[W126 Coupe] Long term Problem

Wed Feb 15 14:25:51 EST 2006

Hi everyone,

  I will firstly start by saying I agree with those that say if you don't like what you see regarding any particular emails posted, then just either don't read them, or just delete them (free speech and all that). I can't agree more. However, I have had this on-going problem regarding my battery drain for so long now, I have actually been reluctant to post it to the list, as I thought it would have become quite boring and uninteresting for others on the list. I have been emailing privately to other members regarding this problem. But I have changed my mind, as there well could be someone out there on the list that could spot something they might have experienced themselves or spot a clue in my last emails and know the answer, or at least have a few more clues. I haven't had a chance to do some of the suggestions yet, but I welcome any more that could get rid of this problem. Below is a copy of one of my latest emails that some questions and answers myself and Bellamy have been discussing privately regarding this horrible intermittent 6amp current draw I still have.
If you are one of those that are getting bored with my mails on the same subject, then just ignore it, don't read it or just delete it. But I have a feeling there are a large amount of members that might be interested. Hoping so anyway.

Best regards,
Vance.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mister McGoo 
  To: vance.rowley at tiscali.co.uk 
  Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 5:26 AM
  Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Re: battery drain

  Hah.  The plot thickens........

  You said one interesting thing.... when you reconnect the battery, the flashers come on momentarily (and obviously draw current).

  Did your system ever work properly?  Did the alarm system set as it should and did  you ever NOT have the power drain problem?  You mentioned that it has been happening for a few years? Yes, the system most definitely used to work properly. When I lived in Thessaloniki, Greece and I took my vacation (normally two weeks each time) I would park my car in the Hyatt Regency staff car park (the company I was working for at the time) and also arm the alarm/immobiliser. After returning from a 2 week vacation, I would activate the Meta key fob remote to unlock the car and which would also disarm the alarm and immobiliser at the same time. Then you have 15 seconds to start the car, otherwise the immobiliser re-activates. This is normal and when I went to start the car, the engine would turn over as if I had just put a brand new battery on. So obviously, this problem has not always been there. Although it took a long time to find out there was a problem, because if I used the car on a daily basis (which I did a lot) you wouldn't notice any problem.

  I am not familiar with car alarms.  All I know is they usually come "on" by themselves for no reason, in parking lots, in the middle of the day, with nobody within fifty feet of the car.  That is followed shortly by the red-faced owner running across the parking lot to disarm the alarm. Never had a problem in that department. The alarm was not one of those super sensitive ones which could set off with a gust of wind. And I know it works from a genuine time when someone smashed my window and tried to get into what they thought was the glove compartment (marks on the dash) of course this wasn't the glove compartment, it was the passenger airbag system. This as well as a test now and then has proven in the past, this system used to work perfectly.

  BUT.  Many alarm systems that are activated remotely acknowledge that the doors are locked and the alarm is armed by either a tiny "toot" on the horn, and/or the flashers activating once or twice.  Does your alarm system give any signal when you have remotely armed the system? You get an indication that the alarm is armed just by the flashers flashing 4 times and disarmed with just one long flash of the hazards. You arm and disarm the alarm only with the key fob remote. You have the option to just lock the car manually with the key, but leave the alarm disarmed (although the immobiliser will still automatically arm itself regardless whether you arm the alarm or not).

  I suspect that when you re-connect the battery, the alarm system is acknowledging that this device is re-connected (not necessarily armed).  If that is the case, I would suspect that the source of the problem is with the alarm system rather than the hazard flashers. Could be right on that one, but I am left in a very difficult position to prove or disprove that. The alarm and immobiliser still seem to work as they should. I have searched the web for possible problems like this one regarding alarm systems without any luck at all. I have even called the dealer I originally bought the car from, but they don't deal with the company who fitted the alarm system, so no info there either.

  (I have disconnected and re-connected batteries many times and have never had the flashers come "on") I think this is only on mine due to the Meta alarm system, which I think you mentioned before, probably has it's own relay somewhere and is just sort of "booting up" on connection of the battery.

  It is possible that the alarm system is disconnecting itself from time to time (perhaps an internal resetting breaker because of some short in the circuit) and the flashers come "on" when the system re-sets. Very good point, that sounds very plausible, but the car is parked just outside my living room window and I have not noticed the flashers/hazards coming on to point to that possibility. But I suppose there could be some kind of reset happening where maybe it won't effect the hazards, as I have witnessed this 6amp draw come on without the flashers.

