[W126 Coupe] W126 losing power

Jonathan Hodgman jhodgman at gmail.com
Sat Jul 30 20:16:22 EDT 2011


Dick,

Tom is CIS, not CIS/E, so the procedures for out Gen II cars don't apply
when it comes to EHA/VOHM etc, etc..

the fuel pressure gauges, yes, they are a must when tuning CIS.

Jono
On 7/30/2011 7:33 PM, Dick Spellman wrote:

> Hi Tom,

>

> Change the plugs to the prescribed NGK or Beru. The OEM Bosch W7 or

> 9DCO (I can't recall) may still be available at your local MB dealer.

> All are single electrode plugs and offer the correct resistance for

> the ignition system. The Bosch Platinum +4's are NO GOOD on your

> engine regardless of what the parts store may have said. Presumably

> you used OEM cap and rotor, not aftermarket. Plug and coil wire leads

> should be Karlynn or OEM.

>

> A quick check of the coil supply voltages as per the manual is a good

> idea to rule out a weak coil.

>

> Fuel pressure gauges (StarProducts Lindhurst, NY $80~) would allow you

> to check the system and differential pressures which should be

> something like 5.3 bars system with a differential of 0.40. Just as a

> comment, a common tweak to the differential pressure is to adjust the

> screw on the EHA so you get 0.45 diff. for improved performance.

>

> You could road test with a minimum 12ga. stranded (soldered tips)

> jumper wire on the fuel pump relay socket to rule out an ailing FPR.

> The jumper is needed in any case for the fuel pressure tests with

> gauges. A write-up on using the Star gauges for a 300se (same set-up

> as your 380) is on Steve Nirvig's web pages.

>

> The gauges will also let you know if the system has any leaks such as

> the control piston seal or accumulator. You don't mention replacing

> the fuel filter this could be fouled and restrict flow. What's the

> age/mileage on the 380's single fuel pump? This too could be weak.

>

> Of course, a VOHM meter preferably with dwell angle (Sears $30)

> connected to thediagnostics outlet (see Dan Landiss's write-up) would

> allow you to accurately tune the air/fuel mixture at idle and at

> 2500rpm. This critical setting cannot be done manually. This same

> meter will let you test the EHA's current once the engine has warmed

> up. Where the factory spec'd O2 is in place and new you should be

> okay and not need to meter this in the passenger footwell.

>

> Have you disconnected and blocked off the air pump?

>

> Good luck,

> Dick

> diyr

>

> On 7/30/2011 6:13 PM, Tom Brophy wrote:

>>

>> I a have 1985 380se, with a 1984 500sec Engine. the compression is

>> within 5lbs of the fuel filter. factory spec on all cylinders.

>>

>> I have a loss of power under load [going uphill] or quick

>> acceleration, otherwise car runs smooth at a constant speed, but

>> dropped 4-5 mpg. failing smogou see if the system pressure is

>> dropping misserably - CO emissions. replaced catalytic converter 2

>> years ago.

>>

>> I'm fairly sure whatever is causing the power loss is at the root of

>> my smog woes, the emissions are about 10x higher than 2 years ago.

>>

>>

>> What I have done --

>>

>> new spark plugs bosch platinum, [tested plug wires] new cap & rotor,

>> new fuel injectors w/seals, new dir replacement bosch O2 sensor,

>> checked timing adjusted fuel mixture [manually], cleaned idle control

>> valve. replaced ECU [salvage] when nothing else worked.

>> even at a richer mix I still have a problem under load and the engine

>> stalled on the dynamometer. someone suggested it might be the

>> catalytic, and I loosened the exhaust to create a good leak before

>> the catalytic and the engine still stalled when I put it under load

>> by applying the brake and reving the engine slowly to about 1100 RPM.

>>

>>

>> Any suggetions?

>>

>>

>> Tom

>>

>>

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>>

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