[W126 Coupe] center console cover, bottom

[Dick Spellman]

Okay.  So I'd propose you carefully remove the rubber shift seal. Then 
remove the switches.  Then cut-out a piece of cardboard to fit the wood 
console perimeter. Now insert the wood console into the cardboard 
cut-out.  You will need to get the cardboard equal to the finish height 
of the wood.  I used a wood template cut smaller than the console 
perimeter that supported the wood ands allows the cardboard to float up 
on the wood edges.  This is to protect the edges of the wood from the 
sanding you are going to do.  If you choose to just sand without the 
cardboard, back way off on sanding as you approach the edges of the 
wood.  I'd start with a 220 grit to break up the gloss finish working 
with the grain only until you see the finish go gray or milky in color.  
Don't push too hard as you will need to follow with finer grits 
progressing from 220 to 320, 400, 600 all the way up to 1600-2000 to 
remove the grooves from the coarse sanding at 220.  In any event the 
object is to cut away enough of the  lacquer finish so as to remove the 
lacquer cracks.  If you go too far you will eat the thin layer of veneer 
just below the lacquer and ruin the piece.  Once you clear the cracks 
(most of them and if you are lucky all of them) work to finer grades of 
sanding to take out the grooves from the rough sanding.  Once you have a 
smooth finish on the main section remove the piece from the cardboard 
and carefully rough up the edges.  Be careful because it's real easy to 
eat the edges with sanding and ruin the piece.

Now reinstall the rubber shift gate surround using urethane glue 
(gorilla brand or whatever) clamping with wood plates in place.  Wipe 
off any excess as the glue expands and wipe away from the console deck.  
Let this dry overnight.  Tack the work piece and set it on a clean 
surface. I use 'poured urethane' gloss as a finish.  One coat should do 
the trick.  Yes, I poured both the wood and the exposed rubber seal.   
Let is sit for twice as long as the poured urethane drying instructions 
say. 

Now carefully remove any excess finish that sits in the cut-out slots 
for the switches.  You must remove any resistance to snapping the 
switches back in place before actually nesting the switches back into 
the wood.  You could try the switches with the original piece (before 
finishing) first to get a feel for how much pressure is needed to fit 
them so once the piece is refinished you can closely match this pressure 
to avoid lifting the new finish.  If you don't make the room for each 
switch, pressing the switches back into the console will result in 
lifting of the finish you just poured and it WILL crack up into the 
finish.  So, be very careful and very patient.  You can get the whole 
piece to 'like new' for a few bucks and quite a bit of detail work.

The other alternatives to applying the urethane finish are a foam brush 
(leaves marks) IMHO or an air brush.  If you are lucky enough to have 
one go for it.  May take light sanding, tacking and several coats in 
either case to remove any dust particles.  By the way a friend used a UV 
varnish (marine varnish) applied by air brush on his and it came out well.

Dick

flakeymail-benz at yahoo.com wrote:

> I'm curious about how to refinish - the wood looks intact, unlike the  

> plastic within which the wood is entombed.   I suppose I could epoxy  

> the shift plate seal back on, but I certainly see why they changed  

> that to be separate piece.   Plastic hold down rails are intact, the  

> wood notch on the leading edge that catches the little tray forward  

> of the shifter was broken but seems to holding well with epoxy.

>

> thanks,

> alex

>

> On Mar 1, 2007, at 3:18 PM, Dick Spellman wrote:

>

>   

>> Alex:

>>

>> The center console trim new is expensive and comes in either  

>> burlwood or zebrano finish.  Also the year of your car from the  

>> photo is an early model where the rubber shift plate seal is  

>> integral to the wood (glued/stapled in place).  The newer version  

>> has a raised plastic lip that is depressed into tab holders on the  

>> shift gate itself.

>>

>> If you find the replacement cost too expensive.  I can tell you  

>> that with a good deal of patience that wood in your SEC can be  

>> fully restored from the looks of the picture.  Are the plastic hold  

>> down rails on the bottom still intact?  I'll look up the part  

>> number on epc in a minute.

>>

>> Dick

>> flakeymail-benz at yahoo.com wrote:

>>     

>>> Is the right name for this part the center console cover,  

>>> bottom?   Anyone have a part number or know where to get one?

>>> The plate that holds the window switches and surrounds the gear  

>>> selector.  I disassembled it to clean it up but if its not too  

>>> dear i'd like to pop a new one in.

>>>

>>> thanks,

>>> alex

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>>

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>

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