 1991 300sl, defrost problem? My 1991 300sl has a new problem, now that it has gotten cooler. When it is cold the windshield fogs up, I put it on defrost does not get any better on drivers side (it is putting out warm-hot air on both sides on windshield.) I have tried have just warm air only coming out on windshield & then tried on windshield-floor button. Fog up so bad hard to see & keep it wiped so I can see. After some time it will clear up & then its fine.....problem occurs on start up. Lately, I have tried not to have any heat coming out, that seems to keep windshield from fogging but is bit chilly. any suggestions? Gail & Doug Wolvington 1991 300sl Bossier City, LA grwdew at bellsouth.net< /DIV> From: r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2008 11:15 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 Send R129LIST mailing list submissions to r129list at mbcoupes.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pairli st.net/mailman/listinfo/r129list or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to r129list-request at mbcoupes.com< /A> You can reach the person managing the list at r129list-owner at mbcoupes.com< BR> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of R129LIST digest..." Today's Topics: 1. r129 sticky window (gerhard stefandl) 2. STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. (sautry at teknorapex.com) &n bsp; 3. Re: r129 sticky window (Rob Vonderhaar) 4. Re: r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. (mid-co) 5. How to make it GO? (Steven A Hiett) 6. Re: How to make it GO? (Jonathan Hodgman) ------------------------------------------------------ ---------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:05:52 -0700 From: "gerhard stefandl" Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: Messa ge-ID: <2F38743E58384E08928 6DF9DA4A56290 at JerryPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: /20081213/e6c3dcd5/attachment.html> -------------------------- ---- Message: 2 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 16:01:22 -0800 From: sautry at teknorapex.com Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID: rapex.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII I will be out of the office starting 12/12/2008 and will not return until 12/15/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:50:03 -0500 From: Rob Vonderhaar Subject: Re: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window To: SL Mailing List Messa ge-ID: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E74B0 at VMBX103.ihostexchangene t> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Here's a link to step-by-step instructions for removing an R129 door panel (even includes color photos!). I've used these myself and they're perfect: http://www.astro-nut.com/mb-d oor.html Can't give you much advice about the mechanism without first getting the door panel off and taking a look. You'll probably find a problem with either the motor or regulator. I had similar trouble with my '95 where I first started getting a loud metallic "clank" sound when the driver-side window reached the full-down position. The problem continued to get worse until the window jammed about halfway down and wouldn't move in either direction. After pulling the door panel, the problem turned out to be the window motor itself, which mounts to the inside of the door frame with three bolts (the regulator is actually riveted to the door frame). The OEM Bosch motor had a black molded plastic body - the bolts pass through the holes in the door frame, then through some metal standoffs/spacers about ?" long, and finally into plastic 'posts' in the motor body. An incredibly stupid design, because there's huge torque on those three motor mounts as the tiny motor gear drives the window regulator up and down. Eventually, the plastic posts into which the mounting bolts fit cracked into pieces (I found several at the bottom of the door cavity), and this lets the motor flex or even move when torque is applied. The 'clank' sound turned out to be the motor gear jumping its teeth against the regulator, which also destroyed the gear teeth over time. Only fix was to replace the whole motor assembly. If you do find yours broken this way, shop around: I located a used motor on eBay from a 1992 SL at about half the cost, but more importantly, it turned out to be made by a different OEM in the earlier cars and had a nice cast metal body instead of the cheap plastic used on the newer cars (plastic is also used on new replacement motors). The metal body also didn't require the use of spacers, so the whole assembly is much stronger and more stable. While I had everything apart, I also re-greased the regulator gear and the vertical tracks until I could manually pull the glass up and down smoothly and with little effort. It works like new, and no more problems since then. Hope this helps! Rob