[W126 Coupe] Brakes and air
Ronny 560sec
ronny.geenen at verizon.net
Mon Dec 20 15:02:24 EST 2010
Just another idea about the brake problem.
Is it possible that the ABS system has to read the system to kick in.
Does it mean that the car has to run to find that out, because another guy told me he had that experience with a Ford.
I just was in the garage and sat behind the wheel. The brake pedal was very firm. I started the engine and put it in drive and the brake pedal get softer and went slowly down. When I started pumping the pedal came a little up.
Ronny
From: mbramel
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 12:57 PM
To: 'Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists'
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Brakes and air
Couple years ago I had bought one of those mityvac units to bleed the brakes. First time I used it I guess I went a little overboard. Sucked all the fluid out of the lines. Then I filled the reservoir back up. Tried pulling the fluid through and I couldn't get anything? Tried the pumping method, that didn't work. And that took hours. Bought one of the motive bleeders from jegs for $50. Lines were done in 10 minutes for all four. Best $50 I ever spent. Good luck. Had to put a new MC on too because of all the pumping. But, looks like everyone has their own experience
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From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Ronny 560sec
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 2:54 PM
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Brakes and air
Jay H wrote:
Do not know why you do not try the simple and fool proof way of bleeding lines
Jay, believe me we will try all the advices I received from all at the mbcoupes.
I printed all the emails, also your 5 points of steps.
As soon as the problem is solved I will report that to you and all the others.
Ronny
From: Michael Ramay
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2010 10:58 AM
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Brakes and air
The check valve in the middle of the 1/2" vacuum line from the engine to the brake booster is the normal failure point. Once that cracks/breaks and vacuum is gone, the pedal goes from the normal "kinda firm" to "Rock F'g Solid". A guy (LARGE guy) with both feet on the brake pedal *might* be able to get the car to stop. My 5'2" wife has no chance.
FYI, this check valve is a part that should be looked at at least once a year to see if the plastic is starting to look chalky. Doesn't hurt to wiggle it a little bit too. IIRC, it's about $30 for the black tubing with the check valve in there.
On Sun, Dec 19, 2010 at 11:46 AM, Jay Hirsch <J.Hirsch at mac.com> wrote:
On "normal" cars, to me which is most American cars if the power booster has a "leak" the brake is very hard or firm, and stays that way the more you apply pressure, something we all wish at various times
Will not comment on the 560 power booster but assume all brake systems are the same....spongy pedal either air in the line or fluid leak some where.
Do not know why you do not try the simple and fool proof way of bleeding lines
Jay H
On Dec 19, 2010, at 1:05 PM, Ronny 560sec wrote:
Jason,
I thought that when there is a vacuum leak the brake pedal will stiffen! Or am I wrong.
Meanwhile I will ask my mechanic to check that line too.
Ronny
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