[W126 Coupe] oil additives

[Mercedes]

Who makes M1?

Ronny
1987 560 SEC
1984 300 SD
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dick Spellman 
  To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists 
  Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 6:42 AM
  Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] oil additives


  I agree that where Mercedes only recommends M1 in two viscosities for our engines (5-30 and 15-50) that it works well and is a good alternative to dino if your engine does not already consume high volumes of oil between changes.

  I have never been able to get 7500 between change intervals using M1 because the in-line 6 (300SE's) run at higher rpms and start to drink oil at about 3-5000 miles where the cost of adding 2 quarts at $5 each every 2000 miles thereafter just does not equate to a savings.  So, I generally do M1 and filters at 5000 miles and no obvious consumption occurs prior to reaching this mileage.

  One other point.  On the first two M1 changes if you are converting from dino you will consume some higher amount of M1. Thereafter, it seems the engine's M1 consumption will level off and more miles can be driven before seeing a change on the dipstick.

  Again, I mention that Mercedes ONLY recommends M1 with the 2 viscosities referenced above and DOES NOT recommend any other synthetic currently available in the U.S market.  Per my readings of another list it is clear that there are major differences in the chemistry and additives packaged with different mfg's of synthetics and that MB has concluded that only the M1 brand and viscosities 5-30 and 15-50 should be used.

  Just my 2 cents.

  Dick

  I have no reference to the MB V-8 usage where I change once a year to remove acids before storage and driving mileage is well below the change interval to see any use of M1 at all.
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Shayegan, Richard 
    To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists 
    Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 9:09 AM
    Subject: RE: [W126 Coupe] oil additives


    There is no way for synthetic to be bad for an engine, though it can be a PITA. If your engine leaks or burns conventional oil, it will leak or burn more with synthetic, but if it doesn't leak or burn conventional at all, then it won't leak or burn synthetic. I'm guessing with 54,000 miles it's not leaking or burning. From what I hear Mobil 1 is very good, and anything comparable (like Amsoil) comes down to just personal opinion.

    Richard




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    From: mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com [mailto:mbcoupes-bounces at mbcoupes.com] On Behalf Of Ken Cribbs
    Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2005 7:40 AM
    To: Mercedes Coupes Mailing Lists
    Subject: Re: [W126 Coupe] oil additives



    My '88 560 SEC has only 54K (54,000) miles, all in Hawaii's warm weather climate, and its engine runs beautifully.  At its last oil change (at 52K miles) the mechanic switched to Mobil One synthetic.

    Another mechanic friend agrees with using synthetic oil, but recommends Synergen instead of Mobil One.  Another mechanic friend says synthetic oils are bad for pre-1996 Benz engines and recommends that I should go back to non-synthetic Castrol.

    All suggestions are appreciated!

    Aloha,
    --KC



    At 12:55 AM 8/27/2005, you wrote:



    oil additives... what is the consensus yes or no 
       
    I say definitely NO. Miracle slick-ums are usually one or another type of SALT, which bonds to the metal tenaciously, other than the teflon crap which is a cup of very fine hard plastic flour. BTW, Dupont prohibits the sale of brand name Teflon to any company intending to sell it as oil additive. SOme of the Miracle slick-ums really do work as advertised, but they are  not used by the oil companies because of the potential for corrosion, and some of them say change the oil "at recommended intervals" because any buildup of moisture is VERY BAD with the salt bonded to the metal. Ford indicted one of the miracle lubes on their diesels, they sliced a block up into thin pieces trying to discover why they were perforating between oil and water passageways, expecting to find it was corrosion from the water jacket, but it was actually corrosion from the pil passages into the water jacket.
     
    You don't want anything with any salt in an aluminum engine. Straight dino oil has these engines lasting 300,000 with no ring wear, what would you want to use additives for anyway?
     
    Nathan



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