[W126 Coupe] 1985 SEC a/c issues

[Dick Spellman]

Robert,

When you say you had the heater repaired, what was replaced? The heater 
core?

If it was the monovalve, then I could see the mechanics comments making 
some sense.

If it was the heater core well, the blower/heater box repair kit ($45 
from Mb) would have solved the door hinge/actuator problems you now 
face.  You may have one or more vacuum elements needing some attention 
as well.

In any event, I would start with removal of the driver's side footwell 
side knee bolster and side carpet to expose the heater flap door.  If 
it's open as I suspect it is, try hooking the edge (recessed in near the 
heater/evaporator cores) and pull it closed.  If it moves freely, it may 
be that the mech. just dropped out the linkage and vac element (or vac 
line capped) at the front of the heater box.  If it will not budge, 
leave this carpet to the side and proceed with removal of the dash 
center wood (ashtray, radio, climate control & wood) to expose the 
vacuum pod and linkage (under a plastic cover) on the front to the 
heater box.  I have photos of all or a part of this but, they are not 
noted or assembled into a repair write-up.

Disconnect the drive linkage between vac pod and door linkage (1 clip-2 
seconds effort) now the doors can be manually opened and closed from the 
face of the heater box.  Slide the horizontal linkage left to right or 
right to left to either close the center vent for summer cooling, open 
for winter heating.  Not perfect but, better than what you have now.  
With the side carpet removed you can see what direction the linkage 
needs to go to manage the doors on BOTH driver and passenger sides where 
this one linkage drives both doors.  Eyes on one door should tell the 
story for the other as well.

If all of this is more than you can handle, then I'd get to a good indy 
and ask for help.

Beware, rebuilding the heater box hinges and flaps is a major time 
consuming expense.  The entire dash must be lifted to get this done.  
I'd be surprised if the heater core was serviced previously and they did 
not mend any broken fittings where they would have to do ALL of this 
work for that repair as well at time of re-assembly.  Remember, there is 
a special MB kit for this purpose.

Also, all of the vacuum pods should be checked, diaphragms repaired or 
replaced to be sure air flow is sent where it belongs on all other 
points.  This is especially important on the fresh air/recirculation 
flap behind the passenger glove box.  If the two pods that drive this 
one flap are not working properly your system will be trying to cool a 
whole lot of outside air and the car will never run as cool as you need.
Good luck,
Dick

btb management wrote:

> About five years ago I repaired my heater and was told that it would 

> be cheaper to

> disconnect the center dashboard vents during the repair.   Of course 

> that mechanic is out of

> business and  I have gone to four different

> mechanics who tell me it is too costly to take apart the dashboard to 

> reconnect for my a/c to

> run through the vents.  Now the fan noise is almost impossible with 

> just a little trickle of sometimes cool

> air blowing out of the side vents. On a hot day, this can be a major 

> issue.

>  Has anyone experienced this and know a good a/c mechanic in

> the west hollywood, california area to repair?  The Bev Hills dealer 

> will only do a complete renovation and

> switch from using freon for over $2K, which is not an option.

>

> Thanks,

> Robert

>

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