Vonderhaar Leesburg, VA PS - If you haven't done it yet, you might want to think about replacing the door strap at the same time. It's a $25 part that frequently breaks on the older cars, and takes only minutes to replace while you've got the door torn apart. Otherwise, you'll have the fun of ripping it all apart again later like I did... :) From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com< /A> [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl Sent: Saturday, December 13, 2008 4:06 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] r129 sticky window I have a '94 sl500 and suddenly the window jams when I lower it. I'm figuring that the drive mechanism is worn, but I can't get the door panel off , and am afraid to yank on it too much, for fear of cracking it. Can anyone advise how this is done. Also, does anyone have advise about the window mechanism. Thanks for the help. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: 20081213/f76adcd7/attachment.htm> ---------------------------- -- Message: 4 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:26:05 -0600 From: "mid-co" Subject : Re: [R129 SL] r129 Transmission "clicks" in reverse only. To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: <09CD2C3E3B5248DFB3 C555DB424736E0 at AndrewPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Thanks for the good advice on the 129 elec window motors. I have a 1995 , sl 500. Has anyone experienced a "clicking" when the Transmission is in reverse and under load ? ( no clicking when rolling backwards). Other than the clicking in reverse , the transmission shifts like it's brand new. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. Bruce in Nashville. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ments/20081213/d6d93843/attachment-0001.html> ---------------- -------------- Message: 5 Date: Sat, 13 Dec 2008 21:29:00 -0800 From: "Steven A Hiett" Subject: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: Messa ge-ID: <20 081214052903.DLO128.aarprv06.charter.net at steveiseuq03mz> Content-T ype: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, Where and how can I obtain information about souping up our 1992 SL? Recently we purchased a 1992 500SL w/92,000 miles. Though clean and with a good history it required some catch-up maintenance. After running the MB Service info gauntlet we now have enough information (factory authorized CD, Service introduction manual for the 1990 SL series - thanks BooksForCars.com) to address most normal service issues. What I've not found is information about modifications and parts to boost the performance and reliability. What standard formulas would a professional MB specialty shop employ that a handy enthusiast might be able to do on their own? Are there articles available where these Pros share their knowledge? Living in Central Washington offers plenty of great roads for driving the SL but not many (any) independent MB shops or clubs. Help. ; -Thanks, Steve Hiett -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: 20081213/2531bc9f/attachment.htm> ---------------------------- -- Message: 6 Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:36:16 -0500 From: "Jonathan Hodgman" Subject: Re: [R129 SL] How to make it GO? To: "SL Mailing List" Messa ge-ID: < 1d2f90170812140736r17fd9125n455de929e7b0a706 at mail.gmail.com> Conte nt-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hello Steve, Well, your options are limited to be quite honest.. Options are build a 6L varient w/ stand alone fuel/spark.. Or, engineer a rear mount turbo setup.. I beleive Kleemann or someone similar had or was working on centrifugal blower for the SL's, but cost was around 25K or there about. In short there is No easy/inexpensive means by which one can make these cars faster. You already have the 'hottest' SL by owning a 92. Only other option that would net a few HP would be a custom exhaust from the manifolds back, but expect that to run around 2K if done correctly. If a 6L is of interest we can provide you with said motor and stand alone fuel/spark management. Jonathan -- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning. Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts of the world. Located in the Greater Atlanta area. http://www.blueridgemb.com 404 805 1357 1996 S600 Euro 1991 560SEC Euro ECE 1991 560SEC GT28 Conversion 1989 190E 2.6 factory 5sp 1989 560SEC ECE AMG Japan 1989 560SEC AMG Solid Lifter/6800rpm 1988 300TE 1987 300E AMG 1986 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V 1986 AMG Hammer 6.0L 32V 2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ments/20081214/1a2578ed/attachment-0001.html> End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 3 *************************************** _____ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.17/1847 - Release Date: 12/13/2008 4:56 PM _____ Great search results, great