[W126 Coupe] Some More Comments Re 560 Fuse Box

[Soy Medina]

Al,

You are an amazing person. I just can't imagine the concern shown about 
the fusebox replacement.

Pls relax and don't worry too much. I am not expecting that the 
replacement will be smooth sailing. Although your suggestions will be 
definitely be considered because obviously you know more about MB cars 
than me.

My endless thanks for your concern and attention. You and your kind are 
the reason why the MBCOUPES is still going and kindness in humans is 
still very much evident.

Best regards,

Soy

P.S. I hope you don't mind if I share this email with our group.


On 8/25/2011 1:29 PM, Al Sigurdson wrote:

> Soy;

>

> I have thought more about your fusebox problem after I sent it.  I am 

> sure you have spent lots of time figuring out how to tackle your 

> project and maybe you know exactly how you are going to do it.

>

> Personally, I believe that changing the entire fuse box looks like a 

> potentially impossible and highly risky task.

>

> Questions:  - Were any of the wires under the tray damaged by fire?  - 

> Do you know what caused the short in the first place and why a fuse 

> didn't blow first?  - If so, has the problem been fixed or was it the 

> component failure?

>

> IF THE WIRES UNDER THE FUSEBOX ARE OK, I WOULD NOT ATTEMPT TO CHANGE 

> THE COMPLETE FUSEBOX.

>

> Here are a couple of my ideas (you likely have thought of them before):

>

> [Be sure to disconnect your battery first]

>

> I would leave the basic fusebox bottom section where it is.  From what 

> I can see it may not be damaged, just the fuse/relay tray and probably 

> the lid.  Even if the bottom box has been damaged or warped it is not 

> very visible and all you want is the lid to fit snuggly and be watertight

>

> Pull out all the relays from the "new" box I sent.  The 01 32 relay is 

> the lighting relay and is the most expensive one (abt $250 new).  If 

> your damaged one still works keep it as a spare. The relays I sent are 

> fine.  The square aluminum relays are all the same so they are 

> interchangeable.  Now you have 6 spares.  I believe the sockets 

> underneath are all labeled a, b c or something like that.

>

> I suspect that ALL of the sockets are still OK if there was no fire 

> under the tray, so you can leave all the wires attached to the relay 

> sockets as they are.

>

> Two Philips screws (at the front of the box in holes by the spare 

> fuses) hold the tray into the box.  Undo those two and tilt the tray 

> up away from the back edge.  You have the luxury of practicing all of 

> this on the new box I sent rather than under your hood.

>

> You will notice that the relay sockets appear to be a bit loose.  The 

> relay sockets can be removed separately without undoing the wires.  I 

> have sent pictures of the 380SEC fusebox as an example.

>

> So if need be, after pulling out all the relays you can push all of 

> the relay sockets from your damaged tray WITHOUT disturbing any of the 

> wiring or connectors.  Then you can shove them back up into the new 

> tray from the underside.

>

> Now, because I sent you the only one I had, I don't know about the 

> damaged burnt "socket" but look carefully to see if that area of the 

> burnt components are installed the same way as the relay sockets and 

> if they (it) are removable.  Also, look at the fuseholders.  They 

> appear to be removable from the tray in sections.  IF that is so, you 

> may be able to replace the entire tray without undoing ANY of the 

> wiring except perhaps to the burnt component(s)!

>

> I can't check this because the fuse holders are all a single piece 

> with the tray on my (older) 380 and are NOT removable.   I don't have 

> another 560 fuse box to examine.

>

>

> Alternatively:  IF the fuse holders are NOT removable on your damaged 

> tray, or IF the damaged area is NOT removable, this is what I think I 

> would try:

>

> I'd try to salvage your entire original tray complete with the fuse 

> holders and the relay sockets and NOT disconnect anything.  With a 

> tool such as a Dremel tool I'd try to surgically remove the damaged 

> components of your tray… maybe a square piece for example.  Then I'd 

> cut out a corresponding piece from your new tray for the burnt section 

> (for which you now have replacement components) and glue it into (or 

> above) your original… reconnecting those wires.  I'd only try this 

> after pushing all the relay sockets from their tray but leaving the 

> fuse wiring connected.  This would be a bit tricky and would take a 

> great deal of patience.  If you're talented, this could end up looking 

> near-perfect and require only re-fixing the wires to the damaged 

> components.

>

> Like I say, I'm sure you have given this a great deal of thought.  I 

> thought I'd send you my ideas after having removed the fusebox. 

>  Having a replacement fuse box complete with relays leaves all options 

> open, but I strongly suggest only disconnecting those wires necessary 

> because of the actual damage.  ONE wire reconnected wrong could be 

> catastrophic and the fusebox is the "heart" of your car.

>

> -Al

>

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