[W126 Coupe] lowering
Attila
attila13 at bellsouth.net
Wed Apr 28 22:45:33 EDT 2010
Sorry, don't know what that means.
_____
From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Mucteba fatih
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 6:52 AM
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] lowering
attila sen turk musun?
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 7:03 AM, Attila <attila13 at bellsouth.net> wrote:
Hello Ramon. I run 18's all the way around. 8" in front,
9" rears. Koni adjustables, H&R's. The car rides way
better than stock. (Less harsh than the '94 E500). Better
center of gravity, better cornering, no adverse affect or
wear on the tires. No rubbing, no rolling the fenders. I
didn't even do the 4 wheel alignment. Looks better too.
These cars were not engineered 'perfectly', especially
performance-wise, otherwise there would never have been
an AMG, or the countless other tuning shops in Germany.
_____
From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Dick Spellman
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 10:37 PM
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] lowering
On 4/27/2010 2:30 PM, m0nm0n at aol.com wrote:
Whats the best way to lower my 1982 380 sec? I know you buy the lowering
springs and new shocks but, do you still have to take the rubber shims
located on top of the springs out? if so How many? I'm putting 18 inch rims
on my vehicle.
Thanks
Ramon
Hi Ramon,
You indicate you will install new shocks. This is a good decision if they
have been on there a long while. Even if they do not leak at present, once
you lower you will force the piston to a new depth. If there is a ridge or
dirt embedded in the piston it will eat the shock piston seal causing it to
leak. The Bilstein Comfort shocks give you the performance without the
harsh/hard ride once the H&R springs are installed.
The MB rubber spacers or nibs (available from MB directly) need to be
selected to give the sec the correct 'rake' or slope from rear to front. I
no longer have the notes I wrote up when doing the lowering but, you will
need to change these up to get the right ride height and look when going to
18's.
I am running factory bolt on (no spacers for the offset or tracking)
Lorinser 18's all around and have the same early front fender style (not
flared) that you have. The clearance to the inside of the metal lips on all
4 wheels is scant and the distance from the top of the Pirelli's to the
fender edge is maybe 1/2 inch. There is no rub and no connection between
tire or chassis at any time. You may need to roll the rear fender lip some
depending on the wheel offset and tire width you install. My tire set up on
the Lorinser rims is 275 35 zr 18 rear and 235 40 zr18 front. Running 18's
requires grater precision in the set-up. I was lucky as the alignment shop
at the time I did my work, let me fuss for several hours to get the 4-wheel
alignment within factory spec's. From what I have read on others efforts to
align after lowering, I got lucky. The Pirelli's have been great, no noise,
no vibration smooth even wear. They are about do for renewal in 5-10k
however.
I love the ride by the way and see no serious side effects. The ride was
engineered by BergWerks (Carl and Steve) in Van Nuys, CA and then put
together here in Boston over a period of months/years. I tried posting this
earlier with an image that proved to be too big. Maybe this cropped version
will make it.
Regards,
Dick
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