[W126 Coupe] New vacuum rubber, idle control vale

Dick Spellman dick.spellman at gmail.com
Sun Aug 2 21:43:27 EDT 2009


Name????

Just my 2 but here is what I would do...

Set the bad cylinder to TDC.

Drill to _set depth_ and then Tap those threads using the Timesert or
Helicoil kit in situ.

Suck any debris off the cylinder/piston top using a flexible hose
dropped onto the piston top area.

Go only to Mercedes dealer and get the 8 original factory plugs (they
are pre-gapped and with torque spec on the label)

These are typically tapered and torque to 21nM/15.5 ft lbs.

Oil the threads as per usual.

Use a torque wrench, no guess work of any kind or the problem becomes
far worse!

Forget any other comments on better plugs and so on as they do not apply.

Just follow the original MB specs.

Sorry to hear you have this problem.

At 200k, have the heads been refurbished??

-\Dick

mbramel wrote:

>

> I bought a 87 560SEC black over grey last year. Always idled terribly,

> and I mean terrible. It would rock from side to side. Put in new

> injector seals, cups, new idle distribution hoses, and a lightly used

> idle control valve from ebay. Runs wonderful now. It actually idles

> smoother than our 5 year old chevy express van. However I have a

> different problem. I figured it would be a good idea to spin the

> engine a few times without the plugs installed incase anything had

> fallen into the cylinders. Well I had the plugs out, did that. Yadda

> ya. Installing the plugs I was told to use a bit more force and to

> stop babying it, that's what the crush washer is for. Well I don't

> know what I did. But I know now there is a set of threads from a NGK

> BP6ES (as per recommended) in the head and the read of the plug in my

> hand. Not sure if I can JB weld this or what are your recommendations?

> The car has 200k on it.

>

>

>

> Thank you

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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