[W126 Coupe] window motor/regulator
Dick Spellman
spell.yy at verizon.net
Sat Feb 17 20:39:48 EST 2007
Hi Alex:
If you have any spray adhesive, just put a small width of it over the
previous adhesive and you should be good to go. As for the rust on the
doors, you may have bad outer window seals ($15 US or so ea. at MB
dealer) that are easily replaced that will prevent the doors rusting
from the inside out.
Dick
flakeymail-benz at yahoo.com wrote:
> Many, many thanks. I was able to get the motor out
> without even moving the regulator after i found those
> stubby bolts you told me about.
>
> The motor was rusty inside and somehow the shaft was
> popped out of the little cup it rides in at the
> bottom, letting it make contact with the magnets
> (hence its not spinning). Brushes were rusty too.
> but with only minor attention to the motor it works
> again.
> thanks!
>
> i worked the window up and down to get regulator free
> again, everything is now operable.
>
> Now i'm scratching my head over how to reattach the
> plastic film door liner, whatever glue was used
> previously let the plastic go easily but now it isn't
> even tacky to the touch. I'm contemplating not
> putting the plastic film back but I'm curious as to
> the proper method of reattachment? I'm probably going
> to try double sided tape, just so I can put the door
> liner back on.
>
> thanks again, beers on me, (payable in napa, ca. area.
> :)
>
> alex
>
>
> --- Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>
>> Hi Alex:
>>
>> You can get the window down to remove the regulator
>> where the motor has
>> failed but, it's a bit of work.
>>
>> On the back side (not visible) of the motor and at
>> the top of the motor
>> where the regulator portion (with teeth) passes
>> through the motor teeth
>> is a metal plate. This plate is secured by two 8mm
>> (I think that's the
>> right size) stubby bolts. Removal of this plate
>> frees the regulator
>> from the motor which will allow the window glass to
>> move freely as the
>> regulator arms are no longer tethered to the teeth
>> locked to the dead motor.
>>
>> I usually disconnect the power at the screw
>> terminals on the door frame
>> then drop all the door frame bolts holding the
>> regulator, arm and motor
>> to buy some room and allow the window to drop a bit
>> making the motor
>> plate more accessible. I'd place a nylon or plastic
>> wedge or two in the
>> outer door weather strip to lock the glass in place
>> just before you are
>> ready to remove the motor plate bolts.Then fit a
>> short socket by hand
>> (to get correct size) followed by your 1/4 drive
>> socket wrench. A 3/8's
>> drive will not fit. ALL of my work of this type has
>> been on the 126
>> chassis sedans not the coupe. I think you'll find
>> the set-up is
>> identical with the exception of the larger glass and
>> rail system
>> employed in the coupe. They wedges can be removed
>> when your are ready
>> to pull the entire regulator.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Dick
>>
>> .flakeymail-benz at yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>> Howdy,
>>> I have my passenger door open, I'm trying to fix
>>>
>> the
>>
>>> passenger door window. I'm following the service
>>> manual instructions, but I'm stuck on setp 1 of
>>> removal: let crank window down.
>>>
>>> The window is fully up and I can't get to budge.
>>>
>> I
>>
>>> have to get it down to get the motor/regulator
>>> assembly out.
>>>
>>> anyone else done this, or have any hints on
>>>
>> getting
>>
>>> window down?
>>>
>>> I've tried giving 12 volts to the motor to see if
>>>
>> the
>>
>>> problem was switch/wiring to the motor but no
>>>
>> luck.
>>
>>> ohm meter says open circuit across motor, but I
>>>
>> don't
>>
>>> know if that's normal.
>>> volt meter says + or - 12 at the connector
>>>
>> depending
>>
>>> on which way switch is pressed.
>>>
>>> thanks in advance...
>>> alex
>>> The MB Coupes Website!
>>> W126 SEC Mailing List
>>> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
> The MB Coupes Website!
> W126 SEC Mailing List
> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.
>
>
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