[W126 Coupe] Camran Re: Tranie Question

[Gary]

where is this modulator located.  sounds like i have the same problem.  thanks

Richard Hogarth <R_Hogarth at Foundrycove.com> wrote:        

    v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}  o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}  w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}  .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}                Camran, 
  Your problem still sounds like no vacuum at the modulator. You are describing a classic symptom. 
  You should be sure to check it as it is also the simplest thing to fix. 
  -RPH
   
      From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Camran Nassiri
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 5:46 PM
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Tranie Question


   
  Hi Dick- That's good news about the filter.  I did take off the drain plug from the torque converter and put it back with a new washer and torqued both filter and the plug according to the manual specs. 
I used Valvoline Dextron III/Mercon ATF and this is the first time I've changed the tranie fluid in the 420; but, I have done it several times on my 560.  420 was one owner car with 111,000 miles and was maintained to the mfg spec by a dealer.
I'll try the Bowden cable this W/E and wil let you knwo the results.  Thanks again for taking the time and giving me your advice.
Camran



> Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 17:07:35 -0400

> From: spell.yy at verizon.net

> To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com

> Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Tranie Question

> 

> Hi Camran:

> 

> I've just checked my notes on a few tranny services I've done on the 126 

> 300SE's in the past. The filter only goes up one-way. But, it must be 

> fully seated and the torque converter drain plug should be fully seated 

> with a new seal (metal washer). I would adjust the Bowden cable first. 

> You can always return it to it's original position if it does not remedy 

> the shift point issue you have. Failing that, turn the T on the 

> modulator clockwise just 1 full turn.

> 

> The Bowden cable will make all your shift points a tad earlier in all 

> gear ranges. The modulator will, when turned clockwise, reduce the 

> presence of vacuum resulting in a firmer shifting between gears in all 

> ranges.

> 

> What type of tranny fluid did you use and is this a job you've done 

> before? How many miles on the 420 and was fluid always changed at the 

> prescribed 30k intervals?

> 

> Dick

> 

> Camran Nassiri wrote:

> > Hi Dick- I am glad you asked the question about the filter. That 

> > perhaps could be the culprit. I believe I put it back the same way 

> > the old one was in there; had no idea that the filter can be installed 

> > in different positions. I know for sure that it is the right side up; 

> > but, cannot guarantee I had it 90 or 180 turned. Can that have 

> > happened? If so I have to take the whole thing appart and check and 

> > make sure. One thing I know is that the problem wasn't there before I 

> > changed the oil and filter. If I take it appart do I need a new 

> > gasket again or can I use the new one I put in last time I changed the 

> > oil?

> > 

> > Thank you Dick and everyone else who has provided tremendous helpful 

> > hints.

> > 

> > Camran

> >

> > > Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 12:07:10 -0400

> > > From: spell.yy at verizon.net

> > > To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com

> > > Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Tranie Question

> > >

> > > Hi Camran:

> > >

> > > I see in your original post that you serviced the tranny properly. Got

> > > to ask, did you note the orientation of the filter when putting in the

> > > new one? In other words, no chance you put it together incorrectly?

> > > You did return the torque converter drain plug? You did use the correct

> > > fluid? I know all rather obvious questions but, if one item is done

> > > incorrectly the tranny can start behaving badly. Assuming you feel

> > > confident all of thiss was done correctly, I'd just go ahead with 

> > the an

> > > adjustment to the Bowden cable to see if that clears the late shift 

> > for you.

> > >

> > >

> > > Refer to the manual for your year/model. Should just be a turn or two

> > > in the right direction to get rid of the late shift. Adjusting the

> > > Bowden cable will result in an earlier shift for all gears not just

> > > 3-4. You should be able to find a happy medium that gives you the

> > > pick-up desired and better shift points. You are not describing flaring

> > > so I'd leave the vacuum modulator alone for now. Start with the Bowden

> > > adjustment (3 minute job) and see if the shifting is improved.

> > >

> > > Regards,

> > >

> > > Dick

> > >

> > > Camran Nassiri wrote:

> > > > RPH- I have checked and re-checked the fluid level and it is right on

> > > > the second line. However, as I drive the car it seems like it dosen't

> > > > want to change gears unless I let off the gas; especially the last

> > > > gear. Getting on the freeway the other day I was at 75 MPH and let

> > > > off the gas and that's when it switched to the 4th gear. Is that 

> > normal?

> > > >

> > > > Camran

> > > > 90 560SEC, 91 420SEL

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > 

> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------

> > > > From: R_Hogarth at Foundrycove.com

> > > > To: mbcoupes at mbcoupes.com

> > > > Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2007 20:29:38 -0500

> > > > Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Tranie Question

> > > >

> > > > During a transmission service, the torque converter will never

> > > > completely drain by just letting it sit.

> > > >

> > > > Fluid will always be left below the level of the output shaft spline.

> > > >

> > > > To drain it completely during a transmission service, the

> > > > Tq-Converter either needs to be removed or a hole drilled on the

> > > > outside of the Tq Converter on either side of the seam weld. Once

> > > > drained, the hole is plugged with a self tapping tapered plug.

> > > >

> > > > It’s a lot of work to get the last 1.5 qts of tranny fluid out.

