[W126 Coupe] lowering

[Richard & Nancy Diefenbach]

Wow - I have never seen so many (and varied) responses to a simple question.  There appear to be a lot of pro and cons on the subject.  I really like the way my '87 560 (Euro) rides and handles and have considered new wheels but there are a few photos that really enhance the car.  Personally, I'll stick with the stock suspension but enjoy reading about other results.

Dick
Danville. VT



  attila sen turk musun?


  On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 7:03 AM, Attila <attila13 at bellsouth.net> wrote:

            Hello Ramon.    I run 18’s all the way around.  8” in front,

            9” rears.  Koni adjustables, H&R’s.  The car rides way 

    better than stock.  (Less harsh than the ’94 E500).  Better 

    center of gravity, better cornering, no adverse affect or

    wear on the tires.  No rubbing, no rolling the fenders.  I 

    didn’t even do the 4 wheel alignment.  Looks better too.

    These cars were not engineered ‘perfectly’, especially 

    performance-wise, otherwise there would never have been

    an AMG, or the countless other tuning shops in Germany.




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    From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Dick Spellman
    Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 10:37 PM


    To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists

    Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] lowering



    On 4/27/2010 2:30 PM, m0nm0n at aol.com wrote: 


    Whats the best way to lower my 1982 380 sec? I know you buy the lowering springs and new shocks but, do you still have to take the rubber shims located on top of the springs out? if so How many? I'm putting 18 inch rims on my vehicle. 



    Thanks



    Ramon

    Hi Ramon,

    You indicate you will install new shocks.  This is a good decision if they have been on there a long while.  Even if they do not leak at present, once you lower you will force the piston to a new depth.  If there is a ridge or dirt embedded in the piston it will eat the shock piston seal causing it to leak.  The Bilstein Comfort shocks give you the performance without the harsh/hard ride once the H&R springs are installed.

    The MB rubber spacers or nibs (available from MB directly) need to be selected to give the sec the correct 'rake' or slope from rear to front.  I no longer have the notes I wrote up when doing the lowering but, you will need to change these up to get the right ride height and look when going to 18's. 

    I am running factory bolt on (no spacers for the offset or tracking) Lorinser 18's all around and have the same early front fender style (not flared) that you have.  The clearance to the inside of the metal lips on all 4 wheels is scant and the distance from the top of the Pirelli's to the fender edge is maybe 1/2 inch.  There is no rub and no connection between tire or chassis at any time.  You may need to roll the rear fender lip some depending on the wheel offset and tire width you install.  My tire set up on the Lorinser rims is 275 35 zr 18 rear and 235 40 zr18 front.  Running 18's requires grater precision in the set-up.  I was lucky as the alignment shop at the time I did my work, let me fuss for several hours to get the 4-wheel alignment within factory spec's.  From what I have read on others efforts to align after lowering, I got lucky.  The Pirelli's have been great, no noise, no vibration smooth even wear.  They are about do for renewal in 5-10k however.  

    I love the ride by the way and see no serious side effects.  The ride was engineered by BergWerks (Carl and Steve) in Van Nuys, CA and then put together here in Boston over a period of months/years. I tried posting this earlier with an image that proved to be too big.  Maybe this cropped version will make it.

    Regards,
    Dick 


    The MB Coupes Website!
    W126 SEC Mailing List
    Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.





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