[W126 Coupe] 1982 380SEC various issues

[Tad Heckaman]

Replys below...

On 12/9/06, Dick Spellman <spell.yy at verizon.net> wrote:

>

>  Tad Heckaman wrote:

>

> I just purchased a 1982 380SEC, and it runs great. There are a few little

> issues that I'd like to get fix.

>

> The first thing is the locks. I know they are vacuum based, but other than

> that I dont know much. Basically what happens is that when I lock the

> drivers door, either with the key or the lock itself, I hear the pump run,

> and all they all lock, but then the passenger/trunk/fuel unlock, and then

> they all lock. It never actually stops doing that (it did it for about 10

> time before I decided enough was enough and pulled the drivers side lock

> back up to stop the endless lock/unlock cycle). Now this car did have a dead

> battery for a while, so perhaps some sensor needs to be reset? I am not

> sure.  * You'll need to read up on the simple 3-wire vacuum pump on your

> 82 SEC in the MB manual.  Pull the fuse for now from the engine compartment

> fuse box so you do not burn out that expensive pump in the trunk spare tire

> well.  Pick up a Mighty Vac ($30) and start with the vac line at the pump

> and work your way forward from trunk lid to gas cap to passenger door to

> driver's door to see if there is a slow leak or a break in the vac line.

> I've seen many breaks at the point where the line passes through the door

> hing rubber seal.  Don't pump pressure above 10 inches on the Mighy Vac when

> testing*

>

>

Purchased a mighty vac today, I will test the vacuum in the next few days. I
didnt pull the fuse, I unplugged the pump in the back. Is that bad or should
I go ahead and pull the fuse as well?

The car idles low, and lags roughly for a second before the car accelerates.

> While idling, it also surges, almost like its idling so low than it revs

> itself to keep it from stalling. The previous owner said that the injectors

> were dirty from sitting for so long (probably sat for a year or 2, then he

> drove it everyday to work for a few months and then parked it again). He

> took it to our local MB dealership and also to a regular car shop and they

> said that it just needs to be run, with some injector cleaner in it. They

> recommended that if its 'working' then dont touch the injection system. Is

> that all that it really needs, or should I take it in myself and have it

> checked? Is there anything I can check myself?  *Well, you can start with

> 1 can of BG-44K  ($30 or less at MB dealer) and see if the performance

> improves.  If not, take it back the the MB dealership for a proepr run

> through or you will have to become somewhat expert in short order to do all

> that is required to diagnose and fix the engine and it's systems yourself.

> *

>

>

I have already put a standard bottle of injector cleaner (Tekron brand I
think). This morning its not doing the lag when revving the engine, so it
already seems to be improving. The engine will start doing the surging after
about 2-3 min of running from a cold-start, but it doesn't seem as bad.
Whats the idle rpm supposed to be? Perhaps its too low?


A gas gauge does not work, where should I look first to fix that (makes me

> worry that I will run out of gas at some point)

> The radio/antenna does not work (I really want to replace the radio with

> something more modern, and if I want to upgrade in the future, having a

> working antenna would be nice)

> The sunroof sometimes works (prev owner stated that alot of the electrical

> problems are just caused by poor contacts on the switches, and opening the

> dash and cleaning up the contacts on the switches would help) (hah) *Start

> by ordering up a complete fuse replacement kit ($10) and replace every fuse

> in the fuse box.  See what is then fixed and report back.  I would not dive

> into much of anything until the fuses are replaced.*

>

> Just replaced all the fuses, nearly ran autozone out of those types of

fuses. Should I find a fuse replacement kit and do it with those, or did I
effectively do the same thing by buying standard fuses?
 Fuel gauge doesnt seem to be working yet either. Where is that sensor
located? I suspect the car sat without fuel in the tank for a period of
time, and perhaps the sensor rusted or froze up.

Odometer does not work, title already states that its 'not actual', but can

> I get that fixed?  *Fuses first and yes the speedo can be repaired if

> needed.*

>

> Since I have never had a MB before, this will be a great way for me to get

> familiar with how these cars are put together. I just replaced a few lights

> and the sealed beams (cant wait for euro lights later on, what a PAIN to

> replace those sealed beams), so now I can get it registered and on the

> road.  *I'd suggest you have someone confirm that the timing chain on the

> 380 motor has been converted to a dual chain before spending any $ on the

> SEC.  You need to get a copy of the MB Cd-Rom for service on your SEC

> ($20-40 as a guess). *

>

>

I emailed the local MB dealership, where it was supposedly taken regularly
for all its maintenance. Would the dealership automatically upgrade it to
dual chain if they replaced the timing chain?

Thanks for any replies!

> --

> Tad Heckaman

>

> *Comments highlighted.  Good luck.  Dick*

> ------------------------------

>

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>

>

> The MB Coupes Website!

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>

> Replys are inline, thanks for the replys!



-- 
Tad Heckaman
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