> > > >

> > > > -RPH

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > *From:* mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com

> > > > [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com] *On Behalf Of *Jonathan Hodgman

> > > > *Sent:* Friday, March 30, 2007 3:28 PM

> > > > *To:* Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists

> > > > *Subject:* Re: [W126 Coupe] Tranie Question

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > Don't know, but any transmission builder I've spoken with has

> > > > explained it as mentioned prior, which makes sense. You want to

> > > > check the fluid level with it as close to driving conditions as

> > > > possible. The longer you wait, the more time the converter has to

> > > > drain into the pan which is why you run/drive/cycle the car

> > > > through the gears in the first place.

> > > >

> > > > Perhaps MB doesn't want any sloshing to throw the reading off, ie,

> > > > if fluid wiggles it's way back up the tube some.

> > > >

> > > > When I check the level I re-check it about 3 times @ each try as

> > > > they never come out exactly the same each time. I consider the

> > > > level to be where it consistently comes up to on the stick on both

> > > > sides of the dipstick.

> > > >

> > > > So far so good;-)

> > > >

> > > > Jonathan

> > > >

> > > > On 3/30/07, *Shayegan, Richard* <rishayegan at davidson.edu

> > > > <mailto:rishayegan at davidson.edu>> wrote:

> > > >

> > > > Why does the service manual say to wait 1 to 2 minutes? Not being

> > > > contradictory, just asking.

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > 

> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------

> > > >

> > > > *From:* mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com

> > > > <mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com>

> > > > [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com

> > > > <mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com>] *On Behalf Of

> > > > *Jonathan Hodgman

> > > > *Sent:* Friday, March 30, 2007 1:48 PM

> > > > *To:* Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists

> > > > *Subject:* Re: [W126 Coupe] Tranie Question

> > > >

> > > > I wouldn't do the waiting after having the car in gear. You

> > > > want to check the level as Quickly as possible after running

> > > > the car through all the gears. All waiting does is allow the

> > > > fluid to start draining from the torque converter back into

> > > > the pan, thus giving an inaccurate reading.

> > > >

> > > > Jonathan

> > > >

> > > > On 3/30/07, *Shayegan, Richard* <rishayegan at davidson.edu

> > > > <mailto:rishayegan at davidson.edu>> wrote:

> > > >

> > > > When hot (and I mean hot), it should be just up to the max

> > > > line (mine actually will bleed out to where it's like 75%

> > > > towards the max side in between the two marks if I fill it to

> > > > the max line) if you get it hot, stop, put it in P, wait 2

> > > > seconds, R, wait 2 seconds, N wait, D, wait, and then back

> > > > (again with waiting between shifts), then let it idle for

> > > > 60-120 seconds then check it.

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > If you check it cold (i.e. at shop temperature) with the

> > > > engine running, run it through the gears with a wait between

> > > > shift, it should be slightly below the min-line, IIRC 5mm

> > > > below on the 722.3 transmission.

> > > >

> > > > Richard

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > --

> > > > Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East

> > > > Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Modification.

> > > > Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all

> > > > parts of the world.

> > > > Located in the Greater Atlanta area.

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> > > > http://www.AMGEast.com <http://www.amgeast.com/>

> > > >

> > > > 1996 S600 Euro "Scharnhorst"

> > > > 1991 560 SEC Full Euro ECE

> > > > 1991 560 SEC 226Hp/271ft/lbs:)

> > > > 1989 560 SEC AMG (N.Amer 250/295)

> > > > 1987 560 SEC US Spec

> > > > 1986 560 SEL AMG 6.0L 32V

> > > > 1986 560 SL White on Burgundy

> > > > 1985 500 SEL Euro (Parts Car)

> > > > 1985 300 CD For Sale

> > > > 1980 280 SE Euro

> > > > 1978 300D TMU

> > > > 1987 560 SEL 162K Midnight Blue on Gray RIP:(

> > > > 1987 560 SEC Sold

> > > > 1992 E300D 140K Champagne on Parchment tex (Sold)

> > > > 1990 560 SEC 154K Anthracite on Gray (Sold)

> > > > 1988 300 TE 160K Burgundy on Palomino (Sold)

> > > > 1980 280 SE US 185K (Sold)

> > > > 2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > The MB Coupes Website!

> > > > W126 SEC Mailing List

> > > > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > --

> > > > Blue Ridge Mercedes/AMG East

> > > > Offering Enthusiast Service, Restoration and Modification.

> > > > Providing quality parts to discriminating customers in all parts

> > > > of the world.

> > > > Located in the Greater Atlanta area.

> > > > http://www.blueridgemb.com <http://www.blueridgemb.com/>

> > > > http://www.AMGEast.com <http://www.amgeast.com/>

> > > >

> > > > 1996 S600 Euro "Scharnhorst"

> > > > 1991 560 SEC Full Euro ECE

> > > > 1991 560 SEC 226Hp/271ft/lbs:)

> > > > 1989 560 SEC AMG (N.Amer 250/295)

> > > > 1987 560 SEC US Spec

> > > > 1986 560 SEL AMG 6.0L 32V

> > > > 1986 560 SL White on Burgundy

> > > > 1985 500 SEL Euro (Parts Car)

> > > > 1985 300 CD For Sale

> > > > 1980 280 SE Euro

> > > > 1978 300D TMU

> > > > 1987 560 SEL 162K Midnight Blue on Gray RIP:(

> > > > 1987 560 SEC Sold

> > > > 1992 E300D 140K Champagne on Parchment tex (Sold)

> > > > 1990 560 SEC 154K Anthracite on Gray (Sold)

> > > > 1988 300 TE 160K Burgundy on Palomino (Sold)

> > > > 1980 280 SE US 185K (Sold)

> > > > 2006 Z4 3.0Si M spec 6sp

> > > >

> > > >

> > > > 

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