[W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues

[Tad Heckaman]

On 12/11/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

>

>  Tad Heckaman wrote:

>

> Replys below...

>

> On 12/9/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

> >

> > Tad Heckaman wrote:

> >

> > I just purchased a 1982 380SEC, and it runs great. There are a few

> > little issues that I'd like to get fix.

> >

> > The first thing is the locks. I know they are vacuum based, but other

> > than that I dont know much. Basically what happens is that when I lock the

> > drivers door, either with the key or the lock itself, I hear the pump run,

> > and all they all lock, but then the passenger/trunk/fuel unlock, and then

> > they all lock. It never actually stops doing that (it did it for about 10

> > time before I decided enough was enough and pulled the drivers side lock

> > back up to stop the endless lock/unlock cycle). Now this car did have a dead

> > battery for a while, so perhaps some sensor needs to be reset? I am not

> > sure.*   You'll need to read up on the simple 3-wire vacuum pump on your

> > 82 SEC in the MB manual.  Pull the fuse for now from the engine compartment

> > fuse box so you do not burn out that expensive pump in the trunk spare tire

> > well.  Pick up a Mighty Vac ($30) and start with the vac line at the pump

> > and work your way forward from trunk lid to gas cap to passenger door to

> > driver's door to see if there is a slow leak or a break in the vac line.

> > I've seen many breaks at the point where the line passes through the door

> > hing rubber seal.  Don't pump pressure above 10 inches on the Mighy Vac when

> > testing*

> >

> >

> Purchased a mighty vac today, I will test the vacuum in the next few days.

> I didnt pull the fuse, I unplugged the pump in the back. Is that bad or

> should I go ahead and pull the fuse as well?   *So long as the pump is not

> powered you are all set.*

>

>

Great.

The car idles low, and lags roughly for a second before the car accelerates.

> > While idling, it also surges, almost like its idling so low than it revs

> > itself to keep it from stalling. The previous owner said that the injectors

> > were dirty from sitting for so long (probably sat for a year or 2, then he

> > drove it everyday to work for a few months and then parked it again). He

> > took it to our local MB dealership and also to a regular car shop and they

> > said that it just needs to be run, with some injector cleaner in it. They

> > recommended that if its 'working' then dont touch the injection system. Is

> > that all that it really needs, or should I take it in myself and have it

> > checked? Is there anything I can check myself?  *Well, you can start

> > with 1 can of BG-44K  ($30 or less at MB dealer) and see if the performance

> > improves.  If not, take it back the the MB dealership for a proepr run

> > through or you will have to become somewhat expert in short order to do all

> > that is required to diagnose and fix the engine and it's systems yourself.

> > *

> >

> >

> I have already put a standard bottle of injector cleaner (Tekron brand I

> think). This morning its not doing the lag when revving the engine, so it

> already seems to be improving. The engine will start doing the surging after

> about 2-3 min of running from a cold-start, but it doesn't seem as bad.

> Whats the idle rpm supposed to be? Perhaps its too low?  *Park or Neutral

> and coolant temp <42 C 750 rpm minimium; >42 C 500 rpm minimum for 116 81/82

> 380 US.*

>

>

Thats what I am seeing for my RPMs, hopefully it will clear up on its own.

A gas gauge does not work, where should I look first to fix that (makes me

> > worry that I will run out of gas at some point)

> > The radio/antenna does not work (I really want to replace the radio with

> > something more modern, and if I want to upgrade in the future, having a

> > working antenna would be nice)

> > The sunroof sometimes works (prev owner stated that alot of the

> > electrical problems are just caused by poor contacts on the switches, and

> > opening the dash and cleaning up the contacts on the switches would help)

> > (hah) *Start by ordering up a complete fuse replacement kit ($10) and

> > replace every fuse in the fuse box.  See what is then fixed and report

> > back.  I would not dive into much of anything until the fuses are replaced.

> > *

> >

> >  Just replaced all the fuses, nearly ran autozone out of those types of

> fuses. Should I find a fuse replacement kit and do it with those, or did I

> effectively do the same thing by buying standard fuses? *Copper tipped

> fuses replaced every 10 years of the correct value and you should be all

> set.  Clean any fuse holders that were pitted or burnt with a qtip and

> sandpaper.*

>  Fuel gauge doesnt seem to be working yet either. Where is that sensor

> located? I suspect the car sat without fuel in the tank for a period of

> time, and perhaps the sensor rusted or froze up.  *The sender is in the

> fuel tank behind the rear bucket seat driver's side.  Probably need a new

> sender and seal if as you say the car was let to sit with anything less than

> a full tank of fuel.*

>

> I guess I will have to get in there and take a look at it.



Odometer does not work, title already states that its 'not actual', but can

> > I get that fixed?  *Fuses first and yes the speedo can be repaired if

> > needed.*

> >

> >   Since I have never had a MB before, this will be a great way for me to

> > get familiar with how these cars are put together. I just replaced a few

> > lights and the sealed beams (cant wait for euro lights later on, what a PAIN

> > to replace those sealed beams), so now I can get it registered and on the

> > road.  *I'd suggest you have someone confirm that the timing chain on

> > the 380 motor has been converted to a dual chain before spending any $ on

> > the SEC.  You need to get a copy of the MB Cd-Rom for service on your SEC

> > ($20-40 as a guess). *

> >

> >

> I emailed the local MB dealership, where it was supposedly taken regularly

> for all its maintenance. Would the dealership automatically upgrade it to

> dual chain if they replaced the timing chain?  I'd sure hope so!  The

> engine is junk if it's not dual chain.  And then try and obtain the mileage

> on the dual row chain, tensioners and guide rails since it was last done.

> See what the dealership says.

>

> If its not, can I still get it converted to dual chain? Or is that too

costly/not possible?




Thanks for any replies!

> > --

> > Tad Heckaman

> >

> > *Comments highlighted.  Good luck.  Dick*

> > ------------------------------

> >

> > The MB Coupes Website!

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> >

> >

> > The MB Coupes Website!

> > W126 SEC Mailing List

> > Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

> >

> >  Replys are inline, thanks for the replys!

>

>

> --

> Tad Heckaman

>

> ------------------------------

>

> The MB Coupes Website!

> W126 SEC Mailing List

> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

>  You mention odometer not working.  Does everything else on the instrument

> cluster work except fuel guage?  Clock, tach, speedo all okay???

>


Clock, fuel gauge, and odometer does not work. Oil pressure goes past 3 when
the engine is revving but it otherwise stays in the middle, not sure if
thats normal.

A few other issues...
Antenna does not work, does the radio need to be operational for the antenna
to do anything?
... Radio does not work, where should I start looking to put a new one in?
Windshield washer fluid is not coming out. I hear it running, and theres
fluid in the tube but its not moving. I assume its clogged or something. The
pump sounds like its running dry, although the tank is almost full.

Thanks for the replys.




-\Dick

>

> The MB Coupes Website!

> W126 SEC Mailing List

> Postings remain property of MB Coupes, L.L.C.

>

>



-- 
Tad Heckaman
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