[LargeFormat] Bellows Repair

[Clive Warren]

At 1:07 pm -0700 20/5/02, Les Newcomer wrote:
>  > From: Clive Warren
>  > Reply-To: largeformat@f32.net
>  > Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 13:35:29 +0100
>  >
>>  Have just read an interesting article on bellows repair that suggests the
>>  use of a concoction based on a glue called "Elmer's Glue" together with
>>  some detergent and lampblack.  I have never seen Elmer's glue in the UK -
>>  is there an equivalent glue that anyone knows about, or perhaps if you have
>>  some of this wonder glue sitting around you could post the ingredients so I
>>  can find an equivalent here in England.
>>
>  > I have a feeling that this is the same white glue that I have used in the
>  > past for papier mache......
>common white alphitic(sp?) glue. The Elmer's 'school" glue is washable so I
>don't recommend that. Similar in feel to yellow wood workers' glue, which is
>used to glue woodworkers together, but the directions say for them to be
>clamped up for an hour.
>
>yes I would say it's identical to paper ma chay glue, but never used it that
>way. Maybe that's why all those school projects fell apart?
>
>les
>
>Haven't a clue what the detergent does in concoction

That sounds like the stuff - probably PVA glue which is available 
here - white and water soluble. The chap who posted the tip reckons 
that you shouldn't do underwater shots after treating the bellows - 
puts a lot of your shoots out of the running Les ;-)

The addition of detergent (dish washing-up liquid) is to break the 
surface tension and allow the mixture to soak into the bellows 
material rather than sitting on top of it.

There were a number of comparisons to use of silicon preparations 
mixed with dyes. Apparently the silicon makes it difficult to 
compress the bellows to their original depth after treatment so the 
Elemer's glue formula is claimed to be superior.

I found the tip on Bob Monaghan's excellent medium format web site: 
http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronbelfix.html

Marvin H. Olsen says:

>1 teaspoon Elmer's glue
>2 small drops liquid dish detergent
>2 small drops black lampblack or shoe dye
>
>When the coating chips or flakes off the bellows, almost always in 
>the corners, you will have a negative ruining light leak. Typically 
>the fabric is intact, it is just that it's lost its opacity. Issue 
>77 of Brand X (The Camera Shopper), has an article that goes on at 
>length about using black rubber cement, and thinning it down. Most 
>of the article deals with the problems inherent in this method. My 
>solution: Take some Elmer's glue, thin it somewhat with soapy water, 
>and add black dye. Alcohol base leather dye works; I am guessing 
>that water based would too. Why the soap? So the mixture penetrates 
>the fabric, and does not bead up on the surface.
>
>With the camera bellows extended, paint the inside of the bellows; 
>usually just the corners, for this is where the wear occurs. 
>Carefully fold the camera so that the mixture is squished into the 
>folds and corners of the bellows. Pickup the excess mixture with a 
>damp towel, Q-Tips, whatever you are comfortable with. Then extend 
>the bellows again and let it dry.
>
>DO NOT, upon pain of death at the hands of the Great Camera God, let 
>the camera dry with the bellows folded up. Elmer's Glue remains more 
>flexible than you realize. After the bellows dries, the bellows 
>again should be flexible, it should fold OK, it should not leak 
>light. I have also been known to feed either fabric or leather 
>bellows with Pledge Wax, to help maintain softness, and flexibility. 
>I tried the rubber cement route, and the stuff is God-Awful 
>unforgiving, while Elmer's/soapy water/black dye is not. Elmer's is 
>not totally water resistant, so don't take your camera swimming 
>after this procedure.


Cheers,
        Clive