prizes. BigSnapSearch.com Search now -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: End of R129LIST Digest, Vol 47, Issue 5 *************************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.18/1848 - Release Date: 12/14/2008 12:28 PM -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: not available Type: multipart/alternative Size: 0 bytes Desc: not available Url : -------------- next part -------------- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.18/1848 - Release Date: 12/14/2008 12:28 PM From gstefandl at cox.net Mon Dec 15 09:58:41 2008 From: gstefandl at cox.net (gerhard stefandl) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 07:58:41 -0700 Subject: [R129 SL] Sticky window Message-ID: Rob, Thank you for the excellent advice. The link to the description on removing the door panel as extraordinary, and your description of the window issue was right on the money. Do you know if it makes any sense to remove the outside plastic panel at the bottom of the door, for better access to the window drive assembly? Thanks again for the great advice, Jerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rob at robvonder.com Mon Dec 15 12:50:54 2008 From: rob at robvonder.com (Rob Vonderhaar) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 12:50:54 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] Sticky window In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E76A7@VMBX103.ihostexchange.net> Jerry, No problem. As for removing that plastic panel, I can't really say. I didn't do it, because removing the speaker assembly and of course the plastic sheeting gave me all the access I needed. The new motor went right in through the speaker opening, and between that and the other holes cut into the door, I was able to lube the regulator satisfactorily. If I'd instead faced replacing the whole regulator, I might feel differently. Good luck! Rob From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of gerhard stefandl Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 9:59 AM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] Sticky window Rob, Thank you for the excellent advice. The link to the description on removing the door panel as extraordinary, and your description of the window issue was right on the money. Do you know if it makes any sense to remove the outside plastic panel at the bottom of the door, for better access to the window drive assembly? Thanks again for the great advice, Jerry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jennianenterprises at verizon.net Mon Dec 15 14:08:55 2008 From: jennianenterprises at verizon.net (william hughes) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 14:08:55 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] speakers Message-ID: <4946AB47.6030703@verizon.net> seem to have a partially blown speaker in the driver's side door. do i need to follow the panel removal procedure to access the speakers? where is the best place to get a replacement? thanks, bill From jennianenterprises at verizon.net Mon Dec 15 14:01:02 2008 From: jennianenterprises at verizon.net (william hughes) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 14:01:02 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] speakers Message-ID: <4946A96E.4060502@verizon.net> seem to have a partially blown speaker in the driver's side door. do i need to follow the panel removal procedure to access the speakers? where is the best place to get a replacement? thanks, bill From rob at robvonder.com Mon Dec 15 15:35:52 2008 From: rob at robvonder.com (Rob Vonderhaar) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:35:52 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] speakers In-Reply-To: <4946AB47.6030703@verizon.net> References: <4946AB47.6030703@verizon.net> Message-ID: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E77BF@VMBX103.ihostexchange.net> Yes, you do need to pull the door panel. It's really not too difficult with those instructions and photos to guide you. At that point, the entire midrange/tweeter assembly comes out with three screws. Assuming you have the Bose system, you'll need an exact replacement. I don't know if MB even stocks these anymore, but even if they do, I'm sure they're obscenely expensive. Personally, I'd try to source one from eBay or a salvage yard. From what I saw with my own Bose speakers, the problem is that water and/or humidity gets down into the door and ruins the speakers - not to mention horrendous heat and cold. These are typical Bose: El-cheapo paper cones that could never be expected to stand up well to the conditions inside a car door. My midrange speaker (the larger of the two) is all warped and water-stained, but as long as it continues to work and sound good I'm just going to leave it be. If it's any consolation, I also own a 2005 R230 SL. It too has a Bose setup, but I think the sound in my '95 R129 is much better than in the new one. It took me over a month to even figure out that the R230 *has* any rear speakers, because unlike the R129, the level is so low you can't even hear them (and of course the fader is deactivated just as it is in the R129). Also, in the R230 the low-frequency module (even Bose can't bring itself to call it a "subwoofer") has moved from the compartment behind the driver's seat to under the dash above the passenger's knees where it definitely doesn't work as well. But at least with the new 2009 SL, a Harman-Kardon surround speaker system finally replaces the Bose! Rob -----Original Message----- From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of william hughes Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 2:09 PM To: r129list at mbcoupes.com Subject: [R129 SL] speakers seem to have a partially blown speaker in the driver's side door. do i need to follow the panel removal procedure to access the speakers? where is the best place to get a replacement? thanks, bill The MB Coupes Website! R129 SL Mailing List From jennianenterprises at verizon.net Mon Dec 15 15:37:43 2008 From: jennianenterprises at verizon.net (william hughes) Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2008 15:37:43 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] speakers In-Reply-To: <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E77BF@VMBX103.ihostexchange.net> References: <4946AB47.6030703@verizon.net> <2DE8297FCF695442ADD3AC01CFE611581CAC6E77BF@VMBX103.ihostexchange.net> Message-ID: <4946C017.9070002@verizon.net> thanks rob Rob Vonderhaar wrote: > Yes, you do need to pull the door panel. It's really not too difficult with those instructions and photos to guide you. At that point, the entire midrange/tweeter assembly comes out with three screws. Assuming you have the Bose system, you'll need an exact replacement. I don't know if MB even stocks these anymore, but even if they do, I'm sure they're obscenely expensive. Personally, I'd try to source one from eBay or a salvage yard. From what I saw with my own Bose speakers, the problem is that water and/or humidity gets down into the door and ruins the speakers - not to mention horrendous heat and cold. These are typical Bose: El-cheapo paper cones that could never be expected to stand up well to the conditions inside a car door. My midrange speaker (the larger of the two) is all warped and water-stained, but as long as it continues to work and sound good I'm just going to leave it be. > > If it's any consolation, I also own a 2005 R230 SL. It too has a Bose setup, but I think the sound in my '95 R129 is much better than in the new one. It took me over a month to even figure out that the R230 *has* any rear speakers, because unlike the R129, the level is so low you can't even hear them (and of course the fader is deactivated just as it is in the R129). Also, in the R230 the low-frequency module (even Bose can't bring itself to call it a "subwoofer") has moved from the compartment behind the driver's seat to under the dash above the passenger's knees where it definitely doesn't work as well. But at least with the new 2009 SL, a Harman-Kardon surround speaker system finally replaces the Bose! > > Rob > > -----Original Message----- > From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of william hughes > Sent: Monday, December 15, 2008 2:09 PM > To: r129list at mbcoupes.com > Subject: [R129 SL] speakers > > seem to have a partially blown speaker in the driver's side door. > do i need to follow the panel removal procedure to access the speakers? > where is the best place to get a replacement? > thanks, > bill > The MB Coupes Website! > R129 SL Mailing List > The MB Coupes Website! > R129 SL Mailing List > > From deneals at sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 25 09:28:02 2008 From: deneals at sbcglobal.net (Deneal Schilmeister (MacbookPro) SBC) Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 08:28:02 -0600 Subject: [R129 SL] Happy Holidays, everyone! In-Reply-To: <000501c93966$7f40f260$0202a8c0@medion1> Message-ID: From sautry at teknorapex.com Thu Dec 25 13:00:50 2008 From: sautry at teknorapex.com (sautry at teknorapex.com) Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2008 10:00:50 -0800 Subject: [R129 SL] STEPHANIE AUTRY/MACL/TEKNOR APEX COMPANY is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 12/22/2008 and will not return until 12/29/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. From starfishsailor at mail.com Sat Dec 27 07:47:55 2008 From: starfishsailor at mail.com (Jody Techlin) Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 07:47:55 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] Alloy Wheel Center Caps Message-ID: <20081227124755.3377432675A@ws1-8.us4.outblaze.com> Hello All, First, I hope one and all have had a great holiday season to date and that you will each have a great 2009 ahead! Santa left a new set of alloy wheel center caps for me and now I would like to know how to go about removing the old set an installing the new ones without damaging the wheels. