[W126 Coupe] Resoldering

[Josh Allen]

I  noticed the heat issues as well, and as an attempt to reduce 
resistance on those races added a good bit more solder on them.
I'm not sure how much of a difference it made, but it was easy and cheap 
to do.

-Josh

On 8/24/2010 9:35 AM, calvin young wrote:

> Worked for me as well.  I have had to replace the fuel relay on the 

> 380 SEC every few years or so.  When I opened the last one up, saw the 

> commections had failed.  Apparently the unit is overheating for some 

> reason.  It could use a heat sink to dissipate the heat or a redesign.

>

> Cal

>>

>> On 8/23/2010 7:39 AM, AZTECPILOT at aol.com wrote:

>>> Check your fuel control relay. My 560 SEC did the same thing, getting

>>> progressively worse over a ninety day period. It would stall, then

>>> restart in a few minutes and run ok for a few days. It turned out to

>>> be the fuel control relay. The relay was replaced and have had no

>>> trouble for the past four years. About $100 bucks in an independent

>>> garage.

>>> Tom Seitz

>>

>> If you troubleshoot to an intermittent fuel relay, and are at all

>> capable with a soldering iron, take a shot at repairing the one you have

>> before coughing up for a new one.

>>

>> In the case of my car, I found that the solder joints to a few of the

>> high current connections had failed, visibly showing as a black ring

>> around the post of one of the connections at the edge of the circuit

>> board, and around one or two of the relay connections to the board.

>>

>> To test if that was actually the cause, I used a piece of spring steel

>> (a handy screw driver would work...) to push the existing solder around

>> the failed connections into contact with the post, and found that the

>> fuel pump was working again.

>> I then resoldered the connections, and a few others while I was there,

>> and have had no issues with it since.

>>

>>

>> Just my $.02 or maybe $.03, but I figure it's worth a try.

>>

>> -Josh

>