  Look at your circuit fuse key under the lid of the fuse box.  It should list a 16 amp fuse for the "Anti-theft Alarm System".  It tells you what other functions it is used for.  (I have the key for the 1986 SEL - it shows "Outside Heated Mirrors" as the only other function for that fuse.) I will check, but as I am not using the factory alarm (at least not normally if at all) then I don't know if that would do any good. But under these circumstances, I will certainly give it a try.

  Also you would have a relay labled "Auxillary Fuse Holder (Anti-theft Alarm System)", a small aluminum (pronounced wrong in America) cube shaped relay likely in socket "K" (left row, front, nearest fuse #11... typically, you must pull it out to see the "K").  You may have to pull that out also to disconnect all power to the alarm system, but I doubt that. There is an auxiliary fuse holder (a small plastic cube with a pull off top) this is to the right of the main fuse box. There is space for just 2 fuses, but these are not installed. Well, one of them was there, but I pulled that one out last week and haven't noticed any difference in the current draw situation, and even more confusing, I haven't noticed anything no longer working without the fuse there.

  THEN see if you still have a power draw.I haven't checked this relay you mentioned, I will look into that one also and let you know of what results I get.

  Your four way flashers and turn signals should still work.

  ALSO: (you likely know this) "MetaSystem" has a website and "Abacus Car Alarms" appears to be a major distributor for the systems in London.  I don't know where you are, but obviously Meta is still very much in business and there should be dealers around who would be happy to answer questions.  It shouldn't matter how old your system is, you're a customer who someday may buy a new system.  And you'll never buy another Meta System if you're not happy with it.  "Meta Alarms" search in Google will bring up a number of sites. I used a different search engine, but not any hits worth while. I will try Google.

  You're right, this is a very peculiar problem, likely not of great interest to many people.  The "off-line" connection was accidential but maybe that's best anyway.  By the way, what IS the year of your SEC? 1991 Euro 560. The full 300HP version. Even though I am in the UK, this is a left hand drive version also. In fact I got it from a left hand drive specialist in London as I was living in Greece at the time where of course they drive on the same side of the road as most other countries do (except here in the UK of course) There is a rumour for the UK to come in line with the rest of Europe to change over to drive on the right instead. So the best idea is to do it over a two week period. The first week, just the industrial vehicles change over, then the second week, all private vehicles change over. :-)

  Hope there is some useful info in this mail.

  Cheers and thanks again.

  Vance.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
    From: "Vance Rowley" <vance.rowley at tiscali.co.uk>
    Reply-To: "Vance Rowley" <vance.rowley at tiscali.co.uk>
    To: "Mister McGoo" <eelploot at hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] Re: battery drain
    Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 02:15:13 -0000

    Bellamy,

      You are absolutely spot on. It sure is pointing to the hazard unit or the upgraded alarm system. I have tried to contact the people who installed the Meta system, but it's so many years ago, I haven't had any luck yet it contacting anyone. (they might be retired by now) :-) 
    To confirm what you have mentioned regarding this situation. The answer is yes. The power drain which I have measured at 6 amp occurs when the car is not running. However, I have also measured this 6amps without the flashers/hazards working. And no, I didn't switch them on manually for any test of any kind. It just so happens if you have the battery disconnected from the car, on initial re-connection, (or placing the meter in circuit to see the current draw) (same thing I know) the hazards will flash for around 4 times, but then go off. Also, I have tried just locking the car with the alarm system off (which you have the option to do). As mentioned before, after this initial hazards flashing on re-connecting the battery (I think around 4 flashes) the current returns to normal at around the 90ma figure. But, while still having the meter in circuit, I have witnessed the flashers/hazards come on, on there own also without touching anything. And I have also seen a 6amp draw without the hazards coming on as mentioned before completely intermittently. It gets more and more confusing.

    I must thank you especially in taking such an interest in this bastard of a problem. But, as you say, I/we will get it eventually.
    Again I didn't bother sending this to the list, as I think they be getting fed up with my post's regarding this battery drain story. Which in a way, I can't blame them, so I don't mean any offence by that comment to the guys on the list, but thanks again for your interest, ideas and input.

    All the best,
    Vance.