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Happy New Year, Jody '96 SL320 -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com From satish at tummala.net Sat Dec 27 08:47:38 2008 From: satish at tummala.net (Satish Tummala) Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2008 08:47:38 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] Alloy Wheel Center Caps In-Reply-To: <20081227124755.3377432675A@ws1-8.us4.outblaze.com> References: <20081227124755.3377432675A@ws1-8.us4.outblaze.com> Message-ID: <004f01c96829$aeb64b20$0c22e160$@net> Take the wheels off of the car, then push the old caps out from the backside. No other way.... -----Original Message----- From: r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:r129list-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Jody Techlin Sent: Saturday, December 27, 2008 7:48 AM To: mercedes at mercedesmailinglist.com; SL LIST Subject: [R129 SL] Alloy Wheel Center Caps Hello All, First, I hope one and all have had a great holiday season to date and that you will each have a great 2009 ahead! Santa left a new set of alloy wheel center caps for me and now I would like to know how to go about removing the old set an installing the new ones without damaging the wheels. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Happy New Year, Jody '96 SL320 -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com The MB Coupes Website! R129 SL Mailing List From colinseal at tiscali.co.uk Sun Dec 28 10:42:42 2008 From: colinseal at tiscali.co.uk (colinseal at tiscali.co.uk) Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 16:42:42 +0100 (GMT+01:00) Subject: [R129 SL] Alloy Wheel Center Caps Message-ID: <9179915.1230478962057.JavaMail.root@ps26> Take the wheels off and push the old centres out with the shaft of a hammer, push the new caps in place, if you don't want to remove the wheels and you don't want to keep the old centres you can drill a hole in the centre cap and using a piece of wire with a short bend near the end you can poke it through the hole and pull the old cap out. Regards Colin >----Original Message---- >From: starfishsailor at mail.com >Date: 27/12/2008 12:47 >To: , "SL LIST" >Subj: [R129 SL] Alloy Wheel Center Caps > >Hello All, >First, I hope one and all have had a great holiday season to date and that you will each have a great 2009 ahead! Santa left a new set of alloy wheel center caps for me and now I would like to know how to go about removing the old set an installing the new ones without damaging the wheels. Any suggestions will be appreciated. >Happy New Year, >Jody >'96 SL320 > >-- >Be Yourself @ mail.com! >Choose From 200+ Email Addresses >Get a Free Account at www.mail.com > >The MB Coupes Website! >R129 SL Mailing List > 50% off the best games of 2008 - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/games _____________________________________________________ From starfishsailor at mail.com Mon Dec 29 06:34:55 2008 From: starfishsailor at mail.com (Jody Techlin) Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 06:34:55 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] Wheel Center Cap Info - Thanks Message-ID: <20081229113455.33679BE4078@ws1-9.us4.outblaze.com> I'd like to say thanks to each of you who provided information reagarding the changing out of the wheel center caps. I appreciate the advice. I hope each of you will have a safe New Year's Eve and a prosperous New Year! Jody -- Be Yourself @ mail.com! Choose From 200+ Email Addresses Get a Free Account at www.mail.com From deneals at sbcglobal.net Wed Dec 31 11:32:20 2008 From: deneals at sbcglobal.net (Deneal Schilmeister (MacbookPro) SBC) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 10:32:20 -0600 Subject: [R129 SL] R129 Console Lid Message-ID: Hello to all around the R129 and MBCoupe World! I have several interior issues that are causing concern, that I would like to repair to proper conditioning. First on my list is to repair the innards of the driver?s seat. I?m looking for suggestions as to where to look for these kinds of services without going to the dealership. The seat just doesn?t feel right. Kind of like a broken seat spring in the 1980?s cars. My mechanic says that this cannot be the case, yet that is how it feels to me. My car has heated orthopaedic seats, so I?m wondering if it is safe to take it to any old interior shop. I am worried that the bladders could be easily broken. I also am reluctant to do the work myself because this car is my only car, and I cannot tae it out of service for a long period of time. My other interior issue, a bit more pressing to repair, is that the center console lid has become loose, a black spring clip