[W126 Coupe] SEC Starting Failure After a Massive Downpour
a figment of the imagination
figstir at yahoo.com
Mon Aug 15 12:37:17 EDT 2005
Hi!
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I replaced the fuel filter and re-installed the entire
fuel pump system under the car. I think I truly
wasted my time and money here because the fuel filter
was putting out good clean flow and the pump worked
fine and dandy. I'm glad I didn't buy the $180 fuel
pump!
However, as it so clearly points out, the car did not
start after this.
In today's rain, I noticed that water may have gotten
into the ignition control module. The rubber black
cap to the green wire that goes under the the dizzy
cap unit is cracked. However, I think all the
shielding to the wire is fine, but it is possible
some water/moisture may have somehow entered in some
paranormal way no matter how highly doubtful it seems.
1) I'll go ahead and replace the ignition coil cable
to the dizzy cap center terminal and check the green
wire and see if this works. I have an old coil as
well and old ignition control module (pretty
expensive, I'll say!!!!) from a previous benz. [My
current car is a '82 380 SEC (old but sweet!) with an
interior that's been upgraded to '90 560 SEC and a
valve job that I did for $85!!!, including camshafts
and rocker arms.]
Unfortunately, I simply don't know how to test the
ignition coil cable without getting electrocuted.
I've been electrocuted enough times to know that it
hurts (my heart, too!). I'm thinking of just placing
my Fluke meter across the contact leads to the coil
(the terminals with the phillips head screws that sit
on top of the frame on the engine belly). I've heard
about people doing crazy stuff like jamming
screwdrivers/pliers into the distal terminal of the
ignition cable and putting it against the valve cover
caps or distibutor, but I think that it's a tad bit
frightening just to create an arc to test these
contacts. However, I don't know how else to test
this without doing a "blind" replacement of the
cable/coil/module or checking the
resistance/continuity of the cable. Can someone help,
please?
Regarding the Bosch platinum spark plugs, I use the
old ones (platinum 2's???, they have the single point
but are simply platinum metal). I have stayed clear
of the platinum 4's because, first of all, I think it
is an absolute gimmick that makes no sense from an
electrical stand-point!!! The added effect must be
close to nil.). Many import part stores in SoCAL
recommended Bosch platinum, so I've stuck with them
since. I did not know that they are not recommended
by MBZ, but this may only apply to the Plat. 4's.
Where can I read about this information?
2) I'll check the relay under the fuse box. That's a
pricey relay at ~$400+ (if I remember correctly), but
perhaps it got a little loose or wet and can be
re-seated.
Anyways, right now I'm left trying to figure out how
to test my ignition coil cable without getting
electrocuted. Any clever tricks?
Thanks again.
-figstir
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