[W126 Coupe] Stubborn Door

Tad Heckaman douglash at gmail.com
Sun Feb 25 23:56:49 EST 2007


Yes, I actually compared it this afternoon. Looking up into the striker from
under it, the plastic part is completely shattered. The drivers side door is
intact. Looking up the part online runs around $100. I will contact my
mechanic tomorrow, since he has a junk yard that might have the striker I am
looking for.

Do these fail very often, or was this caused by old age/slamming of the
door?


Thanks for everybody's help.





On 2/25/07, Mister McGoo <eelploot at hotmail.com> wrote:

>

> Tad;

>

> >From the photos it looks as though the brass sleeve that accepts the cone

> shaped plunger on the door is not there. How does this part compare to your

> other door? Do they look the same? The one in the photo sure looks

> damaged.

>

> If you need to replace that, check the part number (with the MB dealer

> parts department, for example). Ask for the part number for your SEC and

> for a sedan (SE or SEL the same year). I believe that the parts are the

> same and a used one could be readily available from a sedan.

>

> -Bellamy

>

>

>

>

> ------------------------------

> Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2007 22:09:32 -0500

> From: douglash at gmail.com

> To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com

> Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Stubborn Door

>

> I look a closer look at this this evening while it was still light out,

> and I took a photo of what I found. To me it looks broken, can I get that

> part fixed?

>

>

>

> You can find higher resolution shot here, along with a few other photos of

> other parts of the door (plus the entire car):

> http://www.flickr.com/photos/46747002@N00/

>

>

> On 2/21/07, *Dick Spellman* <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

>

> Hi Tad:

>

> You may well have damaged the link on the door handle to the latch

> mechanism by what you describe. I have not worked on the handle/latch

> in quite a while so I do not know what to suggest next. Let's see if

> anyone on the list has experience with the door latch. I'd tell you to

> remove the handle to see if anything seems broken or amiss for

> starters. But, I don't know that you'll benefit much from the

> exercise. Anyway here is a link to the webpage with my fuzzy photos and

> notes from a while back. < http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2mwm9/index.html>

> then select door handle from the left column listing.

>

> Dick

>

> <Tad Heckaman wrote:

> > I doesnt seem to be sagging at all. I would think if it was sagging I

> > would be able to slightly lift the door and get it to latch. I glanced

> > over the door and it seems that everything is lined up right. No

> > unusual spots as far as I can tell... One thing that I just

> > remembered, is awhile back I had pulled the handle to open the door,

> > which was locked. The lock lifted up (I assume its supposed to do

> > that), but the handle kinda flopped around and it wouldn't latch. I

> > had to push the lock down and back up by hand to get it to latch

> > correctly. Did I break something inside the door when that happened?

> > My locks still aren't fixed, so I normally open the lock by key or

> > pulling up on it.

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > On 2/21/07, *Dick Spellman* <spell.yy at verizon.net

> > <mailto:spell.yy at verizon.net >> wrote:

> >

> > Hi tad:

> >

> > You don't say if the door is sagging. Maybe check the pin switches

> in

> > the front pillar to see if one is out of place. Check the door sill

>

> > itself to see if it's raised at any point and check the courtesy

> lamp

> > recessed in the bottom of the door to see if it's dropped down.

> > Do you

> > see any area of the door frame that looks carved up from the impact

> of

> > closing the door?

> >

> > Dick

> >

> > Tad Heckaman wrote:

> > > My passenger door has started to fail at latching fully. No

> > matter if

> > > I close it gently or slamming it, it never clicks. It catches on

> the

> > > first 'click' so the door stays shut but it never seals. I noticed

> > > that if I push the door against the car, its almost like its being

> > > kept from fully closing. It typically stops about 1/4 inch away

> from

> > > the rest of the car (glass is about 1/4 away from the rubber).

> > Rolling

> > > down the window does not help. I will see if I can adjust the

> > strike

> > > to line it up better, but it really seems like something is

> blocking

> > > the door from closing fully. I checked around the edge to make

> sure

> > > there wasn't anything blocking the door, but didn't see

> > anything. Any

> > > thoughts? Could the strike just go completely out of whack?

> > >

> > > Thanks,

> > > Tad

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > On 2/9/07, *Dick Spellman* < spell.yy at verizon.net

> > <mailto:spell.yy at verizon.net>

> > > <mailto: spell.yy at verizon.net <mailto:spell.yy at verizon.net>>>

> wrote:

> > >

> > > Cole Finnbogason wrote:

> > > > Recently the driver-side door of my 1988 560 SEC has

> > required a

> > > little

> > > > more fore to close it properly. Without practically

> > slamming the

> > > door

> > > > doesn't close properly.

> > > > Any information as to why this is occurring or how to fix it

> > > would be

> > > > great,

> > > > Cole

> > > >

> > > >

> > _________________________________________________________________

> > > > Don't waste time standing in line—try shopping online. Visit

>

> > > Sympatico

> > > > / MSN Shopping today! http://shopping.sympatico.msn.ca

> > > >

> > > >

> > >

> >

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------

> >

> > > >

> > > > The MB Coupes Website!

> > > > W126 SEC Mailing List

> > > > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> > > >

> > > You might try lowering the window a bit then close. If it's

> > easier

> > > then

> > > it's possible your upper seal has hardened perhaps more so

> than

> > > usual if

> > > you are in a colder climate just now. You should check the

> door

> > > alignment with the rear pillar as well. If the door is

> > sagging the

> > > pillar strike can be raised to compensate and by the same

> > process you

> > > can move the strike on the pillar outward a bit to improve the

> > > catch and

> > > reduce the slamming when attempting to close.

> > >

> > > To better understand what is out of alignment height wise I

> > use a

> > > piece

> > > of paper with grease spread on the back. Set the paper on

> > the strike.

> > > Place a dab of grease on the door pin and gently close until

> > the pin

> > > makes contact with the paper. From this you can deduce the

> > > alignment on

> > > the strike and make your adjustments so the pin is dead

> > center as

> > > opposed to off-center on the circle the paper has

> formed/marked

> > > and the

> > > center point of the pin in the circle. A bit of grease in

> > the right

> > > place may help too.

> > >

> > > -\Dick

> > >

> > >

> > > The MB Coupes Website!

> > > W126 SEC Mailing List

> > > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > >

> > > --

> > > Tad Heckaman

> > >

> >

> ------------------------------------------------------------------------

> > >

> > > The MB Coupes Website!

> > > W126 SEC Mailing List

> > > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> >

> > The MB Coupes Website!

> > W126 SEC Mailing List

> > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > --

> > Tad Heckaman

> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------

> >

> > The MB Coupes Website!

> > W126 SEC Mailing List

> > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

> The MB Coupes Website!

> W126 SEC Mailing List

> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

>

>

>

> --

> Tad Heckaman

>

>

> ------------------------------

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>

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> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>




--
Tad Heckaman
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