[W126 Coupe] HELP! Car Salling!!!!!

[David Fatovic]

OK, well that didn't help the cause.  Still have the
same problem, the transmission does not seem to be
engaged easily or stay engaged.  What I find
interesting is that it just started this morning. 
Before the transmission was being engaged just fine,
but it wouldn't keep idle.  Now it still has trouble
keeping idle until the car warms up, and then it will
keep idle, but you can't drive the damn thing.

A side note, the modulator that Dick describes below
is different for Euro model cars.  You don't pop the
cover off to adjust the T shaped adjuster.  This one
has a little knob that is a part of the cap, that you
move.

David

--- Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

> Hi David:
> 
> I would change the transmission fluid including
> torque converter & 
> filter the next chance you get.  Does not make a lot
> of sense to change 
> 6 qts of dirty fluid and leave a dirty qt behind. 
> You end up all over 
> again with a diluted dirty fluid mix with perhaps a
> bit less debris in 
> suspension.
> 
> The transmission modulator is to the driver's side
> and has a single 
> vacuum line (not electrical) coming from it.  There
> is a rubber plug 
> that you can pry off with a small pick to un-cover a
> metal 'Tee' shaped 
> adjustment that nests into pre-cut grooves in the
> modulator housing.  
> Turning this T clockwise increases shift firmness,
> and counter-clock 
> wise softens the shift firmness.  To turn the T you
> first gently pull it 
> free of the groves and then drop it into the next CW
> or CCW position 
> (groove).  My mechanic had always advised me to do
> the adjustment one 
> click at a time.  I had a severe soft shift on a 90
> 300SE and ended up 
> moving the T CW three clicks to finally get it
> right.  So if the shift 
> is soft or non-existent I'd go ahead and move it 2
> clicks the first time 
> to see if that helps a bit.  Leave the cover off
> until you are satisfied 
> with the shifts so you can raise the car up again
> and repeat as needed 
> without having to pry that rubber off each time. 
> There may be some 
> limit to the # of clicks, I do not know.  I think
> (3) is safe where I've 
> done it, not sure how many more will be ok before
> potentially damaging 
> the modulator itself.  My understanding is that the
> modulator is a 
> vacuum pulled rubber diaphragm (which can leak air
> with age) that 
> controls a spring or piston of some sort.  I've
> tested all kinds of 
> devices with a MightyVac including the rubber
> diaphragm on the 
> modulator.  It would be handy if you could find one
> at some point.  
> That's the limit of my knowledge on this subject.
> 
> Where this soft shift problem just cropped up after
> repairing a vacuum 
> leak elsewhere, you may want to experiment to rule
> out the modulator and 
> confirm something else amiss with the tranny.  To do
> this I would remove 
> and plug the vacuum line to the modulator.  Then see
> if a hard shift or 
> good shift is restored to conditions similar to what
> you experienced 
> before making the vacuum repair.  It won't hurt
> anything to try this 
> just expect a hard shift between gears.  If it
> works, hook the line back 
> up and go on to adjust the modulator.  If it does
> not work, . am afraid 
> you are working yet another gremlin that may be the
> tranny having other 
> problems.  The complete fluid change may alleviate
> the condition, maybe not.
> 
> Good luck,
> 
> Dick
> 
> btw:  just remember I started with this list with
> many past and present 
> members back in 2001 and I knew less than nothing
> about MB's.  So, any 
> contribution I make is absolutely the collective
> wisdom of many who 
> answered my questions of the past and I hope the
> future as well.  My 
> mechanic has been very gracious in letting me work
> on 'special projects' 
> in his shop on weekends with his 30 + years of
> knowledge to guide me 
> along the way.  Having fun, just a hobby.  Thanks.
> 
> David Fatovic wrote:
> 
> >I am no expert he says.  Dick, you are one of the
> most
> >knowledgable people on this list.
> >
> >I did have the car at operating temp, I drove the
> car
> >into the garage (which is level) to test the fluid
> >level.  The fluid was the correct redish color,
> with
> >no foam and no burnt smell.  I replaced the fluid
> and
> >filter last year.  Not many miles on it.  My father
> >pretty much drives to the office and back.  I did
> not
> >drain the torque converter as well as the tranny,
> just
> >what comes out when you remove the drainplug and
> the
> >pan.
> >
> >The tranny modulator.  Is that the piece that is
> >connected to the throttle linkage towards the back
> of
> >the engine bay?  It is connected to a wire that has
> a
> >red cover on it?  You can adjust it by loosening
> the
> >screw and moving the two slide plates back and
> forth? 
> >
> >That one?
> >
> >I shall try.
> >
> >David
> >
> >--- Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:
> >
> >  
> >
> >>David:
> >>
> >>Just confirming that before you topped off the
> >>transmission fluid.  You 
> >>warmed up the engine, the car was on level ground,
> >>and you sat in the 
> >>car and placed the shift selector in each of the
> >>gears for a moment or 
> >>two and back to Park before taking the reading? 
> If
> >>not, check the fluid 
> >>level again after doing the above steps.  When was
> >>the last time the 
> >>transmission was serviced?  Was the torque
> converter
> >>fluid drained in 
> >>addition to the main tranny case when the filter
> was
> >>done?  What color 
> >>was the fluid you checked today, was there a burnt
> >>smell to it, was it 
> >>foamy?
> >>
> >>If you corrected a vacuum problem by replacing the
> >>hose, that would 
> >>explain the improved idle.  It could also improve
> >>vacuum pressure to 
> >>other devices like the modulator on the
> >>transmission.  The modulator 
> >>regulates the interval between shifts so you can
> >>smooth out a firm 
> >>shift.  The more you smooth it out the more wear
> you
> >>create on the 
> >>clutch plates and so on because you are extending
> >>the amount of time the 
> >>plates are permitted to slip before fully
> engaging. 
> >>This improved 
> >>vacuum may have resulted in the modulator being
> set
> >>way too smooth from 
> >>the previous poor vacuum levels.  Having said that
> >>and I am no expert, 
> >>I'd start with the transmission fluid level,
> service
> >>done, etc. before 
> >>digging further.  I would not drive the car until
> >>you resolve the 
> >>problem you describe.
> >>
> >>Dick
> >>
> >>David Fatovic wrote:
> >>
> >>    
> >>
> >>>OK, so here is a new twist.  I am starting to
> feel
> >>>like the cartoon character trying to plug the
> hole
> >>>      
> >>>
> >>in
> 
=== message truncated ===