[W126 Coupe] W126 losing power
Jonathan Hodgman
jhodgman at gmail.com
Sat Jul 30 20:16:22 EDT 2011
Dick,
Tom is CIS, not CIS/E, so the procedures for out Gen II cars don't apply
when it comes to EHA/VOHM etc, etc..
the fuel pressure gauges, yes, they are a must when tuning CIS.
Jono
On 7/30/2011 7:33 PM, Dick Spellman wrote:
> Hi Tom,
>
> Change the plugs to the prescribed NGK or Beru. The OEM Bosch W7 or
> 9DCO (I can't recall) may still be available at your local MB dealer.
> All are single electrode plugs and offer the correct resistance for
> the ignition system. The Bosch Platinum +4's are NO GOOD on your
> engine regardless of what the parts store may have said. Presumably
> you used OEM cap and rotor, not aftermarket. Plug and coil wire leads
> should be Karlynn or OEM.
>
> A quick check of the coil supply voltages as per the manual is a good
> idea to rule out a weak coil.
>
> Fuel pressure gauges (StarProducts Lindhurst, NY $80~) would allow you
> to check the system and differential pressures which should be
> something like 5.3 bars system with a differential of 0.40. Just as a
> comment, a common tweak to the differential pressure is to adjust the
> screw on the EHA so you get 0.45 diff. for improved performance.
>
> You could road test with a minimum 12ga. stranded (soldered tips)
> jumper wire on the fuel pump relay socket to rule out an ailing FPR.
> The jumper is needed in any case for the fuel pressure tests with
> gauges. A write-up on using the Star gauges for a 300se (same set-up
> as your 380) is on Steve Nirvig's web pages.
>
> The gauges will also let you know if the system has any leaks such as
> the control piston seal or accumulator. You don't mention replacing
> the fuel filter this could be fouled and restrict flow. What's the
> age/mileage on the 380's single fuel pump? This too could be weak.
>
> Of course, a VOHM meter preferably with dwell angle (Sears $30)
> connected to thediagnostics outlet (see Dan Landiss's write-up) would
> allow you to accurately tune the air/fuel mixture at idle and at
> 2500rpm. This critical setting cannot be done manually. This same
> meter will let you test the EHA's current once the engine has warmed
> up. Where the factory spec'd O2 is in place and new you should be
> okay and not need to meter this in the passenger footwell.
>
> Have you disconnected and blocked off the air pump?
>
> Good luck,
> Dick
> diyr
>
> On 7/30/2011 6:13 PM, Tom Brophy wrote:
>>
>> I a have 1985 380se, with a 1984 500sec Engine. the compression is
>> within 5lbs of the fuel filter. factory spec on all cylinders.
>>
>> I have a loss of power under load [going uphill] or quick
>> acceleration, otherwise car runs smooth at a constant speed, but
>> dropped 4-5 mpg. failing smogou see if the system pressure is
>> dropping misserably - CO emissions. replaced catalytic converter 2
>> years ago.
>>
>> I'm fairly sure whatever is causing the power loss is at the root of
>> my smog woes, the emissions are about 10x higher than 2 years ago.
>>
>>
>> What I have done --
>>
>> new spark plugs bosch platinum, [tested plug wires] new cap & rotor,
>> new fuel injectors w/seals, new dir replacement bosch O2 sensor,
>> checked timing adjusted fuel mixture [manually], cleaned idle control
>> valve. replaced ECU [salvage] when nothing else worked.
>> even at a richer mix I still have a problem under load and the engine
>> stalled on the dynamometer. someone suggested it might be the
>> catalytic, and I loosened the exhaust to create a good leak before
>> the catalytic and the engine still stalled when I put it under load
>> by applying the brake and reving the engine slowly to about 1100 RPM.
>>
>>
>> Any suggetions?
>>
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>
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>>
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>
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