fell out. Does anyone remember that link to the page showing a movie of the interior dis-assembly? Has anyone had experience with this repair? Thanks all. Happy Holidays again. -- Deneal Schilmeister 1997 SL500 137k http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From denisgautier.46 at gmail.com Wed Dec 31 12:38:26 2008 From: denisgautier.46 at gmail.com (denis gautier) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 18:38:26 +0100 Subject: [R129 SL] R129 Console Lid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <63ea357b0812310938o1b3601e5v1cc6caac79f46119@mail.gmail.com> Hi Deneal Does it help ? - http://mercedes-benz.forumactif.com/w129-f23/tutodemontage-de-la-console-centrale-sur-sl-r-129-t5427.htm - http://mercedes-benz.forumactif.com/w129-f23/tutodemontage-de-la-console-centrale-sur-sl-r-129-t5427-15.htm Sorry , it is in French For my side, because of a collision with a wild pig, I am looking for a motor hood or a substitute by relooking (front body kit) Best regards and happy new year Denis Gautier 2008/12/31 Deneal Schilmeister (MacbookPro) SBC > Hello to all around the R129 and MBCoupe World! > > I have several interior issues that are causing concern, that I would like > to repair to proper conditioning. > > First on my list is to repair the innards of the driver's seat. I'm > looking for suggestions as to where to look for these kinds of services > without going to the dealership. The seat just doesn't feel right. Kind of > like a broken seat spring in the 1980's cars. My mechanic says that this > cannot be the case, yet that is how it feels to me. My car has heated > orthopaedic seats, so I'm wondering if it is safe to take it to any old > interior shop. I am worried that the bladders could be easily broken. > > I also am reluctant to do the work myself because this car is my only car, > and I cannot tae it out of service for a long period of time. > > My other interior issue, a bit more pressing to repair, is that the center > console lid has become loose, a black spring clip fell out. > > Does anyone remember that link to the page showing a movie of the interior > dis-assembly? > Has anyone had experience with this repair? > > Thanks all. Happy Holidays again. > > -- > Deneal Schilmeister > 1997 SL500 137k > http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm > > > The MB Coupes Website! > R129 SL Mailing List > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warrentang at pacbell.net Wed Dec 31 12:45:40 2008 From: warrentang at pacbell.net (Warren Tang) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 09:45:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [R129 SL] wiper problem Message-ID: <845933.13513.qm@web82504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> hi Folks, my 1990 500SL has developed a problem with the wiper mechanism. The wiper only works in the high speed setting. Intermittent and slow speed are inoperative. Has anyone experienced this before? If so, is the problem in the switch, or some other part? Just prior to this, the wiper was stopping randomly while on intermittent setting. I thought I read on here that this was cured by cleaning a contact somewhere? Thanks, and Happy New Year! --Warren From blueridgemb at gmail.com Wed Dec 31 13:31:38 2008 From: blueridgemb at gmail.com (Jonathan Hodgman) Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2008 13:31:38 -0500 Subject: [R129 SL] wiper problem In-Reply-To: <845933.13513.qm@web82504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <845933.13513.qm@web82504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <495BBA8A.9040501@gmail.com> Warren Tang wrote: > hi Folks, > > my 1990 500SL has developed a problem with the wiper mechanism. The wiper only works in the high speed setting. Intermittent and slow speed are inoperative. Has anyone experienced this before? If so, is the problem in the switch, or some other part? Just prior to this, the wiper was stopping randomly while on intermittent setting. I thought I read on here that this was cured by cleaning a contact somewhere? > > Thanks, and Happy New Year! > > --Warren > > The MB Coupes Website! > R129 SL Mailing List > > More then likely the combi switch has given up.. Fairly common. Not sure how you would get into the switch to clean the contact..never attempted to take one apart. I would recommend taking the wiper mechanism off and cleaning/lubing the internals.. the OE grease turns to a pretty solid goo with time and kills the wiper motor. Jonathan -- Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East www.blueridgemb.com Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Tuning. 96 S600 Euro 91 560SEC ECE (for sale) 91 560 SEC Undergoing TT/GT28 conversion 88 300E AMG 89 190E 2.6 5sp (Mosselman TT waiting..) 89 300TE 88 560SEC AMG Euro ECE (parts) 89 560SEC AMG solid lifter 7K RPM Conv. 87 Hammer 6.0L 32V 86 560SEL AMG 6.0L 32V