[W126 Coupe] Distributer cap

[Jonathan]

A couple of things you might try first, one, hammer on the screws w/ 
said screw driver...doing so may loosen things up.  Next, you might see 
if you can get an impact driver to catch enough to work..Also, spraying 
with a quality penetrating oil is key.  When you do re-install, utterly 
coat the threads in anti seize...I see this problem more often then I 
care too.. 

That aside, if you snap the heads off the cap should come off in which 
case it's safe to heat them up..no worries if you use propane or mapp 
gas.  Again, I would let penetrating oil sit on the screws for at least 
a day or so before attacking it with the torch.  Another method I have 
used w/ good luck is shocking the suspect fastener, i.e, heat it up a 
good bit and then hit is w/ CRC's Freeze Off, doing this a few times 
will often get what ever corrosion/rust that's holding the screw in 
place to loosen up some.

With all of that in mind, I'd recommend to anyone out there that they 
pull their distributor cap and coat these screws with anti seize...the 
above job is not very much fun..esp. if it comes down to drilling and 
tapping (we had one like this just last week and needed to be drilled, 
making what should take a few seconds last an hour plus by the time we 
were done).

Jonathan

GreyGarageRuss at aol.com wrote:

> Thanks to Jonathan.Satish and others who responded to my query (below) 

> on spark plugs for my SEC.  I finally found the time to try to install 

> the W9DCO plugs along with new wires, cap and rotor.  I have the new 

> plugs and wires in but my old distributer cap won't come off two of 

> the three screws are damaged and won't turn.  I have been told that I 

> should grind these screw heads off, remove the cap and use a torch to 

> heat the area around the screws to try to loosen them!!  My question 

> is: *Is there any other method to remove these screws and if not, will 

> the torch cause any other damage??*  Thanks, Russell

> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 00:36:06 EDT

> From: GreyGarageRuss at aol.com <mailto:GreyGarageRuss at aol.com>

> I recently called my local Benz dealer to ask if he had and Bosch 

> W9DCO  plugs for my 1988 560 SEC and he said he did. When I went to 

> pick them up he handed me WR9DC+ plugs. His computer screen indicated 

> that W9DCO'S were Bosch #003-159-10-03, the same number on the box of 

> WR9DC+ plugs. I didn't take them and when I got home, I checked one of 

> the old plugs in my 560. It was a WR9DC+. Apparently the t shop that 

> put in these plugs when I bought the car 3-4 years ago, used these 

> resister ones.  My question now, is what is the difference....will 

> anything be harmed...should I change them immediately or stick with 

> this type? The car runs very well as is but I want to do the right 

> thing while I am going to put new wires on. Thanks,  Russell  1988 560 SEC

> Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2007 00:42:18 -0400

> From: Jonathan <jhodgman at gmail.com <mailto:jhodgman at gmail.com>>

> Mercedes has specified in the past that the maximum level of 

> resistance is not to exceed 5Kohms or damage to the ignition 

> componentry could be damaged.

> The resistor plugs on their own have 5Kohms resistance, couple that w/ 

> the 1K in the wires, and the 1K in the cap etc and you are well beyond 

> the specified maximum.

> I would inspect your cap and rotor while doing your wires..chances are 

> these plugs contributed to your wires demise.  I would remove the 

> plugs and run replace it with the correct non resistor plugs.  

> Jonathan  Blue Ridge Mercedes

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1996 S600 Euro "Scharnhorst"
1991 560 SEC Full Euro ECE (for sale)
1991 560 SEC 226Hp/271ft/lbs (TT conversion IP)
1988 300 TE
1989 560 SEC AMG (Mech.lifter/radical cam conv.)
1986 560 SEL 6.0L 32V AMG
1980 280 SE Euro
2006 Z4 3.0Si M-Spec

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