[W126 Coupe] Low Idle and shut off problems. 1987 560 SEC

[Dick Spellman]

Hi Terry,

I registered a year or so back and have now paid for my second years 
subscription for EPC including European models,  Cost is $24 per year.  
I just recently saw a posting on another site suggesting the MBClub 
members could take advantage of EPC online for free.  The thread 
suggested this was a benefit of MBClub membership.  The link you 
reference is the same one I use.

Happy Holidays...
Dick

Terry Ratliff wrote:

> Dick - I am a member of MB Club of America and as far as I know it does not

> include an EPC online subscription. Depending on which EPC site you go to,

> one charges a lot of money and one is available for North American cars for

> FREE at: http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/welcome.jsp 

>

> You have to enter your charge card and they hit you with $1 for

> verification. I expect they will credit back the $1.

>

> Best Regards,

> Terry C. Ratliff

> eMail: Terry at MyMBSEC.com  

> Web site: http://MyMBSEC.com  

>

>

> -----Original Message-----

> From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com]

> On Behalf Of Dick Spellman

> Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 3:58 PM

> To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists

> Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Low Idle and shut off problems. 1987 560 SEC

>

> Hi Crystal,

>

> It does sound like you need to go over the fuel system, the vacuum 

> system, and the electrics.  Fixing as you go whatever is worn or needing 

> adjustment.  If you are inclined to do all of this yourself, you need 

> the cd manuals plus the free Super Nervig Index that makes the manuals 

> easier to navigate and locate things. Then if you are a member of MBClub 

> you have free access to EPC on-line so you can see where parts are 

> located and how they are interconnected.  If not a member ( I am not) 

> just pay the annual fee of $20-30 to access the service as a 

> subscriber.  Just plug in your VIN and everything specific top your car 

> is at your fingertips.

>

> If on the other hand you just want to get things in good working order 

> from a really good indy in LA, I'd look-up Steve Lemberg who runs a shop 

> in Van Nuys as I recall.  I do not recommend too many mech's but, he is 

> excellent and Jonathan in Atlanta is excellent and also sells MB parts 

> plus provides some direction.

>

> Really depends on your appetite for fixing.  You need the manuals and 

> EPC to get started.

>

> Vacuum.  Then I'd focus on the vacuum system by eliminating the 

> peripheral vacuum sources, plugging the manifold sources off to see if 

> you can get improved idle.  There are a number of vacuum connections on 

> the air flow meter housing, idle air valve, to check once all other 

> feeds are plugged off and not essential to checking the engine.  Then 

> add one vac circuit back in at a time to see where additional the leaks 

> are.  A $30 Mighty Vac does come in handy for this type of inspection.

>

> Fuel.  The easiest path is to get a set of fuel pressure gauges/hoses 

> (about$80) and let the gauges with two hook-ups to the Fuel Distributor 

> do all the troubleshooting step by step easily.  Any other method is 

> pure guess work and you'll spend more money on replacing parts that may 

> or may not solve the problem but, never really get a handle on the true 

> issues.  Inspect EHA for leaks, inspect throttle plate for carbon 

> build-up. Check cold start valve for operation (careful on this as you 

> need a jar and you will be spraying fuel).  Both fuel pumps, filters and 

> accumulator (pressure damper) are in the rear under the passenger trunk 

> area behind pass axle.  When ordering the filters be sure and order the 

> two seals (crush washers) needed per each filter.  Still a messy job.

>

> Electrics. I'd pull a few plugs check their conditions, gaps.  Pull the 

> dist. cap inspecting for carbon traces and any fine cracks on the 

> towers.  Check for pitting on the rotor tip etc.  If these items look to 

> be in tough shape order new ones.  Plug wires if they are 100k or older 

> just replace with a Karlynn set which is very good quality.  Other 

> sensors and harnesses to check, there are many but, here are a few...TPS 

> switch for idle stop circuit, engine temp sensors and harnesses.  OVP 

> relay fuses initially.  Then check voltages per manual.

>

> Good luck,

>

> Dick

>

> MS. J wrote:

>   

>> First, I have found the forum very very helpful.  But I am still a 

>> little confused.  I am having cold start, *_low_* idle and stalling/ 

>> shut off problems. 

>>  

>> I have read the archives re: Ignition control valves, and checking 

>> fuel filters, relays and OVP relay.

>>  

>> I have searched various locations to find out what the various parts 

>> look like, but not where to find them in my model.

>>  

>> When putting the car in reverse it shuts off. I concluded a vacuum 

>> leak.  I have linked a few of the vacuum lines that were open and one 

>> that is located behind the engine I linked up but not sure if I 

>> connected in the right place.   To locate that one,  I had to remove 

>> the air filter housing to reach it behind the engine, it  travels down 

>> under fire wall area.  That seem to help the low idle a little (still 

>> way to low) but not the shut off when in reverse, and from start up in 

>> low idle.

>>  

>> I want to change the fuel filter but haven't located it yet. I am also 

>> going to change the spark plugs,  wires and not sure if I need to 

>> change distributor. How can I can if it needs replacing? I read that I 

>> should check the ignition control valve, but not sure it is located.

>>  

>> Can someone point me in the right direction?

>>  

>> Crystal

>> 1987 560 SEC

>> Los Angeles

>>

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