[W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues

[Terry Ratliff]

In regard to: "I have cut (2) copies of the manual in recent days one for
another mbcoupe type in Easton, MA and well, a spare.  If you live in the
states and provide an address there is no telling what might show up in the
mail."

 

Terry Ratliff

200 Starcrest Dr #320

Clearwater, Florida 33765

 

Thanks in advance - Terry

http://560SEC.org <http://560sec.org/> 

 

 

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From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com]
On Behalf Of Dick Spellman
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 4:08 PM
To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues

 

Hi Tad:

Yes you need the cd-rom MB manual for the 126 chassis and you need the free
Super Nervig Index that makes navigating the manual fast and easy.  This
group can walk you through any one of the elements you need to fix and I'd
go on to say that when you pull something like the radio it's the right time
to test all of the vacuum elements with that new MightyVac, check the vacuum
switchng valve, replace the fiber node lamp behind their that lights up many
of your switches and more.  So, pick a project and ask away.

I have cut (2) copies of the manual in recent days one for another mbcoupe
type in Easton, MA and well, a spare.  If you live in the states and provide
an address there is no telling what might show up in the mail.

BTW: I run an 83 380SEC and I am sitting on a pristine 500 motor for
transplant because I've done all those inspections I laid out in the earlier
post and I am facing a major repair job with cam shafts and more.  In my
case the 500 motor was a bargain ($1 plus the cost of Acela train and lunch)
and I drove the 500SEL beast 200+ miles from near Philly to Boston where it
sits awaiting my attention.

Other thoughts...the electric heated washer nozzles may be fouled with car
wax.  Just use a fine pin tip to clear each chrome nozzle (2 jets in each).
Clock...if you hear ticking but, it does not keep time, then it's (2)
capacitors from Radio Shack (<$3) to fix.  Still need to investigate why
other portions of the cluster are not operational.  There is a kit for
repairing the odometer gear yourself if needed.  Pretty sure it's the same
company that resells the seat belt arm presenter gears.

Dick

I naturally concur with Bellamy.  These are classics.Tad Heckaman wrote: 

 

On 12/11/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote: 

Tad Heckaman wrote: 

Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 3 when
the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if
thats normal.  

A few other issues...
Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the antenna
to do anything? 
... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new one in?
Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and theres
fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or something. The
pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is almost full. 


Tad:

I cut the other posts to simplify the read.

Oil pressure is just fine as you describe it.  Radio needs to be operational
to operate the antenna.  Radio imposes +12 VDC to the antenna.  Does your 82
have an Antenna switch for mast height in the console?  I'd pull the radio
and check to see if the harness at rear is plugged in and getting power.  If
you choose to keep the original radio there is a source that handles the
Becker head unit and associated amps and fader repairs.  If you choose to
replace with an aftermarket, this list will jump to life with all sorts of
recommendations.


I wouldn't mind keeping the existing radio, kinda looks cool with all the
buttons on it. :)
I assume that to pull the radio I will have to remove some panels? I really
need to get a book on this car. From what it sounds like it has a separate
amp for the speakers... I wouldn't mind bypassing the entire radio and just
attach my ipod directly to the amp. Is that possible? Don't really need the
radio, although I should fix it sometime. I guess the ultimate fix for me
would be a small hidden audio jack somewhere that when plugged in, would
override the radio and allow me to play mp3s directly to the amp. Quality
would be better too. 
Am I way out in left field here with the way I understand how the audio
system works?
 

 

I'd pull the instrument cluster (ic) and check that the harnesses are
plugged in.  Then I'd check the two ground paths directly behind the ic.
The clock is the first and easiest power source to check back there.  It's a
single lead providing continuous +12vdc that attaches to a spade lug on the
clock segment.  Check voltage between this lead and one of the ground
points.  See what you get before working the ic repairs.


Well, I can hear the clock ticking, it just doesnt move very quickly, or at
all.

 

Engine.  If it's still a single chain engine, I'd expect to spend some
serious money doing the dual chain conversion where it is equally likely the
cam shafts and rockers have seen better days.  If on the other hand the dual
chain conversion has been done I'd next inspect the chain rails and tips of
the sprockets.  Look for cracked or chipped rails.  Tips of sprockets should
not have sharp pointed edges, should be smooth with some meat at the tips to
round them out.  Then inspect the cams lobes for galling.  If the cams are
galled the rockers are galled as well (rockers not easily viewed without
light and mirror).  I have wet lapped a few cam lobes and replaced the
respective rockers to eliminate a miss and a tick but, once the metals have
started to go (scoring/galling) you are looking at more machine work or the
need to replace the cams (about $800 each) plus the rockers (short money).
Again, I'd hold up on doing too much until you see the history on that
engine from the dealer.

Still waiting on a reply from the dealer, I am hoping all this has been
done.

 

 

Washer pump, if you pull the pump to inspect the inlet, which may be plugged
with sediment, you will instantly need a new seal/grommet for the reservoir
where the pump is seated.  So, I'd have one or two (headlamp washer line if
equipped) ready when you do this fix.  You'll need to pull the battery and
that's a good time to repair the batt tray and inspect underneath for
corrosion or damage to the sway bar fitting that sits under the tray.  New
tray is <$20US.

Worse case, is replace the engine with a 500 motor for more horse power (380
US is sadly lacking (160+- hp)) and get a longer lasting motor with less
dollars outlay if you do the swap to a 500 (US 184 hp) IMHO.  Preference on
a 500 is the euro spec (240hp) if you can find one.


How much does one of those engines cost normally? I assume its higher than
rebuilding/fixing up the old engine. But then, I would get more HP, which
cant hurt anything but gas mileage. :) 

 

-\Dick


The MB Coupes Website!
W126 SEC Mailing List
Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.




-- 
Tad Heckaman 

 





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The MB Coupes Website!
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